DIY Healing Concealer

I’ve always thought concealer was a great big Catch 22. You start with an angry clogged pore that turns into a zit. So you cover it it up with some fleshy coloured goo (though let’s be honest, you aren’t fooling anyone within 2 meters of you). Said fleshy coloured goo clogs even more pores, and on it goes. A never ending zit parade, probably designed by the makers of concealer so you can never stop buying it.

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The last time I was in Sephora I noticed funny little pots of distinctly non-face coloured goop. That you were supposed to put on your face. It came in a selection of pastels, including minty pink, lavenderish purple, and some sickly looking yellows and oranges. As a designer I figured these were either a) very boring face paints or b) some sort of opposite-colour correcting device type thingy.

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It turns out it was b. I didn’t really think much of it until I saw the greeny one that looks like choc-mint ice cream (without the chips, obviously) used in the first bit of this video. Up until this I would have guessed that you would be left looking like Elphaba or the Grinch who stole Christmas. Guess not.

So I thought I would take the idea and apply it to concealer. But I didn’t stop with colour correction. I also wanted no pore clogging and lots of healing power.

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Now, I’ve tried concealer before. Or, at least I should say I’ve tried to make concealer before. I made it as a lotion, and it was sort of ok at first… and then it drastically changed colour after a week, which was pretty suspicious (in addition to making it useless), so I tossed it. This time, after making my a bunch of different lipsticks, I thought I’d go entirely oil-based.

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So: I selected rosehip oil and sea buckthorn oil for their supposedly legendary anti-acne wonders, and vitamin E for its general awesomeness in helping the skin heal. I thickened the whole mixture with some beeswax, cocoa butter, and capuacu butter.

For the colorants, the first step was making it opaque with some oil-soluble titanium dioxide.

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Then, I added some multani mitti and zeolite clays (feel free to use any clay that sort of matches your skin tone) for some starting colour and the awesome healing/pulling properties of clay. From there I used a mixture of oxides to get it the rest of the way to my skin tone. I then divided the mixture, and added a hint of green to one part, giving me an anti-red concealer, and a plain, skin-coloured concealer.

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The resulting concealer is exactly my skin tone, and works beautifully. I am so very thrilled with myself.

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DIY Healing Concealer

4g beeswax
7g capuacu butter
5g cocoa butter
4g seabuckthorn oil
4g rosehip oil
1g vitamin E
1g magnesium stearate (optional; adds slip)

1 ¼ tsp oil-soluble titanium dioxide
½ tsp sericite mica
1 tsp zeolite ultrafine clay
2 ¼ tsp multani mitti clay

Yellow oxide
Red oxide
Brown oxide
Green oxide

Melt the beeswax, capuacu butter, cocoa butter, seabuckthorn oil, rosehip oil, vitamin E, and magnesium stearate together in a small saucepan over medium low heat.

Remove from the heat and whisk in the titanium dioxide, sericite mica, and clays.

Now it’s time to use oxides to get exactly your skin tone. I found this part to be pretty darn annoying, frankly. Lots of measuring, mixing, blending, stirring, testing, and repeating the entire process. In the end I think I used approximately 1 tsp of yellow oxide, 5 “pinches” of red, and 3 “pinches” of brown. It turns out I didn’t take terribly good notes (sorry!). Anyhow—work slowly, take your time, test and blend away, and you will eventually come out the other end with you-coloured goo.

If you’d like a red cancelling concealer, mix in a bit of green oxide. This recipe makes quite a lot of concealer, so I’d recommend doing what I did, and dividing it up.

See that red zit on my chin? Now you see it...
See that red zit on my chin? Now you see it…
And now you don't! BOOYAH.
And now you don’t! BOOYAH.
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Wondering where I get my ingredients? I get almost everything from New Directions Aromatics (Canada, USA, Aus, & UK) and Saffire Blue!

96 Responses to DIY Healing Concealer

  1. Michelle says:

    This is so neat! I always wondered what exactly was in concealers and foundations and I wasn’t sure if I REALLY wanted that soaking into my skin. Do you find that your face gets oily with this concealer because there are so many butters and oils in it?

    • Marie says:

      Yay! Have you ever visited Skin Deep to check out your concealers and foundations? It’s a fantastic resource for people who are curious about their products :)

      I don’t find this is oily at all. I only apply this to spots and blemishes, not my entire face, though. Sometimes I end up doing my entire chin, but no, it’s not at all greasy, even after several hours. I carefully chose oils and butters that absorb into the skin quickly and smoothly to keep that from happening :)

  2. Loretta says:

    Marie where do you order your tins, bottles etc?. Thanks in advance

  3. Deb King says:

    Have been eagerly awaiting this. Thank you.

