Today we’re blending up a product I’ve had a lot of requests for! I’m calling this pale green lotion Happy Hemp Hand Cream, and it was inspired by The Body Shop’s Hemp Hand Protector. My version is a bit lighter and more slippy, but it still includes many of the same star ingredients. I think you and your hands will love it 😊
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The water phase for this Happy Hemp Hand Cream is very simple; just distilled water, moisturizing vegetable glycerin, and skin-soothing panthenol (Vitamin B5). If you wanted to spice things up a bit you could swap 20–30% of the distilled water for a hydrosol and/or aloe vera juice. You could also swap some (or all) of the vegetable glycerin for a homemade glycerite!
Our oil phase stars hemp seed oil. I used green, unrefined hemp seed oil, which lends a soft green tint to the finished cream along with a mild grassy scent. I’ve also included some rich castor oil and beeswax—both inclusions inspired the original product from The Body Shop. These two ingredients can be a bit sticky, so I also included some coco caprylate. This is an ingredient I’ve had for quite a while; I purchased it from Les Âmes Fleurs, who sells it as “Coco Silicone“. It’s a lovely, super-light ester that can be used as a silicone alternative, helping to reduce any soaping and improve slip. It reminds me of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and I really like it!
I’ve used Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate to emulsify this cream, but you could easily use a more common emulsifying wax like Polawax or Olivem1000 instead. Read this blog post to learn how swapping the emulsifier will impact the formulation.
The finished cream is quite thick—thick enough that I wouldn’t recommend a pump top bottle. I put two batches in jars and one in a squeeze tube, and both of those options worked out beautifully. Despite how thick it is, it’s surprisingly lightweight, and has amazing slip and glide on the skin. When you watch the video you’ll see a dollop easily spreads over both my hands and up to my elbows!
Relevant links & further reading
- Vegetable Glycerin in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Xanthan Gum in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Cetearyl Alcohol in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Hemp Seed Oil in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Castor Oil in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Coco-Caprylate in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Beeswax in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Castor Oil in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Tocopherol (Vitamin E) in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Allantoin in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- Can I use this product on a part of my body other than where the title suggests? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- Preservatives table
- Preservatives + Shelf Life in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- How long will ______ last? What is its shelf life? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- Can I use a different preservative than the one you’ve used? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
- pH
- pH meter in the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia
- pH measurement in cosmetic lab: why we dilute samples? from Skin Chakra
- How to adjust the pH of your cosmetic products from Skin Chakra
- Why do you create a 10% dilution of a formulation before measuring the pH? in the Humblebee & Me FAQ
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Happy Hemp Hand Cream
Heated water phase
59.25g | 59.25% distilled water
15g | 15%vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 1.5% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)
0.15g | 0.15% xanthan gumHeated oil phase
3g | 3% Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (USA / Canada / UK & EU / Australia)
4g | 4% cetearyl alcohol (USA / Canada)
6g | 6% hemp seed oil (USA / Canada)
5g | 5% coco-caprylate (USA / Canada / UK / EU / NZ)
3g | 3% castor oil (USA / Canada)
1g | 1% beeswax (USA / Canada)Cool down phase
1.5g | 1.5% Optiphen™ Plus (USA / Canada)
0.3g | 0.3% allantoin (USA / Canada)
0.3g | 0.3% Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a wide, flat-bottomed sauté pan.
Weigh the heated water phase into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup or glass beaker. Weigh the entire lot (measuring cup + ingredients) and note that weight for use later. Weigh the heated oil phase into a second heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place both measuring cups in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.
After about 20–30 minutes the oil part should be completely melted and the water part should be thoroughly dissolved. Remove the water bath from the heat and weigh the water phase. Add enough hot distilled water to the heated water phase to bring the weight back up to what it was before heating, and then pour the water part into the oil part. Stir with a flexible silicone spatula to incorporate.
Grab your immersion blender and begin blending the lotion, starting with short bursts so the still-very-liquid lotion doesn’t whirl up and spray everywhere. Blend for about a minute, leave to cool for ten, blend for another minute or two, and repeat this blend-cool-blend cycle until the outside of the glass measuring cup is barely warm to the touch and the lotion is thick and creamy.
When the lotion is cool it’s time to incorporate our cool down ingredients. Because cool down ingredients are typically present at very low amounts you’ll need to use an accurate scale—preferably one accurate to 0.01g. As these more accurate scales tend to have fairly low (100–200g) maximum weights you won’t be able to put the entire batch of lotion on that scale without blowing it out. So—grab a smaller dish. Add a scoop or two of lotion, and then weigh the cool down ingredients into that, using the more accurate scale. Stir to thoroughly incorporate, and then stir all of that back into the master batch of lotion. Doing it this way minimizes the amount of cool down ingredients lost to the secondary container.
