I first developed this cream last autumn under the title “ultra gel cream”. When you look at the ingredients you’ll know why—it’s pretty darn “ultra”. It is positively packed with things that are bomb-diggity awesome for the skin, helping to brighten, hydrate, soothe, and heal. I was a bit on the fence about sharing it as it does contain a lot of somewhat fancy to straight-up fancy ingredients that not everyone will have… but it’s also awesome, and I think people who do have (or purchase) the ingredients will love it. I’ve also had a lot of requests for anti-ageing products & products for more mature skin, and I think this lovely serum more than qualifies!
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For awesome moisturizing, hydrating goodness we have some low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, propanediol 1,3, and panthenol. They’re all great, non-sticky humectants, and the panthenol is also anti-inflammatory and boosts healing.
Brightening goodness comes from a combination of niacinamide (aka vitamin B3) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine. Both of these lovely ingredients help boost barrier function so our skin can be its most resilient, healthy self, and when paired they are wonderful skin brighteners. I highly recommend reading the Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia posts on each ingredient as there is so much to say about how wonderful they both are!
Some ceramide complex further helps boost barrier function. Ceramides are really quite cool and a downright wonderful skincare ingredient, helping support and strengthen the skin. We naturally produce our own ceramides, which are the “mortar” in the brick and mortar structure of skin cells and ceramides that make up our stratum corneum (the top-most layer of our epidermis). The ceramide complex we’re using in this formulation helps supplement our skin’s natural ceramides, as well as encouraging our skin to produce more of its own ceramides. All of this awesomeness helps our skin be more resilient, reducing irritation and reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). All good things!
Coenzyme Q10 is a fabulous antioxidant, and gives this serum its lovely yellow colour. It can help prevent collagen breakdown, prevent/repair UV damage, and increase cell turnover. Allantoin also helps stimulates healthy tissue production as well as being soothing and anti-irritating. It isn’t terribly water-soluble, so I’ve kept the usage rate low to ensure it stays in solution and doesn’t go all shardy (not pleasant!).
Everything is brought together with Aristoflex AVC, which both thickens this to a creamy gel consistency and pseudo-emulsifies in the oil soluble ingredients, of which there are just three. There’s the Coenzyme Q10, and then some dimethicone 350 and cyclomethicone. Both are silicones; the dimethicone is non-volatile and functions as an emollient, while the cyclomethicone is volatile and contributes really gorgeous, lightweight slip. Both of them help reduce tackiness as well—something I find can really come out to play in watery things that are rich in actives like this serum is.
The finished serum has a wonderful, silky skin feel that brings to mind very expensive serums and creams—with an ingredient list to back up that “expensive” sensation! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.
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Brightening Gel Serum
Primary phase
0.5g | 1% Aristoflex AVC (USA / Canada)
1g | 2% dimethicone 350 (USA / Canada)
1g | 2% cyclomethicone (USA / Canada)
1g | 2% Coenzyme Q10 Q-MAXSecondary phase
1g | 2% Propanediol 1,3 (USA / Canada)
10g | 20% low molecular weight 1% hyaluronic acid solution
2.5g | 5% ceramide complex (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5% N-Acetyl Glucosamine (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.5% allantoin (USA / Canada)
2g | 4% niacinamide
1g | 2% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)Tertiary phase
27g | 54% distilled waterWeigh the primary phase ingredients into a 100mL (3.3fl oz) beaker (or similarly sized measuring cup/bowl) and whisk to combine.
Add the secondary phase ingredients and whisk to combine. Once the mixture is relatively uniform, add the distilled water. Stir to combine, and then cover with some cling film, and leave for at least an hour so the Aristoflex AVC can hydrate.