  4. Jane says:

    You clever girl!!

  5. Sophia says:

    Is there an alternative for the capuacu butter? I want to make this, but I don’t have capuacu butter. I realize that the consistency may be a bit different, but what butter would you recommend in place of it?

  6. Random Teenage Girl says:

    That’s really cool and all but do you have ideas for concealer out of products that are easier to get? I don’t buy makeup, I receive it from friends and relatives so all I have is eye shadow, mascara, eye liner, lipstick and lip gloss.. I really need/want some because I have really annoying circles under my eyes.. Plus 20,000 freckles

    • Marie says:

      Hey! The thing about making stuff is that you need to start with ingredients… eye shadow is not an ingredient. I’m not sure if you were saying that you wanted to make concealer out of eye shadow, but that’s not really what I do here. To me, that’s sort of like saying “I’d love to make this cake, but all I have is a packet of Twinkies and a box of cookies to make it with.” Anyhow, if you’re looking for ingredients, these ingredients really aren’t that hard to get. Just order them online (I’ve linked my favourite suppliers in the big grey box up above)—you should be able to use a prepaid credit card, a debit credit card, or PayPal hooked up to your bank account to pay if you are too young to have your own credit card. Otherwise, just buy some concealer. Seriously. If your other options are something like mixing face powder with some body butter, just buy the concealer.

  7. Sarah says:

    Wow, I seriously need to make this. It’s so rare for me to leave the house without concealer on somewhere, and I HATE the the only brand that has a shade to match my skin colour (or lack of colour) is CoverGirl’s absolute palest shade from their Aqua Smoothers line. They test on animals, and it’s probably full of crap. I’d almost rather not know just what/how much crap until I find (or make, as it would appear) a replacement :P I’ve seriously tried every other (reasonably priced) brand, including the organic line from Physician’s Formula, which was completely disappointing and not even close to natural looking. I never even thought about making my own, chalking it up to something that would have to be done in a lab setting. Thanks for doing the dirty work! :D

    • Marie says:

      You’re ever so welcome, that’s what I’m here for :) I, too, am SO happy that I will never again have to look at the tiny little packets of fleshy glop in the drug store and try to figure out which one is sort of me-coloured by holding 45 barely discernible different palettes up against my arm (because, of course, they don’t have a mirror so I can’t see them up against my face). I can’t believe they haven’t just come up with a concealer that does its job without the colour mattering at all.

  8. Janelle Grimes says:

    Hi there,
    I stumbled upon your site and I am loving it! I have a question for you. Where did you get your french press? Is it the same thing as a grain mill?
    Thanks for all of the info!
    Janelle

    • Marie says:

      Hey Janelle! I don’t use a French Press in any of my recipes, so I’m not really sure what you’re asking about. I got my coffee grinder on Kijiji, though.

      • Janelle Grimes says:

        I would like to make some of my own essential oils.
        would a coffee grinder work? Thanks, Janelle

        • Marie says:

          Essential oils are made using a distiller. I’ve read into it, and you won’t need a coffee grinder. You will need tons of raw plant material to yield much essential oil, and a distiller. There’s a video on it here :) I’ve never tried it myself, but it’s on my list. Good luck!

  9. cherryblossom says:

    This is awesome, thanks so much! One question…
    Do you think this would work as a super concentrated foundation (i.e. put it on problem areas and sort of lightly spread across the whole face)? I’ve been using rms beauty’s uncover up and this recipe reminded me of that…
    Thanks again x

  10. Jessica says:

    Hi Marie, what size tins did you use and how many tins did you end up filling?

  11. Jessica says:

    Hello Marie,

    Are you sure you are measuring in grams?

    I have almost the exact same skin tone to yours so I followed your recipe, measuring everything the way you have listed, and I did not come up with a lot of concealer. I came up with a tiny bit. And also, with your iron oxide measurements, my concealer came to be very very dark brown and I feel that it is probably due to my super small amount of concealer that was made prior to adding them.

    • Jessica says:

      It also came out very grainy, and I bought everything from the places you recommend.

