Niacinamide—also known as Vitamin B3—is a potent, effective, and popular active ingredient with amazing brightening and barrier-boosting skincare benefits. But, it can be a bit intimidating to work with. So, if you’ve been wanting to start formulating with niacinamide but haven’t been sure where to start, you’re in the right place. Let’s get started 😄

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What is niacinamide (Vitamin B3)?

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is an awesome skincare active. It’s well studied, effective, stable, generally non-irritating, and relatively inexpensive. Benefits include down regulating sebum production, reducing inflammation, decreasing acne lesions, increasing ceramide synthesis, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) & fine lines, fading age spots and hyperpigmentation, and brightening the complexion.

What formulation considerations should you keep in mind when working with niacinamide?

Niacinamide is pretty easy to work with. Niacinamide is water soluble, so if you want it to dissolve, water is required. This can be distilled water or a mostly water ingredient like a hydrosol, aloe vera juice, or witch hazel (or a blend!).

Niacinamide can also be used in powdered formulations (like a powdered face mask or cleanser that is activated by adding water). You could include it in a suspension style formulation like this, but given how stable it is in hydrous solutions, I wouldn’t bother unless there’s another far less stable ingredient in the formulation (like Ascorbic acid).

Does niacinamide need a specific pH to be safe & effective?

You might’ve read that formulations containing niacinamide have to be in the 5.5–6 range or it can cause skin irritation. This relatively narrow range scares people away from formulating with niacinamide, especially if they don’t have a pH meter.

From my reading, this worry about skin irritation at lower pHs isn’t terribly applicable to skincare. Basically, in order for niacinamide to start breaking down into niacin with any speed, the pH needs to be far more acidic than 5.5—we’re talking levels of acidity that you wouldn’t want anywhere near your skin!

For more information, I highly recommend reading these posts from professional cosmetic chemists:

• • Using Niacinamide in an acidic formulation from Realize Beauty
  • Can you use Niacinamide and Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) together? from Kind of Stephen
  • Niacinamide and Its Breakdown into Niacin from Kind of Stephen
  • Niacinamide and Low Ph – is the science settled? from Chemists Corner
  • Niacinamide question from Chemists Corner

But basically, you don’t need to worry too much about the pH of your niacinamide formulations. If they’re in a good place for the skin—roughly 4.5–6—that’s great. That’s roughly where these formulations will land when made as written. If you have a pH meter and can test the pH, awesome—but I wanted these formulations to be as begginer friendly as possible, so I chose a preservative that works across a really broad range and went easy on the citric acid that brings down the pH so we’ll reliably end up in a safe range (as long as you don’t change anything).

Where can I get all the ingredients?

YellowBee has very kindly put together a kit of all the ingredients (minus the distilled water; you’ll want to pick that up at a local grocery store) you’ll need to make the formulations shared on this page! You can find that kit here. For just under $55CAD (~$41USD) you’ll get enough ingredients to make 400g of each formulation, plus two bottles for each (so you can make the kit with a friend if you want to!).

If YellowBee doesn’t ship to you, the ingredients I’ve used in these formulations are pretty common in the DIY world, so the chances that you can find them all from one DIY specialty shop are pretty good. Check out my massive list of places to purchase DIY ingredients around the world to get started 😊

Formulation #1

The ingredients

Distilled water

This is what forms the bulk of the formulation; it dilutes the hyaluronic acid to an effective level and hydrates the skin. You can have a lot of fun with the distilled water portion of a formulation (as seen in formulation #3!). Swap ~20% of the distilled water for ingredients that are almost entirely water (but a bit fancy), like hydrosols/distillates, aloe vera juice, or witch hazel.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Our star ingredient! We’ll be using 4% niacinamide in the first three formulations.

Niacinamide is typically used in the 2–6% range, though I’ve seen recommendations as low as 0.05% and as high as 10%. If you wanted to use more or less niacinamide you’d simply adjust the distilled water to keep everything in balance.

Glycerin

This inexpensive humectant provides a hydrating boost; I’ve kept the level low to reduce tackiness potential. You could use Propanediol 1,3 instead. Sodium Lactate will also work, but that will throw off the pH of the formulation, so don’t make this swap unless you have a pH meter and can test and adjust the pH of the finished formulation.

Citric acid solution

A simple 50% solution of citric acid and distilled water brings the pH of these formulations down to a good-for-skin range; pretty reliably right around 5.5. If you make these formulations as-written, you don’t have to test the pH.