After an hour (overnight works, too) whisk the mixture thoroughly until it is completely uniform with a thick, creamy consistency. That’s it! If you don’t want to wait you can use a mini mixer to bring it all together faster… just be sure to keep a good hold on things. That really cool splatter in my photos is from my mini mixer getting away from me and rapidly decorating my tabletop with about 1/3 of the serum! It looks very artsy in the photos, but I don’t recommend splattering your working space in serum, ha.
My top choice for packaging this formulation would be an airless pump bottle; for this 50g (1.76oz) batch you’d want something around 50mL (1.69fl oz)–60mL (2fl oz). This is thin enough to pump out, so a pump bottle will work, as will a tottle or squeeze tube.
To use, smooth a pea-sized amount over the skin after cleansing and follow up with an oil serum or cream/lotion. Enjoy!
When made as written, the pH of this gel cream comes out to 5–6, which is where we want it for the niacinamide. That said, it’s a good idea to test the pH of products where pH is imporant—you can learn how to test & adjust pH here.
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this gel serum contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative, this project may eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this recipe, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there! If I have not given a specific substitution suggestion in this list (Aristoflex AVC, dimethicone 350, Coenzyme Q10, propanediol, hyaluronic acid, N-Acetyl Glucosamine, allantoin, niacinamide, panthenol) please look up the ingredient in the encyclopedia before asking.
- I don’t recommend swapping out the dimethicone as it really helps prevent this cream from being tacky.
- You could try a natural silicone alternative, like LuxGlide 350. Look for one that is marketed as a dimethicone alternative rather than a cyclomethicone alternative.
- You could try a slippy liquid oil, though no liquid oil will do the same job as dimethicone.
- Both of those alternatives will result in a stickier end product.
- For the cyclomethicone:
- Other volatile silicones like Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone 1.5 will work. Viscous dimethicones like 500 & 1000 are not a good choice.
- You could try a natural silicone alternative that is marketed as a cyclomethicone alternative.
- You could try a very lightweight oil or ester like Neossance® Hemisqualane or C12-15 alkyl benzoate.
- I don’t recommend swapping out the ceramide complex. If you have to, choose something your skin loves, or just use more distilled water to keep the formulation balanced.
- If you’re like to use a different preservative, please review this page.
- If you’d like to add some scent:
- You could swap 20–30% of the water for a hydrosol of choice
- You could reduce the water by 0.5–1% to make room for an essential oil or fragrance of choice (or blend)
- Aristoflex AVC is sensitive to electrolytes so do not incorporate any ingredients that contain electrolytes like aloe vera, sodium lactate, or urea.
Gifting Disclosure
The hyaluronic acid was gifted by Pure Nature. The Aristoflex AVC was gifted by Windy Point.
Thank you so much for sharing Marie! I am serious need for something like this and because of lockdown I have all the time in the world to make it! You are so talented with your creations!
You are so welcome 😀 I hope you love it! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
I want to make this so bad, but it’s just so hard to find some ingredients here in Germany. I’ve been on the lookout for NAG for weeks now and I just can’t find it. Same with the Propanediol 1,3… *sigh*
I know that sometimes it’s just me being stupid. For example with propylene glycol I searched for a whole day before I realized that it’s just one word on German sites.
So if someone here can help a troubled soul, please do 😉
Oh and thank you Marie for your awesome recipes and your videos. I love the live streams. Stay healthy everyone!
Hey Marie,
Your brightening serum vlog brightened up my day! I have dimethicone 200, will there be a noticable change in performance?
Thanks much!
I doubt you’ll notice much of a difference 🙂 Happy making!
Hi! Try looking up NAG in supplement companies. Just make sure it has no additives.
Hi Marie
I have a powder Q10 enzyme, how can deal with it, it soluble in lipid!!!!!
Plz help
Lipid soluble = fat soluble; it sounds like it needs to be dissolved in some sort of fat. You supplier should provide details on heat stability, etc. Happy making!
Hello Marie,
I love this Gel Serum. I made it many times. Will it be ok to add Penstia powder ? I like this powder so much I want to use it in every cream too.