      • Marie says:

        Hmm. The two major culprits with grit are usually clay or something insoluble. What did you use instead of zeolite clay? I’m guessing you had to substitute since NDA discontinued it. I’ve accidentally added a clay that was a bit too gritty to something and ended up with a final product that was more of an exfoliating cream than anything else :P Otherwise, if you used water soluble titanium dioxide instead of oil soluble that might be it. One final idea is that the magnesium stearate didn’t melt completely when you were melting the oils (though I doubt it, that’d be hard to miss). Could any of those be it?

    • Marie says:

      Yes, I’m super-duper sure I used grams. You can kind of double check it by adding up the grams in the ingredients (26g + the powders), and comparing that to my final yield—about 40mL (~1.3 x 1oz containers). 26g of water would mean 26mL of final product, but because oils are less dense than water, 26g of oils will be more than 26mL, meaning that ~40mL makes sense as a final yield, especially with the powders and oxides added in. How much did you end up with? Did you use an electric scale that measures in grams to weigh out your ingredients? I’d love to hear more about your process so we can get to the bottom of this!

      As for using oxides, I always recommend working up to it and testing as you go (as noted in the recipe… it’s a pain in the arse, but worth it in the end). Photos can be deceptive depending on lighting & white balance, and oxides can vary in colour from batch to batch. Also, I’m not entirely convinced of the accuracy of most sets of teaspoons/quarter teaspoons/etc. as the margin of error for things like baking soda in a cookie recipe (which is what they’re designed for) is quite a bit larger than for something like this. So, yeah… testing, sadly.

      As for what you’ve got made up already—you can always just dilute it with more of the oils mixture! Just melt up some more separately, and re-melt your final concealer in another container, and slowly add more oils, stirring and testing on your skin, until you get something that works.

      • Jessica says:

        Yes,

        I used a kitchen scale in grams. And I used a very small glass bowl, maybe only enough to hold half a cup of water, and it barely filled the bottom after I mixed it all up. It would probably be enough to fill a one ounce tin but when I read the instructions and it said “a lot” I didn’t attribute it to being a lot since I could barely get it off the bottom of the bowl haha. So I thought there might have been a difference between our grams.

        • Marie says:

          Ah, sounds like my use of “a lot” threw you off… I was using the term relative to how long it’ll take me to use all that concealer (ages, truly, it’s quite concentrated), not it terms of ice cream or something else :P But it does sound like you’re on the right track & if you either dilute your current one, or start over and go slowly with the oxides you’ll have yourself an ounce or so of awesome natural concealer!

  12. Joanna says:

    Thanks for the the step-by-step! I just ordered all the supplies and can’t wait for them to get to me so I can start. I really need a concealer for my dark circles… Would you say that this concealer is or can be high coverage? :) Also, I bought kokum butter instead of cocoa, so i hope that will be ok.

    • Marie says:

      Exciting! I love waiting for an order of new goodies to arrive :D

      If you want to use this over a larger area I would recommend dropping the amount of beeswax to 2 or 3g, rather than using the full 4g, to make it easier to apply (especially to the delicate skin under the eyes). As it is, it’s quite thick—good for stacking over a zit, but I imagine it wouldn’t work as well on that thin skin. That said, the coverage really is fantastic!

      I haven’t ever used kokum butter (just got some in the mail last weekend & I can’t wait to play with it!), but from everything I’ve read & heard from readers, it should be a perfectly fine substitute.

      Enjoy & let me know how it goes!

  13. Danni says:

    Thank you for the recipe for the concealer. I tried (my own version) and I love it! I can’t use Vitamin E , it breaks me out, and I don’t have capuacu butter. I used Horsetail butter because it is great on my skin and is naturally green. Also I did not have rosehip oil, but substituted golden jojoba. I like the idea being able to add my own color. In the stores the makeup is always too red for my skin so I cut down on the red in this recipe and the color turned out perfect. I am soooo happy. I used to spend $25 for a small tube of concealer at Sephora. Now I can make my own and I know whats in it! Not to mention I’m probably saving gobs of money.

    • Marie says:

      Fantastic! I just love hearing from people who’ve actually made my recipes, especially something that’s a bit more complicated like this one :) Publishing a recipe is kind of stressful—it worked for me, fingers crossed my notes were good enough that it’ll work for somebody else. And it does! YAY! It sounds like your substitutions worked out really well, and three cheers for being able to make the colour exactly what you need it to be :) And best of all, we will eventually never need to go to Sephora again, and spend all the money we’d spend on mascara and stuff on big buckets of clay & bottles of lovely oils :D Thanks so much for DIYing with me!

