I have a constant New Years/Birthday/name any occasion resolution to stop touching my face. I am not very good at it. I’m an absent-minded chin-stroker, and it does absolutely no favours for my complexion. It’s infuriating. Anyhow, I have come to realize that part of convincing myself not to touch/itch/pick at stuff on my face is convincing myself that I am doing other things that are more helpful. This Even Better Zit Drying Lotion stuff is awesome. I’ve been using version 1.0 (which was inspired by a pricey shop-bought version) for a while, and it’s great, so I wanted to up my game—and here we are.
The liquidy part is now witch hazel and herb infused vodka, plus some healing aloe vera and soothing allantoin (USA / Canada). The herbs infused in the vodka are calendula and white willow bark; calendula helps boost healing, and white willow bark contains salicin, a pre-cursor of salicylic acid, which is awesome for battling acne.
The herb infused vodka is exactly the same stuff I used in this recipe, so if you’ve made it, you might already have it on hand! And if not—now you can make that recipe much more easily 😉 The infused vodka is easy to make; just combine two teaspoons of each white willow bark and calendula petals with 60mL/half a cup of vodka in a mason jar, seal it, and let everything infuse for at least 24 hours. Longer is great; mine is about two years old! Make sure you strain it before use.
The powdery bit at the bottom is basically calamine lotion that’s been hydrated with our lovely mixture of acne blasting ingredients. The pink hue of it isn’t hugely important in terms of performance, so I added some yellow to help make it a bit more skin-toned so it’s not as obvious on your skin if you happen to want to wear it during the day (at home… it’s not so camouflaged I’d recommend leaving the house with it on!). A hint of camphor powder helps reduce any pain, soreness, or itching you might have from a lurking blemish—a major bonus for me.
After using this diligently for several weeks, I swear it helps. If I have a lurker or a pore that looks like it might decide to be a jerk in a day or two, on goes the drying lotion for the night (or the day, if I don’t have anywhere to go). Combined with some self control (NO SQUEEZING!), this stuff is seriously helping my complexion. Whenever I want to pick or squeeze, I put some of this on instead. Give this even better zit drying lotion a try!
This is right after making it; you can see some sediment floating around.
This is after about 24 hours of settling time.
Even Better Zit Drying Lotion
4 tsp calendula and white willow bark infused vodka (see pre-amble for the how-to)
4 tsp witch hazel
1/4 tsp vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
1/64 tsp 200x aloe vera powder (I use these tiny measuring spoons for tiny measurements like this)
1/32 tsp allantoin (USA / Canada) (optional)
0.2g | 0.007oz liquid germall plus (or other broad spectrum preservative of choice at the correct concentration [why?])3/4 tsp zinc oxide
1/4 tsp titanium dioxide
1/64 tsp red iron oxide
1/32 tsp yellow iron oxide
1/16 tsp camphor powderFor this project you’ll need a shorter jar or bottle that holds about 45mL/1.5 fl oz. It needs to be short enough that you can dip a cotton bud down to the bottom of it.
Whisk the infused vodka, witch hazel, glycerin, aloe vera powder, allantoin (USA / Canada), and preservative together in a small bowl.
Measure the zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and camphor powder into your DIY-specific coffee grinder. Put on your dust mask and blend everything together for about a minute. The camphor powder tends to be a bit moist and clumpy, so you’ll need to blend everything a couple times, stopping to stir and scrape things down between blendings, to really get that moisture thoroughly blended throughout the dry powder. Once you have a dry, uniform, fine powder, you’re done!
Use a funnel to transfer the powder into the bottom of your jar/bottle, and then gently pour in the liquids. You want a layer of powder at the bottom of the jar with the liquid on top, so don’t shake it up, just leave the powders to wet out and settle down. After a few days some of the colour from the infused alcohol will also settle down towards the bottom of the jar.
To use, dip a cotton bud down through everything, soaking it in the herb infused liquid and then picking up some pasty calamine zit-blasting goodness as well. Dab that pink goo over any problem spots, specifically anything sore that seems like it might be irksome in the morning. Leave it on while you sleep, and wipe off whatever is left in the morning.
Don’t apply this to broken skin.