Once the cool down phase has been incorporated, all that’s left to do is package it up!
When made as written this cream has a pH ~4.6–5, which is great for our skin and the preservative. If you change anything I recommend testing the pH yourself to ensure it is still around 5.5.
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this cream contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative, this project may eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 100g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this formulation, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there! If I have not given a specific substitution suggestion in this list (panthenol, allantoin, vitamin E) please look up the ingredient in the encyclopedia before asking.
- You could try replacing the glycerin with propanediol 1,3.
- You can use other emulsifying waxes like Ritamulse SCG (Emulsimulse, ECOMulse), Emulsifying Wax NF, Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-20 (also known as Emulsifying Wax Soft & Silky), BTMS-25, BTMS-50, and Olivem 1000 instead of Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate. Changing the emulsifier will change the skin feel, and depending on the emulsifier, you may find the emulsion thickens faster, making it harder to create a smooth final product.
- If you don’t have cetearyl alcohol you could try splitting the 4% between cetyl alcohol and stearic acid.
- Please don’t replace the hemp seed oil—it’s the key/named ingredient in this formulation. You could, but that’s like replacing the peanut butter in a peanut butter sandwich.
- C12-15 alkyl benzoate will work instead of coco caprylate. You could also try isopropyl myristate (IPM), Isoamyl cocoate, Isoamyl laurate, or a natural silicone alternative, just be sure to check which phase it should go in and do that.
- Other slightly-less-light & slippy alternatives include Medium chain triglycerides, Neossance® Hemisqualane, and Olive Squalane.
- You could use more hemp seed oil instead of castor oil.
- You could try a “C” wax instead of beeswax. I think berry wax and bayberry wax would be better alternatives than the C-waxes as their feel is closer to that of beeswax, but I know they’re a bit harder to find.
- You can try a different gum instead of xanthan; guar gum and hydroxyethylcellulose should both work well. You could also use soft or clear xanthan gum.
- If you’re like to use a different preservative, please review this FAQ and this chart.
- If you’d like to incorporate an essential oil, please read this.
Gifting Disclosure
The wide white jar and squeeze tottle were both gifted by YellowBee. The Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate was gifted by Mystic Moments.
Hi, such a lovely cream… just wonder about adding xanthan gum to the oil phase! it is usually added to the water phase so is this a new method?
It’s not particularly new; I explain why in the video around the 02:50 point 🙂
Hi Marie, I am using a preserved hydrosol and preserved HA with germall plus. Since both ingredients go in the heating water phase, will the preservative in them still active after heating? How should I calculate my preservative in the cool phase. I am using germall plus in the formula too. Many thanks
Hi Marie, I love your website and I had a question for you if you don’t me asking under this post. I wonder when I look at some of my favorite face oils, the brands mix like 12 oils, how is that possible without it being thick? I tried mixing a few oils and the texture was so bad and the smell was off! Could you make a video showing a mixture of many oils together? Thanks! God Bless!
Mixing a bunch of thin liquids together will result in a thin liquid, so mixing multiple liquid oils usually results in a liquid product. If you didn’t like the texture/scent of your blend I recommend learning more about each oil to identify which one (or ones) was the problem. Watch this for more info 🙂
Hi Marie!
This is my husband’s new favorite ointment. He uses it on his leg, which since it became infected with a dangerous bacteria has a very fragile skin. I have reduced the glycerine content to 10% and added 5% urea.
Delicious ointment!
Thanks!
I’m so thrilled to hear it! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Hi Marie! Thanks for another amazing recipe. I was wondering, if I want to use Geogard ECT as my preservative, could I use 1% Geogard ECT and 0.9% Phenoxyethanol for extra protection long term. I’ve been scouring the Internet and I can’t find anything that says this isn’t safe so I would love to get your opinion. Would it be overkill?
I would try it without the phenoxyethanol first and see if you need it; I don’t think you will if you use the maximum amount of ECT 🙂 Happy making!
Hi Marie,
I absolutely loveeeee your post, Marie! You provide such great details and step-by-step guide on making this handcream. I am going to trying making this next weekend. Quick question- Besides using hemp oil, would you recommend adding any other oils that have anti-ageing purpose? I notice my hand is extremely dry and I am starting to see fine-lines 🙁 I read that rosehip and marula oil seem to be good options. https://sowourplanet.com/marula-oil-vs-rosehip-oil/
I really appreciate your help in advance!!!