  14. Jessica says:

    Hello Marie,

    Making the concealer was now a success after blending the powders in my grinder. I think the culprit was the multani mitti clay, that I may have added too much, which made it so dark. However, I think my final coloring with the oxides is a little too warm for me. It’s almost perfect but too warm. Is there something I can add to make it more cool toned?

    • Marie says:

      Fantastic! I’m so glad we got to the bottom of this :) A wee bit of blue oxide should cool it down in the meantime, but in the future, you might choose a clay other than multani mitti, which is quite a warm coloured clay, and look at something like Australian Ivory, which has less yellow in it.

  15. Bekah says:

    Hi Marie! I can’t wait to try this! I am trying to order all the ingredients I need. As you said, NDA no longer carries the Zeolite Clay. Do you have a recommendation for something comparable in both color and consistency? I don’t want to veer too far off your recipe since I don’t want to waste any ingredients or money! :) I need a lot of coverage and most concealers I would actually like to be thicker, so I hope this one will be a good thickness. Thanks for all your awesome recipes!

    • Marie says:

      Yes, sadly—I do miss that lovely clay (though I did also order something like 3kg when they announced it was being discontinued lol, so I shouldn’t run out for a while…). Depending on your skin tone Australian Ivory or Australian Beige should work fairly well. You may want to run it through your DIY coffee grinder to ensure it’s nice and smooth, though.

      This concealer is definitely really thick—I think I will use a wee bit less wax in my next batch as Canadian winter temps have made mine a bit harder/thicker than I like lol. Thanks for reading & DIYing with me!

  16. linda says:

    hi. your recipes sound great but still a little too complicated for me as i’m just starting to make body & skincare products. do you sell your products anywhere? if not then please do. :)

    • Marie says:

      Hi Linda! Unfortunately I simply do not have the time to make and sell my products. That, and being located in Canada shipping would be quite steep, and most of my potential customers are international, so I imagine most people would change their minds pretty quickly when shipping was added in. However, I do have a “DIY for beginners” article coming out soon that includes guidelines to ease you into DIY projects so you can start whipping up projects like this in no time :) The article comes out on January 18th.

  17. Tammy says:

    I am loving your website!
    What is the shelf life for your concealers, lipbalm and lipstick?
    I am wanting to make hemp base products, do you have any tips?

    • Marie says:

      Anything that doesn’t have any water in it (totally oil based, like lip balm, body butter, etc.) will last quite a long time—I’ve got a batch of body butter that’s about 3 years old that’s still fine :P Once you add water into the mix, that life span shortens considerably. There’s loads of variables (freshness of ingredients, cleanliness of instruments, temperature, etc.), but I’ve seen things spoil around 3 weeks, or even up to 6 months. You’ll just have to watch them for mould, colour changes, etc. and toss ‘em when they start to go dodgy on you.

      As for hemp, my experiments with it are limited so far (just got my first bottle a month ago), but so far I can say that it’s definitely sensitive to heat. In the process of trying to melt in some carnauba wax with it, I torched the hemp oil, and now it smells and tastes awful! :P

  18. Heather says:

    I love this! You should have kept the minty green one too though, as a corrector.
    As a professional makeup artist, you had me screaming “you were onto something!! Noooooo!” Green corrects the redness in the coloring of the face, and oranges correct the blue veins. Use those under your concealer and you have a full awesome natural base to paint your face onto! :) Dooooo it!

    • Marie says:

      I never had the minty green one, I just saw it in the shop. I did make my own, though—it’s right up there in the photos :) I just added a bit of green to a bit of the batch (you can see the photo where I’m doing that), so I have one concealer that’s just skin toned, and one that appears perfectly skin toned after cancelling out red. It’s awesome! Thanks for clearing up what the orange one is for, though—I don’t have veins like that so I had no clue what the blue cancelling was for :P

  19. Vash says:

    Could I use zinc oxide instead of titanium dioxide? Also, where do you get your red oxide from? Thanks!

    • Marie says:

      I haven’t tried it. The reason I’ve used oil soluble titanium dioxide is because it’s oil soluble, so it disperses very nicely. If you’re going to try it, I’d recommend using a very fine grind so you don’t end up with gritty particles.

      The red oxide is from NDA, they re-named it reddish brown recently, but it’s the same stuff.

  20. Jessica says:

    Hello Marie,

    As time goes by, my concealer has hardened a bit. Is there a way I can soften it back up?