Thanks
Natalia
I have everything I need to make this, YAY!
Hooray! Happy making 😀
I’ve been wanting to make something like serum with Aristoflex so badly. The rest of the actives I need are sitting in my Lotioncrafter cart waiting for me to hit the buy button, lol. Keep creating recipes with Aristoflex–it’s my favorite emulsifier and pretty foolproof as long as there’s no electrolytes added to it 🙂
I love these gel creams so much! I have such difficult skin. Even though I’m starting to show signs of aging, I still have such oily skin! The gel creams plus the second skin foundation have really helped to keep this in check.
Where did you get your airless pump? I love that it’s clear! Mine are solid and it’s such a small amount of product I can’t ever ‘feel’ how much is left. It would be great if I could see when I need to whip up a new batch. 🙂
I’m so glad you like the looks of this product! I’m afraid I have no idea where that bottle came from—it’s been in my packaging stash for probably at least 5 years. I believe SKS sells clear airless pump bottles, though 🙂 Happy making!
I want to make this so bad, but it’s just so hard to find some ingredients here in Germany. I’ve been on the lookout for NAG for weeks now and I just can’t find it. Same with the Propanediol 1,3… *sigh*
I know that sometimes it’s just me being stupid. For example with propylene glycol I searched for a whole day before I realized that it’s just one word on German sites.
So if someone here can help a troubled soul, please do
Oh and thank you Marie for your awesome recipes and your videos.
I love the live streams.
Stay healthy everyone!
(Is it possible to delete my “reply” to Naveen? I wrote that on my phone and it wasn’t supposed to go there. Sorry)
Try amora zone , it’s french but you can go through google translate.
I think you mean “aroma-zone.com” Love that site, wish there was a US version.
Les Ames Fleur in Canada sells some of their products—closer than Europe, at least 🙂
Thank you! This is a great start to a mature, anti-aging collection!
I hope you like it 😀 Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making!
Do you have a recipe for dark circles and puffiness under the eyes?
Try this Soothing Under Eye Gel:
https://www.humblebeeandme.com/?s=under+eye+gel
I’ve made it several times and Really Love It…even my sweetie pie uses it, and it’s hard to get him to use anything – lotion, cream, etc…But he stole mine so I had to make more! YES!
Hi Giselle! I really like Marie’s soothing eye gel with some sort of niacinamide facial toner. Caffeine in it helps with puffiness I’ve had. I’ve sometimes made more room to caffeine (max 1 %). It may cause some solubilizing issues, though.
Check this out 🙂
Marie, this is AMAZING! I use it at night on a clean face & I absolutely see a big difference in my face. My skin looks healthy & plump. I adore it! I can’t believe the difference in my skin! Thank you so much!
Hi Marie. This sounds so interesting! Stunning recipe. Sounds like a fun remake: it wouldn’t cost me arm and leg. Only thing I’m having difficulties find is NAG. I started thinking about NAG replacement based on my latest facial projects (which u pretty much know) and your encyclopedia. AHA, SAP or betaine? I like them all with B3. Urea would be also cheap + available
Hi! I have Gelmaker EMU. Does it have the same sensitivity to electrolytes that Aristo does?
Im trying to avoid silicones and read Hemp oil has a similar function/feel. Thoughts on that?
Also, is there a reason you don’t use 100% hydrosol in your formulas? Thank you and love your site!!
Hi Marie! I made this and it is a little sticky. My version included MAP at 2% and substituting 10% hydrosol for 10% water. I subtracted 2% water for the MAP.
I didn’t have cyclomethicone so I used Daikon Seed.
In making this, it didn’t gel up. I added a wee bit more Aristoflex AVC. Then it gelled and was to my liking.
Any thoughts? Was it the daikon or more AVC??
Thanks! Keep on making!