Eva
What a lovely hand lotion! And I had all the ingredients, just hanging around without purpose… except coco silicone (replaced it with MCT-oil) and emulsifier (used xyliance instead + 2 % cetearyl and cetyl alcohols). Mine takes some time to absorb and doesn’t have massive slip. Still, it feels surprisingly light weight and represents all summery things to me. Combination of blue tansy (0,1 %) and hemp is kinda lovely!
Can’t wait to try hemp body lotion – kiss version I made is very neat moisturizing low viscosity lotion. Not exactly easy task to formulate so congratulations for amazing work! xx
Hi Marie, how come you are adding your allantoin right into the cream? How will it dissolve in cream? Thank you.
Because it works 🙂 Have you read the Humblebee & Me DIY Encyclopedia (https://www.humblebeeandme.com/diy-encyclopedia/) entry on allantoin? Happy making!
Hello Marie! I only made one substitution in this recipe. I subbed the coco caprylate with squalane. This cream is incredible, but it’s a bit sticky. Is it the beeswax? Should I swap it out?
Oh wow what a difference does the coco caprylate make! I couldn’t believe it at first. Squalane and MCT oil where quite different in ealier batch. But I liked the lotion a lot and finished it quickly.
Your advice useing 5 % emulsifying wax (like polawax) and 2 % cetearyl alcohol was highly helpful (followed it on my second batch useing xyliance).
IMO this lotion is fantastic (both first and second batches) because it is rich in glycerine, it feels thick and creamy on skin, is easy to make (just few bursts with SB), doesn’t cost much money, is carefully formulated, smells mild and grassy (A says it’s like grass/lawn after rain) and joy to apply on skin thanks to glide’y texture. Mine contains 0,2 % blue tansy eo rather expectedly. I need to try this as face lotion too.
We both like second batch. esspecially. It feels pretty slippy and light-weight and leaves powdery skinfeel etc (from coco silicone) – unique, cool features for a thick cream! And I absolutely love the ingredients you’ve selected (my staples). I noticed that polarity of oils and some preservatives can affect on viscosity/ texture of lotions – def positive way here. xx
HI Marie I’m new to DIY’ing but loving your stuff. Have learnt soooo much from all your really excellent tips and guides, encyclopedia etc. I have been a user of the BDS Hemp Hand Protector for years and have to say that my first batch of your recipe produced a better product!!!! Subbed the coco-caprylate for Hemisqualane. Love it
I similarly make a hemp handcream – I use hemp butter, rather than hemp oil. Mine was also inspired by the Body Shop version! It’s a very thick, rich cream, which is a night-time one for extra dry hands and I put cotton gloves over the top.
Mine is:
#1 (34%)
11% hemp butter
7% calendula-infused grapeseed oil
7% Coco-Caprylate-Caprate
5% Peg Stearate
4% cetyl alcohol
#2 (58.5%)
48% water
5% Propandial 1.3
2% Inulin (pre-biotic)
2% Niaccimide
1% D-Panthenol
0.5% hydrocellulose
#3 (7.5%)
2.5% hydrolysed wheat proteins
2% Saccharide Isomerate
1% green tea extract
1% eco preservative
0.5% vitamin E
0.25% lavender essential oil
0.25% benzoin pourable
Thanks for sharing! ❤️
I’m not sure why, but Coco-Caprylate-Caprate seems to be far more expensive in Canada. Your link shows 250ml costing $32.15, which is £18.34, or $128.60/£75.46 per litre.
I bought mine from The Formulary in the UK for a third of this price – £26 / litre
https://www.theformulary.co.uk/product/coco-caprylate-caprate/
Yup, different ingredients can vary wildly in cost in different parts of the world. I’m not sure why either.
I cant tell you how over the moon happy I was to find this formulation!! Thank you for sharing it.
I do have a question about the coco-caprylate. Can I switch it out with Isoamyl Laurate? I cant get my hands on any coco-caprylate atm (am in Aus) and saw that this is very similar. Do you think that would be a suitable swap?
Hi Krystel! You can definitely do that 🙂 Happy making!
So … stupid question: is Coco Caprylate Caprate the same thing as Coco Caprylate? I got it from Making Cosmetics.
It’s not exactly the same thing, but I don’t think you’d notice a difference 🙂