    • Marie says:

      I’ve noticed this with mine, too :/ The best solution I’ve got right now is warming it up, usually with my breath or a fingertip. I’m currently trying to figure out what the problem is, so hopefully I’ll have a better answer soon…

  21. Miss.Fanny says:

    do you think this recipe could make more of a liquid foundation if i were to use less clay or something? im trying to make a liquid foundation and so far have only been able to make a powder foundation :/

    • Marie says:

      You’re free to try it, but I can’t make any promises. I, too, have been trying to make a liquid foundation and have so far just thrown out a lot of skin coloured goo. It’s tricky! I think you’d probably find this to be pretty heavy since it has no water in it—most liquid foundations I’ve seen have water in them so they feel lighter.

  22. Meg says:

    I’m new to DIY cosmetics but it’s all I want to do, everyday!

    What do you think of the controversy regarding titanium dioxide? Are the colored oxides a safe and natural option as well?

    I really love the idea of creating my own, natural products but this one has me on the fence. I would love to be able to get the coverage I want from just shea butter, cocoa powder and arrowroot but it’s just not cutting it. The finished product in your pictures looks perfect and my skin is drooling for it.

    I just want to make sure I will be making something that is good for my skin, not just a homemade version of the chemical-filled store products.

    Thank you!

    • Marie says:

      Hi Meg! Welcome to the awesome world of DIY cosmetics :D Soon you will be scoffing and snorting derisively at all the grossly overpriced pots of goo at the department stores as I do… if you don’t already, that is ;)

      The danger around titanium dioxide is really just to do with inhaling, so don’t snort lines of it (lol) and do be careful not to inhale it (mostly problematic when using a coffee grinder—I wear a dust mask). As for oxides, they are basically refined rust. Rust minus heavy metals and other dangerous things, that is. Are they 100% natural? Eh… kind of? The compounds do occur naturally, but the ones we buy are generally synthesized/refined for our safety. They get a low hazard rating on Skin Deep, and the general gist is a) don’t inhale large quantities and b) avoid use as nano particles. A dust mask solves problem a, and I’ve never found nano versions for purchase (and you can’t really do that up yourself at home).

      It’s also worth noting that you really don’t have any other options for getting a variety of strong colours in the safe/natural cosmetics world. Clays are pretty good, but not as potent and still fairly limited. Botanical extracts are also quite limited and not very potent (and water soluble, which is problematic for most cosmetic applications in my experience). You also don’t need much of an oxide to achieve the colours you’ll want, which automatically limits your exposure. And, when you compare them to FD&C dyes, they win hands down.

      So, I suppose what I’m saying is I am ok with them. I wear my dust mask & I don’t buy nano particle versions, and I like them. They give me the freedom to create products that function like store bought products, but contain great things like seabuckthorn oil. I always recommend doing your own research and making your own decisions, but you will find yourself very limited if you choose not to use them. That’s not all bad, of course, but something to keep in mind :)

  23. Maialen says:

    1) Do you think Argan oil could replace Seabuckthorn oil? Why?
    2) Do you think Hazelnut oil could replace Rosehip oil? Why?

    Right now I’m putting together an exhaustive excel spreadsheet detailing prices of ingredients and ingredients needed in my first batch of recipe attempts, aka the healing concealer and cream blush.

    Thanks for posting all of these DIY endeavors!

    • Marie says:

      Thanks for helping me out by re-submitting these, Maialen :)

      Both your substitutes will work well in terms of not adversely effecting the texture of the final product (similar consistencies and absorbency). However, neither argan nor hazelnut oil have the same acne-zapping properties as seabuckthorn & rosehip oil. Argan is still a great healing oil, though, so on the whole I think you’d be ok :)

      Have fun with your DIYing!

  24. Emily says:

    Hmmm… Just out of curiosity, do you think it would be possible to replace the iron oxides with highly pigmented clays – such as Australian red reef clay and rhassoul clay – to achieve similar colouring effects in the concealer?

    • Marie says:

      In my experience, the only clays that have enough pigment to replace oxides are Australian red & Australian black, though Aussie black clay doesn’t act like a clay or an oxide because it’s magnetic & quite heavy, so it will sink out of thinner formulations. So, if your skin is a sort of pinkish/reddish/brownish/black colour, totally! The other more skin-like coloured clays, though, aren’t strong enough to give much of a colour punch before you’re just spreading straight clay paste on your face. Also, be sure to watch out for the textures of the clay—every rhassoul clay I’ve come across is quite gritty, which makes it feel like you put sand in your make-up :( Clays also shift colour when wetted out with water or oils far more than oxides, so be prepared for that when you’re testing. I think you will find that you need yellow and brown oxides as a minimum in order to achieve a skin tone colour for your cosmetics. Let me know how it goes if you try it, though!