I suspect it’s a bit of both. Daikon seed extract won’t de-tack to nearly the same level as cyclomethicone, and more Aristoflex likely dialed up the tack a bit—so you reduced it less than I did, and then increased it a bit on top of that 🙂 I also find opinions/perceptions of tackiness/stickiness are pretty personal, so it could also be that you’re more sensitive to tackiness than I am. You can likely improve your opinion of the skin feel by applying an oil serum or cream overtop 🙂 Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
I’ve had (crazy) stickyness with both MAP + SAP when I use more than 1 %. I did with and without trials.
Hi there,
I can’t wait to try this recipe and would like to know where you can get that plastic container?
Thank you.
I didn’t link it anywhere because I have no idea where it came from, sorry! I think I’ve had it kicking around in my studio since 2014 or earlier. Try SKS or YellowBee for similar things 🙂
Hi Marie, I have just ordered all the ingredients required to make this, I am so excited to make this. I was really disappointed with the cost of shipping from Lotion Crafters, love that place but shipping has increased so much that it’s not worth it for Canadians. I was so sad that I wouldn’t be able to make the serum without the coenzyme Q10 but I was able to find it in Canada at Les Ames fleurs. The rest of the ingredients I was able to find at Windy Point Soap. Will keep you posted
Bummer on the international shipping 🙁 Our dollar is pretty weak right now, too… I hate to think of what the duties would be on arrival 😐 I’ve never actually ordered from Lotion Crafter into Canada—I always have the order meet me at a hotel or something when I’m visiting the USA, but I don’t see any trips in my future 🙁 I look forward to hearing what you think!
Hey there Marie, i really like this recipe, but unfortunately I can’t find Aristoflex AVC in my country. Can you suggest me another alternative to it ?
Please look it up in the Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia 🙂 It’s linked in the substitutions list at the bottom of the formula!
I will definitely check Les Ames fleur, because I haven’t been able to find the Coenzyme Q10. Thanks.
Hey Marie. I have the powdered Coenzyme Q. How would I change how it’s incorporated?
I’d refer to any suggestions/instructions from your supplier; I haven’t worked with CoQ10 in powder form 🙂
Hi,
I am just about to order the stuff I need for this, but man, the ceramide complex is super expensive from Windy Point in Canada. I hopes it’s worth the $31 plus tax and shipping for 30grams. I can not find the right coenzyme Q10 in Canada, so will opt for vitamin E MT-50.
I was wondering if you have ever tried making this with Sepimax ZEN? If so, what were the results?
Hi,
I do not have low molecular weight 1% hyaluronic acid solution and my skin will not tolerate it.
I do have fruit acid complex, but would never use it at 20%.
If I leave it out, would I use water instead?
Your help would be greatly appreciated. I bought all the other ingredients and would like to make this without low molecular weight 1% hyaluronic acid solution or with fruit acid complex.
Marie,
I found Hyaluronic Acid (Super Low Molecular Weight) in Canada, but it’s incredibly expensive ($100 for 100 grams) and after purchasing all the other ingredients for this, I am out of money.
I hope I can use water instead of Hyaluronic Acid solution, but I am concerned about the PH.
You can use water instead; you shouldn’t notice any meaningful difference in the pH as +/- 0.2% hyaluronic acid isn’t much (hyaluronic acid is not an acid in the same way citric acid or lactic acid are). Happy making!
Hi Marie, I have order all the ingredients except CoQ10 as i can not find same liquid stuff in here Australia but I have found liquid CoQ10 in liquid from in New Direction Australia. This one have lots in ingredients Vegetable/Palm Free, Purified Water, Corn Starch Modified, Ubiquinone, Maltodextrin, Tocopherol, Silica.
Use Levels: From 10-20% and PH is 5-8. If I have to incorpate with your ingredient for this gel lotion how much I should use, if I use 10% CoQ10 and replace with 8% water. Should i have to check PH? As this is my first project I am nervous as it is and I don’t know how to check or balance PH. Any advice would be highly appropriate. Thank you. Regards Hetal
I have been using this sparingly for over a month, but am findings it’s making my skin break out and I wondering if anyone else experienced this?