I chose a conservative amount of citric acid for newer makers who don’t have a pH meter, but if you do have a pH meter you could use more citric acid and aim for a lower pH (closer to 4.5).

To make this solution, simply combine equal parts (by weight!) citric acid and distilled water. Stir, allow the mixture to dissolve, and that’s it. Be sure to wear gloves and eye protection as this solution will be very acidic.

You could use a different acid (lactic acid being the most likely one) to adjust the pH of these formulations, but you’ll need a pH meter in order to determine how much you’ll need. I chose citric acid instead of lactic acid as citric acid is often easier to get.

Preservative

Because this formulation contains water, it requires a broad-spectrum preservative. I’m using Liquid Germall™ Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) as it’s very easy to use and works brilliant in hydrous formulations like this one.

You could use a different water soluble preservative instead of Liquid Germall™ Plus; Geogard Ultra™ should work, but it will throw off the pH of the formulation, so don’t make this swap unless you have a pH meter and can test and adjust the pH of the finished formulation to ensure the pH is in a good place for your skin and the preservative.

Preservatives based around phenoxyethanol (Optiphen™, Optiphen Plus™, Euxyl® PE 9010, etc.) and/or benzyl alcohol (Geogard® ECT, Euxyl™ k 903, Preservative Eco, Plantaserv M, etc.) won’t work well in any of these formulations.

Learn more: The Humblebee & Me Preservatives Table

The Formulation

5-Ingredient Mist

46.72g | 93.44% distilled water
2g | 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3) (USA / Canada)
1g | 2% vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
0.03g | 0.06% 50% citric acid (USA / Canada) solution
0.25g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)

Weigh everything into a beaker, and stir to combine. That’s it!

This solution is quite thin, so I recommend packaging it in a mister bottle. If you don’t want to mist it, bottles with an eye dropper top or an orifice reducer are a good choice.

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Formulation #2

The ingredients

Panthenol (Vitamin B5)

We’re doubling up on the B-vitamin goodness by adding some panthenol (Vitamin B5) to this formulation. Panthenol is fabulous, and one of my favourite skincare (and haircare!) ingredients. It is moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and boosts healing. I think it complements its B3 sister nicely 😄

I’m using powdered panthenol (Vitamin B5) in all these formulations; if yours is liquid please follow the instructions in the “How to Work with It” section of the free Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia entry on panthenol (Vitamin B5).

Soft xanthan gum

A small amount of soft (or clear) xanthan gum gives this second formulation a slight viscosity boost, resulting in a finished product that feels richer and more serum-y. If you only have regular xanthan gum I’d use half the amount, adjusting the distilled water to keep the formulation adding up to 100%.

If you don’t have any sort of xanthan gum you can try a different gelling ingredient or gum instead; I think a 1-for-1 swap to Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax ZEN), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Aristoflex AVC), Hydroxyethylcellulose, or Solagum AX could work well. Other gelling ingredients could work well, too—try it and see!

The Formulation

7-Ingredient Soothing Serum

1g | 2% vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)
0.15g | 0.3% xanthan gum (soft) (USA / Canada)

45.07g | 90.14% distilled water
2g | 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3) (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)
0.03g | 0.06% 50% citric acid (USA / Canada) solution

Weigh the soft xanthan gum, glycerin, and Liquid Germall™ Plus into a beaker. Stir to combine.

Add the remaining ingredients; stir.

Cover and leave the mixture to allow the soft xanthan gum time to hydrate and activate.

After 20–30 minutes the soft xanthan gum should be all hydrated. Stir the mixture until uniform, and then it’s ready to package!

This formulation is noticeably thicker than the 5-ingredient one, but it’s still pretty fluid. I recommend a bottle fitted with an orifice reducer, a treatment pump cap, or an eye dropper top for formulations with this level of viscosity.

Formulation #3: 9 Ingredients

The ingredients

Hydrosol

 A hydrosol—or a blend of hydrosols—easily adds scent to the serum. I love using hydrosols to scent hydrous formulations like this one as you don’t have to worry about solubilizing (as you would with oil-soluble essential oils and fragrance oils), which can get sticky, and you also don’t have to worry about maximum usage rates. Hydrosols are easy to use, gentle, and generally lovely.

I used a blend of lavender & rosemary hydrosols for my serum, but other lovely options include rose, sweetgrass, orange, and neroli. You could also use witch hazel or aloe vera juice; have fun with it!

If you prefer an unscented final product, feel free to replace the hydrosol with more distilled water.