  25. Yorgi says:

    Hello Marie!

    I too have been wanting to completely minimize the amount of chemicals I put on my skin when it comes to concealing scars and such. I am going to try your recipe (because it looks amazing!!!), but my skin is more olive-to-tan looking. I also live in an area with almost year-round sun, so I occasionally get rather dark. What type of clay and oxides would you recommend? I am relatively knew to DIY makeup. :)

    Thank you!

    • Marie says:

      Hi Yorgi! You could probably still start with the same clay (or perhaps something a little darker, like Australian Beige or Australian Ivory), and then tweak it the rest of the way with iron oxides. A blend of yellow, brown, and red works for almost all skin tones, it’s just the matter of finding the precise blend that works for you! Thanks for reading :)

  26. Bekah says:

    So I did try making this concealer finally! (I commented earlier too) and have mixed results after a few first-timer mistakes. It ended up being too dark of a shade, even before I put in any of the micas, and I think this is because of the clay substitution I made using australian ivory. Now I have the color pretty close to my color, just needs to be lighter by a few shades. I am wondering if you suggest anything just to make it paler? Is there such a thing as white mica? Any advice would be appreciated! :)

    • Marie says:

      Yay! I’m glad to hear you tackled this & it worked! Titanium dioxide will add some whiteness, though it will dilute the colour as well. In the future I’d try using kaolin clay instead of Australian ivory, since the kaolin is white—it’s a nice starting point :)

      You could also get a tan ;) LOL

  27. Georgia says:

    Hey Marie,
    I have just made this recipe at first for using it as a concealer and as it turned very good for oily skin I have tried to turn the same recipe to make a cream eyeshadow. I
    measured the oils and after I have finished, I remembered that I have forgotten the 7g of capuacu butter. Well, to tell you the truth, it became the exactly as the paint pots of MAC. The same opacity and steadiness.. I’m so happy !!!! Thank you a lot !!!

    • Marie says:

      Fantastic! How funny, I have been experimenting with something similar, but I’ve been having adhesion issues—it sounds like I should re-visit this recipe :) Yay for experiments! And successes! WOOO!

  28. Erin says:

    Hi,

    I am wondering if you purchased both oil and water soluble titanium oxides from Saffire Blue, or just used the one from NDA. I asked at NDA and they said that theirs is neither, but soluble in both oil and water so now I am very confused. Thanks!

    • Marie says:

      So… I have all three, and I use the ones from SB when it really matters. And I really need to test the NDA stuff as I’ve been meaning to do because you emailed me about this an embarrassingly long time ago (sorry….). My plan is to just test it for you so I can say once and for all. But, from what I’ve read, titanium dioxide is more “disperse-able” than “soluble”, and the two are sort of on either end of a spectrum, so I suppose it’s possible for one type to be both? Eh. I will do that experiment, I swear. Sorry I haven’t gotten to this yet :(

  29. Grace says:

    Hey! I’m trying to make the most of the ingredients I already have and avoid buying ingredients I would only use in one thing… You said you use the beeswax, capuaco, and cocoa butter to thicken… if I don’t have capuaco, could I just add more beeswax and cocoa butter? I saw you suggested mango butter, but I don’t have that one either.

    Also, you said multani mitti and zeolite clays can be subbed with a clay that matches your skin tone. I have the Australian Ivory from another make up recipe of yours… can I use that one clay to replace both of those you mentioned?

    • Jennifer says:

      How funny, Grace. I had a similar question about substitutions. Marie, can coconut oil be substituted for the capuacu butter? I really need a good concealer.

      Thanks!

      • Marie says:

        Hi Jennifer! Sadly not—those two ingredients have totally different textures and melting points. Coconut oil pretty much liquifies on contact with the skin and is very thin, whereas capuacu butter is smooth and thick. I’d recommend mango butter or even shea butter as better subs. You can read more about carrier oil subs here :)

    • Marie says:

      Hi Grace! If you don’t have cupuacu I’d recommend subbing out another soft oil with a melting point around 35°C—shea butter might work, though it’s not as smooth. If you do try to use more cocoa butter, you’ll need to do the fiddling yourself to get a texture you’re happy with. I wouldn’t increase the beeswax as it’s such a powerful thickener and has a far higher melting point.

