Today we’re blending up a Cream Silk Cleansing Balm that I’m really quite proud of. It was vaguely inspired by a storebought cleansing balm that I recently tried + a need for a really effective waterproof makeup removing product. In regards to the storebought cleansing balm I tried—I really liked how it melted on the skin, so I wanted to try to do that (but with completely different ingredients). And for the waterproof makeup—something about quarantine has me wearing more makeup than usual. I’m aware this is a bit odd, but whatever. I’m leaning into it… and then waking up in the morning with raccoon eyes because it would seem my makeup removal skills need to catch up to my application enthusiasm, ha. Anywho; this cleansing balm has a gorgeous decadent soft-solid-to-rich-liquid melt and works beautifully to take off a day’s worth of mascara and the like. I hope you enjoy it!
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One of the characteristics I wanted most for this cleansing balm was an indulgent, soft-solid consistency that quickly liquified into a rich oil once it was massaged into the skin. It took quite a few tries, but I eventually I achieved this by using a blend of pseudo wax and cetyl alcohol. For the pseudo wax; I tried both almond wax and olive wax, and I can’t say I noticed a difference between the two. Feel free to use whatever you have! The pseudo wax contributes mild thickening with a really rich, buttery skin feel. Cetyl alcohol offers more brittle hardening and a lovely melts-to-a-slippy-oil skin feel. Combine the two hardeners and we’ve got the lovely consistency I was looking for!
In order to keep this balm from feeling too heavy, the bulk of this Cream Silk Cleansing Balm is lightweight liquid emollients: C12-15 alkyl benzoate, sunflower seed oil, and fractionated coconut oil. If you’re looking to make substitutions, please prioritize keeping things fast-absorbing and inexpensive. I tried isopropyl myristate (IPM) instead of C12-15 alkyl benzoate and found that worked well, but the end product was noticeably greasier.
For rinse-off, we’ve got a blend of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and Polysorbate 80. I initially wanted to use just PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, but in the end, I found I needed a bit of Polysorbate 80 in the mix to get the rinse-off feel I wanted.
I experimented with different ways of chilling the balm, and found I very much prefer bringing it to a thick trace over pouring it while it’s still warm and letting it set on the counter or fridge. In this case, the trace isn’t to keep the balm from going grainy—instead, stirring it while it cools gives it a more uniform finish rather than getting a harder top and a gooey under-bit.
The finished cleansing balm is definitely one of the favourite-est things I’ve made in recent months. It is brilliant for removing waterproof makeup, rinses off wonderfully, and is just generally enjoyable to use. I hope you like it as much as I do!
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Cream Silk Cleansing Balm
13.5g | 27% C12-15 alkyl benzoate (USA / Canada)
5g | 10% sunflower seed oil (USA / Canada / UK / NZ)
7.5g | 15% fractionated coconut oil
7.5g | 15% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5% Polysorbate 80 (USA / Canada)
7.5g | 15% olive wax (USA / UK / Canada)
6.5g | 13% cetyl alcohol (USA / Canada)Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a small saucepan.
Weigh the ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.
While the ingredients melt, prepare an ice bath. Take a bowl that is large enough to accommodate the container the heated phase is melting in, and fill it about halfway with ice cubes and cold water.
Once everything has melted, remove the measuring cup from the heat and dry the outside of it off with a dish towel. Set the measuring cup on a towel or hot pad to insulate it from the counter and stir the mixture with a flexible silicone spatula to combine everything.
Place the measuring cup containing the heated phase into the ice bath and cool, stirring constantly, until you reach a fairly thick “trace”. The mixture should have enough viscosity that a spatula drawn through the mixture creates a line that holds for a few moments. Refer to the video to see it in action!
Once you’ve reached trace, transfer the product to a wide-mouthed jar. I used a 50mL (1.69fl oz) black plastic tub from YellowBee.
To use; I like to massage a dollop of cleansing balm into dry skin (especially around my eyes—this stuff is great for taking off waterproof eyeliner and mascara!) and then wipe it off with a damp microfibre cloth. Enjoy!
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this cleansing balm does not contain any water, it does not require a broad-spectrum preservative (broad spectrum preservatives ward off microbial growth, and microbes require water to live—no water, no microbes!). Be sure to keep it dry to ensure it lasts as long as possible—don’t let any water get into the container and it should easily last a year (use a dry finger or popsicle stick to dip into the container). If you plan on giving this cleansing balm away or taking it into the shower/bath with you, please include 0.5% liquid germall plus (USA / Canada). Though this preservative is water-soluble, this cleansing balm contains emulsifiers so it will emulsify, and because it is water-soluble it’ll be in the right phase if the balm gets contaminated with water.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this formulation, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there! If I have not given a specific substitution suggestion in this list please look up the ingredient in the encyclopedia before asking.