Don’t have camphor powder? Weirdly enough, it’s water soluble, meaning it’ll easily stay in the water solution nicely without any shaking required. You should be able to use camphor oil instead (I’d start with about 10 drops), but you’ll also need an oil-in-water emulsifier like polysorbate 20 (USA / Canada) or Turkey Red Oil. Do not skip this! This product cannot be shaken before use, so if you have to shake your bottle to get the camphor essential oil to incorporate, you’re destroying the effect. I’d recommend using extra emulsifier to be extra safe—perhaps 1/4 tsp total.
I really need to buy some aloe Vera powder, I’ve seeen so many great recipes using it!
If I don’t have vodka on hand (we’re a tequila family :P) can I just use isopropyl, or is that too high proof (potentially irritating?)
Also another question: why no shaking? I was considering putting this into a roll-on format (since I have tons of those and nothing to put in them). You’re still grabbing some calamine from the bottom to rub on as well, so it seems like shaking would help it suspend for application?
You don’t want it suspended because then it’ll be far too diluted; you want to end up with a wee face mask type dot, so you need the powder to be concentrated at the bottom. If you use a roller I’m pretty sure the powder will clog it and you won’t get the desired effect. Sorry!
I wouldn’t use neat isopropyl (99.9%) as it is far too harsh. I use it for prepping my nails for gel manicures and it is really drying (well, it’s meant to do that). I would be interested whether you could just thin down isopropyl alcohol with water as I don’t want to sacrifice my nice rum for cosmetics.
I’d probably just use 3 tsp of 99.9% and an extra tsp of witch hazel to dilute it down—maybe even 2 tsp/2tsp if your skin is sensitive 🙂
Can you please tell me the alternative of vodka or alcohol
There isn’t one, I’m afraid.
Aloe vera powder is so useful! And most aloe vera juice you purchase is re-hydrated from aloe powder anyways, so it makes much more sense to buy the powder as it actually works out to be cheaper in most cases (and will have a longer shelf life since it doesn’t have water in it yet).
I’d think 70% isopropyl would be ok, but I would dilute 99.9% (try 3 tsp alcohol and an extra tsp of witch hazel).
Marie,
Just curious…why the preservative? Due to the botanical infusion? Or just a precaution due to the fact that you’ll be dipping q-tips into it? I need to make this, stat! I’ve not stopped breaking out since this summer. My poor chin and nose need some help! Thanks for an awesome recipe!
Belinda
You don’t need an extra preservative. The only ingredients in the water phase is alcohol, witch hazel, and glycerin. Glycerin does not need a preservative (things can’t grow in it), witch hazel is usually preserved when you buy it, but even if it isn’t, you are adding alcohol to the recipe which also acts as a preservative.
Hey! Do you have any solid scientific sources to back this up? The presence of a preservative an an ingredient in no way means you don’t need a preservative in a final product, nor does its shelf life as a solo ingredient (think water + flour + salt + yeast; all have very long/indefinite shelf lives solo, but when combined that bread will definitely mould!). Depending on the strength of vodka being used it may help preserve this recipe, but with so much tasty bug food in it (aloe, allantoin, herbs), I wouldn’t want to count on it. I’d recommend giving this a read 🙂 I’m not trying to be rude, I just don’t want anyone to get an infection!
Hey Belinda! There’s a preservative because there’s lots of water and bug food in here—tasty herbs, aloe, and allantoin (plus our kitchens are not sterile). And then, yes, you will be continually dipping into an open jar, and with that there’s always the chance of additional contamination. Depending on the strength of the vodka you use the alcohol content may help preserve the mixture, but I really can’t be sure with all that bug food, so better safe than sorry!
I don’t have a problem with using preservatives, I was just curious since I didn’t see water specifically mentioned in the recipe. I, too, would rather be safe than sorry. I have no desire to spread nasty beasties anywhere on my body!
Ah yes—witch hazel = 99.9% water 🙂 Same goes with hydrosols, aloe juice, etc. Just ’cause it doesn’t say water doesn’t mean it isn’t mostly water (think tea, coffee, etc.) 🙂
I made this recipe up so long ago after finding your site just because it looked fun to do! Not because I get many breakouts at the age of 55. But I had a rogue lurking at the end of my nose ready to pop out so out came the lotion and put a dot on your before going to bed. Wake up in the morning and all gone – yippee! Followed it up with my all time favourite soothing facial lotion and ready to go and face the world! Thanks Marie!
Woohoo! I’m so thrilled to hear it 😀 You’re making me think I should whip up another batch—I don’t think this one survived my move!
What else can I use beside vodka
Could I use rubbing alcohol ?