      Yes, you can use Aus Ivory clay if that matches your skin tone :)

  30. Laura says:

    Hey Marie,

    Have you ever tried making a solid concealer? I’m looking to venture further into diy-ing my makeup and I’m fantasizing of a high coverage concealer that I can apply straight in a lip balm tube. Then that made me think maybe I can build a lip balm base and combine some titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate and oxides together for it! Do you think that would work using a blend of shea butter, cocoa butter, beeswax and jojoba oil? I would love to hear your thoughts!

    Thanks,

    Laura

    • Marie says:

      Hi Laura! This concealer actually ended up being quite solid (despite the photo… it took a few days to set up), especially on the surface exposed to the air. Next time I would definitely put it in one of the slim lip balm tubes. I’d give that a go before changing anything :)

  31. JT says:

    Hi Marie!
    I just discovered your blog & am loving it. I am just wondering if there is anything you can substitute Titanium dioxide with to make this formula opaque? I read that TD is a potential carcinogen so would prefer my formula not to include it.
    Thanks a lot! :)

    • Marie says:

      Hi JT! The risks with titanium dioxide are from inhaling the powder, which I definitely don’t recommend doing—a dust mask comes in useful here. You can read more about the risks here, and as you can see, all the risks are annotated with “only for products that may be aerosolized (airborne)”. Health risks associated with inhaling fine powders aren’t limited to titanium dioxide by any means—you could use zinc oxide as a substitute, but it has the same risks if you want to breathe in a big cloud of it :P Once it’s in the concealer it won’t float off into your lungs, so as long as you are careful with the production process, you should be a-ok :)

  32. Maialen says:

    I recently found out about the acne face map, which states that acne appearing on different parts of the face is the result of specific internal problems. Most of my acne forms around the side of my mouth, which is supposed to be caused by hormonal imbalances. My breakouts in that area weren’t related to my cycle, so I knew that that was not my problem. I think dairy and soy (which I consumed regularly and a lot) were the main culprit. Since cutting them out of my diet this last week, my acne has mostly subsided in that region.

    For more info on acne face map, check out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z139_OHNuLE

    • Maialen says:

      Dairy for obvious reasons, soy because it has a compound in it that mimics estrogen.

    • Marie says:

      I’ve seen charts and what not on this before, and it does seem to line up with my acne—which is generally mild, but generally worse around “that time”. Unfortunately, with the chin location I end up making things worse as I tend to sit with my chin in my hands. Bad Marie, I know :/

  33. Amber says:

    Dear Marie, I can’t tell you enough how happy I am that you’ve shared such an amazing resource of free & natural skin care recipes with the world! And even better, your recipes seem really intelligently and dilligently designed and tweaked, until they really WORK! I discovered your website about a week ago, and I’ve been spending many evenings pawing over the recipes and trawling the web comparing UK-based ingredients suppliers. [As a side note, I can really see how this kind of hobby could soon become an expensive obsession!] :-D

    I have a couple of questions, if you have a spare minute or three:

    1. I haven’t been able to find any multani mitti clay ANYWHERE!! On the UK version of the New Directions site, the closest clay (colour-wise) appears to be the French Yellow clay. Do you think this could be a worthy substitution?
    http://www.newdirectionsuk.com/shop/products/index.php?id=1022

    2. Beeswax choice is a bit bewildering! For these healthy cosmetics, which is the better choice: refined / unrefined / purified / ‘BP’ grade?
    https://www.newdirectionsuk.com/shop/search.php?k=beeswax&s.x=0&s.y=0
    See, I love the smell of natural beeswax, and I’d IMAGINE that it retains more ‘good stuff’ (beneficial healing compounds?) than the refined beeswax…but am I right, or is the point of refining the wax to remove contaminants that wouldn’t be good up close and personal with skin?

    3. In a similar vein, when purchasing butters, and oils, etc, would the UNrefined, cold-pressed versions be best? [Are the refined pretty much 'dead' versions, stripped of the useful nutrients due to the processing methods? Or does processing actually improve these ingredients, in the context of cosmetics making?] ~What do you choose???~

    4. Organic, or non-organic? Is there risk of harmful pesticides and chemicals getting into our products, if we choose regular non-organic ingredients?

    5. Vitamin E oil: natural or synthetic? There’s a HUGE difference in price, but is there any difference in product outcome?