- You can try isopropyl myristate (IPM) instead of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, but I do find this makes for an oilier end product.
- You can try replacing the fractionated coconut oil and/or sunflower seed oil with more of the other, or a different fast-absorbing inexpensive carrier oil.
- You could try different solubilizers and/or an emulsifying wax instead of the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and/or Polysorbate 80, but you’ll be in re-development territory when it comes to rinse-off and melting point.
- I tried both almond wax and olive wax while developing this formulation and found both worked perfectly well with no noticeable differences. If you don’t have either you’ll need some sort of pseudo-wax, not a true wax like beeswax or candelilla wax (do not put a true wax in this cleansing balm!). If you cannot get a pseudo-wax, I’d try stearic acid as an alternative, but that will change the feel of the finished balm.
- Don’t substitute the cetyl alcohol.
Gifting Disclosure
The C12-15 alkyl benzoate (USA / Canada) was gifted by Essential Wholesale. The 50mL (1.69fl oz) black plastic tub was gifted by YellowBee.
The texture looks luscious!
Thank you so much! I had a lot of fun refining it ❤️
Slightly unrelated, as I don’t have most of these things right now in spite of my embarrassingly large collection – but ARE YOU MAKING A WATERPROOF MASCARA RECIPE??? You’ve been dropping hints for weeks and your fans are waiting eagerly!
I am not, sorry! I had no idea people thought my talking about eye makeup sounded like a teaser ha.
Hi,
this sounds lovely but i was curious about the use of polysorbate 80 as i had heard mixed things about its safety. Is there no other alternative or do you think its questionability is over emphasized?
Just want to add that i think you do a very professional job and i love to see what you are making. keep up the good work.
Hi Marie! How about cera bellina in place of the olive wax?
I do believe in her notes after recipes she says not to use a real wax like that hope that helps good luck!;)
I’m going to try it because it is an altered modified wax; I believe she was referring to unaltered natural waxes i.e. beeswax, carnauba, candellia, etc…
Hi Maire,
Your velvet cleansing oil inspired me to experiment with my own cleansing balm- I’m pleased with the result, but used beeswax- is this something you don’t recommend for cleansing balms in general (I’m always happy to tweak and experiment to perfect my recipe), or just for this particular formulation?
I would love to know what changing the beeswax to a pseudo wax would/could do, before adding some to my ingredients stash! 😀
In general, I find beeswax and other true waxes don’t wash off very well and can leave an unpleasant tacky finish on the skin if you aren’t very diligent. I prefer to use an easier-to-remove thickener and save the beeswax for products where that not-washing-off element is a good thing! Happy making 🙂
Thanks so much for your reply- I really appreciate you taking the time to answer.
I thought an easier rinse off that might be it, but wasn’t completely sure, and, although we’re pretty happy with the cleansing balm I formulated, there is a definite, if slight, tackiness, so it sounds like a pseudo wax is a perfect solution 🙂
I have hydrogenated castor oil but it looks like little pellets. Is it the same thing as the gel looking one you use here?
No; I didn’t use hydrogenated castor oil, I used PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil—they’re different 🙂
Can I use shea butter instead of the pseudo-wax? Will this affect the lather?
I don’t recommend it; shea butter is nowhere close to as potent of a thickener.
Good Morning,
Pseudo wax can be replaced by coconut wax (emulsifiable stearate GMS)?
You can try it, but you will likely be in re-development territory 🙂
Hi Marie! Can I replace the psuedo wax and cetyl alcohol with cetearyl alcohol?
Also, I noticed you have no kaolin here when you quite often add it to cleansing balms, and i was wondering what the reason for that was?
Thank you! You’re awesome X
You can try that hardener swap, but you will likely be in re-development territory 🙂 Have you read the substitutions list?
There’s no more reason for why there’s no clay in here than why I didn’t have soup for lunch today—didn’t feel like it, I guess? 😛
Happy making!
Hiya, thanks! Yep I’ve read the substitutions list, which says not to sub the cetyl alcohol, but I also read your post on cetearyl alcohol at different concentrations and also the posts in the ingredients directory which gave me the impression it could work. The reason I ask is that I have both cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol but not any pseudo wax so I guess I was trying to shoe horn it in there with what I have!
I often find my kaolin settles out of anhydrous products and thought that may be why you left it out (since it’s a softer balm).