Hi Marie! In your encyclopedia, you mention that Aristoflex can (with caveats) be subbed for Sepimax, but you don’t say the other way around. Can Sepimax be used in this recipe? Thanks!
That should work! 🙂
Hello Elizabeth,
I’am planing to try this recipe tomorrow , I have no Aristoflex, but I do have Sepimax! I was looking at the comments and found your’s! Did you end up using Sepimax instead of Aristoflex? If yes, did it work?
Thank you..
Adele
Marie,
I’ve tried this recipe with some changes. I used Q10 powder, hydroxytyl, PEG 40 & little bit essential oil. it didn’t work . they won’t mix together. should I replace PEG 40 with water soluble shea butter? I can’t find Aristoflex in my place.
Hi
Can I use Astragalus powder as a substitute for Aristoflex.
I CAN’T FIND IT IN MY COUNTRY.
TIA
I haven’t ever worked with it; I recommend reading up on Aristoflex in the Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia (https://www.humblebeeandme.com/diy-encyclopedia/) to learn what it does and see if your alternative will do the same jobs. Happy making!
Would caffeine be a good additive to this formulation? Is there a specific reason you chose to not add caffeine? I’m making this right now as is. I was just wondering for the next time I make it because I would like to tweak it to include it. TIA 🙂
Yup! Give it a try 🙂
Oh, also, is Penstia Powder good in gel serums? In your encyclopedia, you say Penstia Powder is amazing for reducing tackiness, which would be PERFECT when using serums because that is one of the tricky parts of making a serum. However, I have yet to find it in a recipe for a serum or similar product. So, I’m wondering if there is a reason for this before I try it.
Yes, it’s lovely in gels + creams + gel/cream serum type things—give it a go!
I’ve been dreaming about your brightening things and sweetgrass serum for ages. I’m placing few orders tomorrow. I managed to source both non-preserved hydrosols (electrolytes break the gel structure), propanediol and tocoperyl acetate and I was thinking about useing TA instead of Q10, maybe with bakuchiol, and just leave the ceramides out. I’d use different gelling agent and oils too (hence I call it a riff on ultra gel cream). Also, I’m getting myself some emulsifying wax BP (the one with SLS) for creamy clay masks and cleansing balms.
Hope you don’t mind me asking: anything else I might need? I should recieve NAG, ecogel, ecomulse, preservative eco and dermosoft 1388 eco, betaine and mixed tocopherols and most of my usual preservatives during next week.
It takes some time to recieve rest of the goodies but anyway, I let you know how these turn out! You have no idea how much appreciated your work is. Your encyclopedia is amazing. I never could have figured these choiches out without your solid work and generosity.
Hey Marie! I have Luxglide 350, but no cyclomethicone. I found a product on Formulator Sample Shop called SilDerm Smoothing, which claims to be dimethicone and cyclomethicone in one product. What do you think?
Also, from the same supplier, I have in my cart the Euxyl K 903. Can I use that in this formula instead of the Liquid Germall Plus?
And as a general substitution, can Euxyl K 903 be used instead of LGP? I can’t tell you how excited I am to be able to potentially use a natural preservative instead of the mind-bogglingly long INCI names for LGP on my ingredient labels! 😉
So I found Luxglide N5 at Candora Soap. It’s a natural cyclomethicone alternative. I always prefer to buy from Canadian suppliers whenever I can, so I think I’ll be getting that. On the natural preservative topic: I looked at your preservatives table, and I see you don’t list Leucidal Liquid SF MAX (which Candora Soap also sells). Have you used this one? I’m trying to find something that I can swap out for LGP. I love LGP, but my customers don’t! The INCI name scares them, and many of them don’t want products that contain propylene glycol. I’d love to know your thoughts!