    6. Sericite Mica: Silk, or matte for mineral makeup? The blurb on both versions says that they are colourless and untreated: http://happyolive.co.uk/cart.php?m=search_results&headerSearch=Y&search=sericite

    Sorry for the mass of questions, Marie. I just really want to be sure I’m making the right informed choices in my purchases, as I know I’ll be investing a lot of money and time in this hobby. Call it the OCD in me! :-P

    • Marie says:

      Hi Amber! Thanks so much for reading, and for your kind words :) I really appreciate your support! Now, for some answers :)

      1. Choose a fine clay that’s closest to your skin tone (not rhassoul, it’s gritty!) and you’ll be fine :)

      2. I buy my beeswax straight from the beekeeper. It’s yellow and smells like honey, and I LOVE it that way. I wouldn’t recommend anything else. The white stuff is usually from China, too, which is downright silly when you can buy local beeswax almost anywhere in the world.

      3. I like to buy the un-refined versions of butters wherever and whenever I can. The processed ones are sometimes all you can get, and while they’re still good moisturizers, common sense (and some reading) says the processing strips them of many of the vitamins and goodness we value the ingredient for in the first place.

      4. Go for what you can afford. I feel like we’re already seriously upgrading the healthfulness of our products by ditching all the fake stuff, but this hobby shouldn’t break the bank.

      5. Again, affordable. I’ve never even tried the expensive one—OUCH. It is painfully pricey! The cheap one has worked perfectly for me.

      6. I’d choose whichever you prefer your face to look like. I’d probably go with silk rather than matte as my skin doesn’t need any help looking dry!

      Thanks so much for reading :) Have fun!

      • Amber says:

        Ahhhr thank you so much, oh awesome lady! :-D I’ve taken delivery of a bunch of intriguing-looking ingredients, and I’m now just biding my time til the weekend when I can try out a spot of cosmetic wizardry, a la Marie! Sillily (is that even a word?!) excited. :-)

  34. Danielle says:

    Can I substitute all the oxides you used for just one oxide? Also I have a very deep skin tone (I am of African descent) can you recommend a clay that I could use? And one more thing, does titanium dioxide make things such as foundation more opaque and have even more coverage? If not, would you be so kind as to recommend me an ingredient that does? Thank you in advance!

    • Marie says:

      Hi Danielle! You can if your skin is exactly the colour of one oxide. This isn’t the case for most people, but if it is for you, awesome. For clay I’d recommend sticking with the original clays and then darkening them up with oxides—I don’t know of any clays that are a dark brown and smooth enough for use here. And yes, titanium dioxide provides opacity, coverage, and brightness :)

  35. Alison says:

    Any idea what type of sites I should look at to find the ingredients overseas? I’m in South Africa, and I wasn’t sure where to start. Thanks!

  36. Julie says:

    I’m looking forward to trying this recipe! Do you think any discoloration would occur if I colored it with turmeric, cocoa powder and beet root powder instead of the oxides? Thanks! I think I will try pouring into a lip balm tube for ease of application. :)

    • Marie says:

      Hi Julie! You will not have a lot of fun if you try using food for colourants here. Your biggest difficulties will be with solubility (see what happens when you combine beetroot powder and oil here) and potency, resulting in a final product that’s chunky/gritty, and not very pigmented. I’d really recommend getting yourself some oxides, they’re wonderfully versatile and deliver a wonderfully strong colour punch.

      • Julie says:

        I’m going to follow your advice and pick up some oxides. I’ve been experimenting with food colorants and have found that, so far, they really only work well with powders. They begin to get a bit grey after awhile with anything in liquid form. Though, I may try again and see what happens with this Leucidal Liquid stuff I’ve been reading about. I’m new to this, so I’m sure I have a lot of experimenting ahead of me. Thanks for the reply!

        • Marie says:

          Have fun with them! I’ve also noticed the same thing about plant based colourants—I just chucked a rather grey pot of beetroot lip gloss. I don’t think Leucidal Liquid will prevent the colours from fading, though—that is an oxidization reaction, and Leucidal Liquid is an broad spectrum preservative. Some vitamin E or rosemary seed extract might help, though :)

  37. Hafssah says:

    Hi Marle,
    I was wondering what kind of beeswax you use, yellow or white?
    Thanks for the recipe, I hope to try this. I live in a country where the simplest makeup is pricey, and I’m so sick and tired buying expensive crap and not even feeling right wearing it cuz it’s full of…well, crap. I have some bad acne and redness, so my question is this pretty pigmented/ have good coverage and staying power?

  38. Megan says:

    How do you clean/sterilize your containers before filling them?

    • Marie says:

      I usually run them through the dishwasher, but a quick swirl of high percentage rubbing alcohol also does the trick :) Because I don’t sell anything I make I’m generally not too fussed about it.

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