As I side note since I’m chatting, I recently got some polyglycerl 4 oleate to try in my cleansing oils. Have you tried it? I tried at both 10 and 15% and it broke me out. I looked like a rhinocerous the boil on my forhead was so big!!
This has a truly luxurious skin feel and rinses off beautifully. More importantly it works – Mascara and panda eyes be gone! One question for you – did I hear in the video about a cream eyeshadow? Did I miss this one?
Hooray! I’m so glad you’re loving it 🙂 I have been experimenting with lots of cream eyeshadows (my own and storebought), but I haven’t shared anything. I’m not sure I ever will, honestly, as the formulations are crazy complex and contain a ton of ingredients that cannot be swapped out and can only be purchased in the USA :/
Wohoo! I managed to find both almond wax and jojoba wax – right here in Denmark!! Ahhhmazing!
So excited to try this and gift to the girls in my family who wears makeup.
I have a question – I’ve also gotten my hands on panthenol in powder form and wondering how to store it. I bought 500g. so it will take quite some time to use it, should I put it in the fridge? How do you store yours?
I hope you are safe and happy 🙂 thank you for all you do, you are such an inspiration! And sweet and cheerful and cute. I love your blog <3
Hi,
I am new to DIY and have never made a product other than infused acv. I recently started oil cleansing and my first venture into oil cleansing was with a balm; I’ve never oil cleansed with a liquid oil. The thought of using a messy liquid to clean my face never appealed to me in the slightest. The first oil cleansing balm I tried, I absolutely fell in love with; the skin feel, the slip, the beautiful, milky emulsification, the clean rinse off and, of course, the soft, moisturized feeling of my skin. However, there are two problems with this coveted balm: 1) it’s quite expensive for the amount of product and 2) it’s full of nasty chemicals. I’ve tried finding a natural cleansing balm but none of the natural ones have an emulsifier and don’t wash off cleanly. Since I’ve never made anything, I don’t even know where to begin with finding natural substitutes, formulating, etc. I also have some skin issues to take into consideration. I have the oiliest skin in the history of oily skin BUT, I’m NOT prone to acne. I get the occasional cyclical pimple MAYBE four times per year. My skin is HIGHLY susceptible to clogging, though. I have constant issues with blackheads and texture on my chin. Even though I’m in my late forties, my skin is relatively wrinkle-free due to my excessively oily skin so, that’s a plus, I guess. My skin is also not sensitive in the least. I’m hopeful you can help me formulate a natural product similar to the commercial one I love so much. The ingredients are as follows:
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Polyethylene, Peg-5 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Water\Aqua\Eau, Silybum Marianum (Lady’S Thistle) Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Algae Extract, Anthemis Nobilis (Chamomile), Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender), Methyldihydrojasmonate, Tocopherol, Bht, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol
In my quest to find a natural version of this cleansing balm, I’ve come across conflicting information on the comedogenic nature of both caprylic/capric triglycerides and algae extract so, I’m reluctant to use either in my formulation. When using the balm, I did notice a significant increase in milia or keratin bumps under my eyes that I’ve not been able to get rid of since running out of the balm (I haven’t used it in at least six months). I’m sorry this was so long. Please help! Thank you.
Marie, would this qualify as a snazzy cold cream? I had a Pond’s cold cream that I loved a long time ago but now the only recipes I can find are borax/beeswax emulsions, so I’m not sure how they’re different from a plain lotion. (Besides the fact that you wipe it off, lol…)
I’d say this is more like a cold cream—it’s an emulsion, though not a beeswax/borax one 🙂 Happy making!
Hi there! I am having trouble sourcing psuedowax that doesn’t cost upwards of $60 and come only in a 2lb bag (I’m looking at you, Ingredients to die for). Lotioncrafter caries this, though: https://lotioncrafter.com/products/oliwax. The INCI is Hydrogenated Olive Oil (and) Olive Oil (Olea Europaea) (and) Olive Oil Unsaponifiables. Would this work here?
I believe it would! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Yay! Thank you!
Hye there..i tried ur recipe n turned out it has some granules looking texture..wut us d mistake i did? please help..but it works well,, just the texture is not aesthetically pleasant…
I recommend you read my recent post on grainy body butters 🙂
Hi Marie. Big fan of your formulations.
Can you make an emulsion type cleansing balm. That involves water and doesn’t melt in hot weather? Like commercial products are
I’ve made many products that meet that description, including one less than a month ago 🙂 Search “cleansing cream” at https://www.humblebeeandme.com/search. Happy making!