Learn more: What’s up with hydrosols, distillates, and floral waters?

Hyaluronic acid

Some moisturizing hyaluronic acid boosts the humectant-y goodness of the formulation + amps up the luxury factor.

There are two main challenges when working with hyaluronic acid: it’s sloooooow to hydrate, and is pricey (approximately $5–7USD/g as of early 2023).

The slow-to-dissolve challenge is solved by making a large-ish batch of a 1% stock solution of hyaluronic acid so it’s ready to use whenever you want to create something with it. I generally make a few month’s worth at a time; roughly 100g. If your formulation includes 10% of your 1% hyaluronic acid stock, the final formulation contains 0.1% hyaluronic acid; 20% hyaluronic acid = 0.2% hyaluronic acid in the overall formulation; etc.

Start Here: How to make a 1% hyaluronic acid stock

Hyaluronic acid is available in a variety of different weights—basically, how big the molecule is. I’ve used a high molecular weight in this formulation, but you’re welcome to use whatever you want (or a blend of multiple weights). Check out this article from Simple Skincare Science to learn more.

Learn More: Hyaluronic Acid for Skin Explained (25 Studies): EVERYTHING You Need to Know! from Simple Skincare Science

Because my 1% hyaluronic acid stock contains 0.5% Liquid Germall™ Plus, that means this formulation already contains 0.1% Liquid Germall™ Plus (20% x 0.5% = 0.1%). To keep the usage rate within the maximum recommended range, I’m dropping the Liquid Germall™ Plus down to 0.4% for a formulation total of 0.5%.

The Formulation

9-Ingredient Hydrating + Soothing Serum

1g | 2% vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
0.15g | 0.3% xanthan gum (soft) (USA / Canada)
0.2g | 0.4% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)

25.12g | 50.24% distilled water
10g | 20% high molecular weight 1% hyaluronic acid solution (USA / Canada)
10g | 20% hydrosol of choice
2g | 4% niacinamide (vitamin B3) (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)
0.03g | 0.06% 50% citric acid (USA / Canada) solution

Weigh the soft xanthan gum, glycerin, and Liquid Germall™ Plus into a beaker. Stir to combine.

Add the remaining ingredients; stir.

Cover and leave the mixture to allow the soft xanthan gum time to hydrate and activate.

After 20–30 minutes the soft xanthan gum should be all hydrated. Stir the mixture until uniform, and then it’s ready to package!

This formulation is noticeably thicker than the 5-ingredient one, but it’s still pretty fluid. I recommend a bottle fitted with an orifice reducer, a treatment pump cap, or an eye dropper top for formulations with this level of viscosity.

Formulation #4

Our fourth formulation can be found here: Brighten & Boost Facial Serum. This formulation lives up to its name, featuring the powerful brightening duo of niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG), plus a collection of ingredients to boost barrier performance and keep the skin hydrated, calm, and happy.

Other questions

How long will these serums last?

These serums should easily last at least a year—likely closer to 2.

How should I use these serums?

I like to apply my niacinamide (Vitamin B3) serums after cleansing and before oil serums and/or creams. In the summer I love to use the mist whenever I’m feeling hot and could use a bit of topical refreshment.

For best results, I do recommend following up these serums (and any watery serums/toners/solutions) with a cream or oil serum to help keep the hydration in.

Is niacinamide (Vitamin B3) considered natural?

Yes.

Is niacinamide (Vitamin B3) vegan?

Yes.

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Relevant links & further reading

• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Panthenol (Vitamin B5) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Hyaluronic Acid in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Vegetable Glycerin in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Liquid Germall Plus in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Distilled water in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Xanthan Gum in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Citric Acid in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• Watch glass in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
• What’s up with hydrosols, distillates, and floral waters? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
• How long will ______ last? What is its shelf life? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
• Can I use a different preservative than the one you’ve used? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
• pH
  • pH meter in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
  • pH measurement in cosmetic lab: why we dilute samples? from Skin Chakra
  • How to adjust the pH of your cosmetic products from Skin Chakra
  • Why do you create a 10% dilution of a formulation before measuring the pH? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
• More formulations that use niacinamide (Vitamin B3):
  • Brightening Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide Facial Serum
  • Gentle Low-Lather Face Cleanser
  • Ultra-Light Summer Face Cream
  • Brightening Gel Serum
  • Natural Oil-Free Turmeric Face Lotion
  • Skin Brightening Toner Mist
  • Moisturizing Repair Lotion