Yup! I’d probably aim for the ~70% stuff rather than the 99.9% stuff to be a bit closer to the concentration of vodka, though 🙂
Hello! Good morning! Is there calamine lotion/powder in this recipe?
Zinc oxide + red oxide = calamine powder 😉
No way! I have almost all the ingredients! *dances away*
Hold the iPad for a moment….. would this work on mosquito bites and other itches like nettle/poison oak?
It should! You may find it a bit drying for those purposes, but that might also be helpful 🙂
Is there a reason you use a vodka infusion here and a tea-like water based mixture in other recipes, like the Houdini cream? Does it just mix better with the other ingredients? Planning on experimenting some with this and some of your other acne treatments, but I want to know ahead of time if certain types of infusions aren’t good with certain ingredients so I don’t waste product if it doesn’t work! 🙂
Hey El! I used vodka here because I wanted this to be drying (to dry out the zits), and alcohol is drying. That works well for acne fighting here because we’re working with small areas that need some concentrated, drying attention. You don’t want to use alcohol in lotions ’cause it does the opposite of what a lotion is supposed to be doing (hydrating the skin). I’d also be concerned about the stability of the emulsion if alcohol is used in large amounts 🙂 You could include a few drops of an alcohol tincture/infusion to be sure, but you can get a lot more of the herb into a lotion if you infuse them in water. Happy making!
Hi Marie, could I use a tiny bit of menthol crystal instead of the camphor powder? It’s antibacterial isn’t it? Finding some things for your recipes hard to source,so trying to think of alternatives.
Thanks Marie.
No—menthol crystals are oil soluble, so they won’t dissolve. I’d just leave the camphor out if you can’t get it.
Great Thanks Marie. Hope you have a great Easter
Ooh is there anything else I could use to reduce the pain/soreness instead of the camphor Marie?
Thank you.
I can’t think of anything water soluble :/
Actually, Menthol crystals are a very interesting substance from a chemical view point. Most substances which dissolve in oils will not dissolve in water, however Menthol is very soluble in oil AND alcohol (along with chloroform and ether, but that’s beyond the scope of my DIY desires). So although this comment comes way after the question was posed, there’s an answer. I’d say go ahead and try the menthol. Worst case scenario, they fall to the bottom of your jar.
Hi Marie,
Im trying so many of your recipes! Just waiting for the final shipment of goodies for the recipes in your book; next weekend is going to be make up fun!
For this particular recipe, how much aloe vera juice would you use in place of powder? As it is such a small amount of powder (1/64 tsp) diluting in the liquid, perhaps reducing the witch hazel by 1 or 2 tsp and replacing them with the juice would suffice? Obviously we want to have the benefits of both.
Thanks in advance.
P.s. love your blog and your book!
Yup, that sounds right! I’d choose between 1 or 2 tsp based on what your skin needs more of—soothing aloe or astringent witch hazel 🙂 Happy making and thanks for reading!
Could the Calendula/White Willow Bark infusion (maybe with some tea tree oil) be an effective roll on spot treatment on it’s own? I’m looking for the lazy girl route 🙂
I found your site this past week and have been binge browsing all the recipes! Such an awesome resource, I was oblivious to the need for preservatives, etc. before
I worry it may be rather harsh—in this concoction it is diluted in other liquids and contains soothing ingredients to temper the effect. Irritation is the enemy of the skin, so honestly, I’d say don’t do it. You don’t want to piss off your skin when it’s already angry—in my experience acne responds much better to love than war 🙂
What is calamine used for in this recipe?
Can i just skip the calamine and use up the liquidy stuff in roll on bottle?
It helps soothe and calm; you can eliminate the red iron oxide, but I would keep the zinc oxide.
I have some Salicylic acid powder. I’d like to use it in this recipe instead of the willow bark. Should I dissolve it first?
You’d have to, yes, but please make sure you’re watching the maximum usage rate and the pH of the end product to ensure it is safe and effective.
Hi Marie, looks like great recipe. I need to try this for my acne. How can I subtitute with willow bark extract and witch hazel extract? Also, can I subtitute vodka with rubbing alcohol (100% purity)?
Hello Aisyah!
That blog post is from 2016, and HumbleBee&Me has come a long way since then! In Marie’s 6th Anniversary Post, Marie speaks about hydrocolloid bandages. They are the absolute rock stars of the spot/acne scene!