I keep hearing about aloe and shealoe (shea + aloe) butters, and they confuse me. You see, aloe is water soluble, so somewhere in that butter there is some sort of wizardry going on, because aloe is patently not a butter. That’s about as ridiculous as the idea of celery butter. New Directions explains the creation of their aloe butter as “developed from the extraction of the Aloe Vera pulp using a fatty coconut fraction to produce a soft-solid butter”. Huh. That sounds suspiciously wizard-like.
I wanted something that’s moisturizing and awesome, that utilizes all the great qualities of both unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada) and aloe vera that didn’t require chemical wizardry (or the rather steep price tag that often accompanies such wizardry—$23/kg vs. $8/kg for plain unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada)). Making some homemade shealoe butter cream myself also put me in charge of any preservatives.
You won’t be hard pressed to find recipes for some sort of shealoe butter online, but the ones I found all used processed aloe vera gel, and contained no emulsifiers. I’m assuming there must have been something emulsifying in the store bought gel as they seemed to work out in the end, but that’s not my style.
Mine isn’t a butter, really—butters are all fats. No shealoe butter is really going to be a true butter without some chemical wizardry thanks to aloe’s water soluble nature. So, it’s technically a lotion, but it’s a thick, rich lotion, so that’s why I’m calling it a “butter cream”. Think of that thick, delicious cake frosting that is just oh-so-divine, and that’s what I’m talking about. It acts a lot like a body butter, but isn’t quite as thick and greasy. I love it.
Homemade Shealoe Butter Cream
38g | 1.34oz raw unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada)
2g | 0.07oz Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)
10g | 0.35oz complete emulsifying wax (not beeswax!)48g | 1.7oz aloe vera juice (not gel!)
2g | 0.07oz vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)Broad spectrum preservative of choice (why?)
Weigh the unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada) and emulsifying wax into a small saucepan and melt together over medium low heat.
While the unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada) melts, combine the aloe vera juice and glycerin in a small glass measuring cup and warm through, stirring so the glycerin dissolves.
Once the unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada) and emulsifying wax have melted, add the aloe mixture and heat through, ensuring everything comes to the same temperature (and that everything is melted at that temperature).
Begin whisking. Do not let it cool too quickly or it may split. Whisk away as it cools until you have a beautiful, thick butter cream (the thickening may take a few days if you are using a different emulsifying wax from emulsimulse/ritamulse). Whisk in your preservative and decant into tins or a 125mL (4oz) mason jar.
Makes 100mL (3.3 fl oz) of butter cream.
This sounds really wonderful! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Darlene! Enjoy 🙂
This sounds wonderful! I’m assuming the aloe juice you use is the kind that normally needs to be refrigerated? If so, does adding the germall plus make it able to sit ont eh shelf – not in the refrigerator? I have been wanting to use some aloe juice I have, but I really don’t like having to refrigerate my creams/lotions/etc as I tend to forget to use them if they aren’t in my bathroom. Thanks!
Yes, my aloe juice does need to be refrigerated, hence the addition of the preservative. I generally wouldn’t add a preservative to a lotion, but because this is so thick you can’t store it in a pump-top bottle, I’m using a preservative. Dipping your fingers into something really shortens its shelf life as you are constantly introducing new bacteria. I’ve made lotions using aloe vera juice as the liquid and successfully stored them at room temperature for upwards of three months in a pump-top bottle 🙂
Thanks! I’m having a similar issue with something I’d like my daughter to use for blemishes – just a simple aloe and lavender mix. But it’s too thick to put in a pump and I don’t want her sticking her fingers into a jar of this because of the bacteria issue you mentioned.
You could also recommend that she use a q-tip to swab out the amount she needs, never double-dipping, but yes, a preservative will definitely help here. Be sure to stay tuned for some more anti-acne projects I have coming out soon, there’s some good ones 🙂
Is this possible to make without a glycerin? what can I substitute for it? Can I use a probiotic tab instead of Germall? I ordered my stuffs from the US and Im from the Philippines. its not easy 🙂 Thanks!
You can leave out the glycerin, though you should be able to find it at a local pharmacy as it is a common remedy for constipation 😛
The probiotic tab is definitely worth a try, though I can’t make any promises as I haven’t tried it myself 🙂
Thanks for reading & have fun!
hi marie,
about the preservative.. never heard of germall. What other preservative is available easily at health store? (in Australia)!
Hi Sarah! I’m afraid I’m not all that familiar with the offerings of Australian health food stores :/ I visited one in Penrith once, and all I remember is that the whole oats they sold still had the husks on them and made terrible porridge, lol. You may be able to find grapefruit seed extract easily, and that’s worth a try. You can also just make this in a smaller amount without a preservative and store it in the fridge between uses (though you will want to let it come up to room temperature before use or it’ll be really hard!).
Hi Sarah,
I use Optiphen plus and it’s available from Heirloom Bodycare and Australian Soap Supplies, to name just two suppliers.
🙂
This butter cream sounds amazing! I have been looking for something just like that. I love my whipped body butters but sometimes can’t be bothered leaving greasy marks wherever I sit, walk eg. Leather seats in car, wooden floorboards 😉
Unfortunately again I don’t have access to reasonably prices aloe Vera juice in Australia, must go on another search! Also have to look up the preservative. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Nadja 🙂 You can also drop the greasy level even more by tilting the oil/water balance more to the water side if you find even this is too thick for an Aussie summer.
Do you have an aloe plant kicking around, or perhaps one you can pillage from a neighbor’s garden? 😉 You can scoop out the goo, purée it, and strain it. Voila, juice! You will definitely need a preservative for that, though, since it’s not going to be as sterile as the purchased juice.
Like to know what is germull. and what else of the preservative you used? want to try this. can we use it on the face if not is there a way to adjust it to be be a skincare usage?
Germall is a pretty strong preservative that doesn’t have all that great of a ranking. Most natural “preservatives” are actually just antioxidants, which help, but are not real preservatives. You can just leave out the preservative, but watch for mould.
Personally I find shea butter to be much too thick and greasy to be applied to the face, but there’s no reason you couldn’t. I prefer argan oil for my face—it’s wonderful!
Germall can be ordered from Majestic Mountain Sage.
Thanks, Melissa!
I wanted to know where to get germull plus and when I googled it. I found reports that it is very toxic and not to be used.
So I am striking this recipe from my list.
I do so enjoy your recipes; but not this one.
I would encourage you not to throw the baby out with the bath water here, Carol Anne. You will notice I simply ask for a broad-spectrum preservative, you are more than welcome to use something you feel comfortable with.
Perhaps I sounded too negative. I should have asked what other broad spectrum preservative I could use.
Thank you.
I have yet to find a true broad spectrum preservative that isn’t at least a little bit dodgy. Grapefruit seed extract is probably your best bet from the natural side of things, though it isn’t really a full spectrum preservative. Optiphen Plus and Geogard ECT are both ok looking, but each have their pitfalls. I’m still researching and experimenting, trying to find something that works in the odd case I need a preservative, but that isn’t terrible. The germall works, but I won’t be replacing it since I’m not convinced it’s worth the potential risk it poses, even in the incredibly small amounts you use of it (I generally aim for 0.1%).
You can, of course, ditch the preservative entirely. If you do I’d recommend making a half batch and storing it in the fridge between uses. Be sure to let it come to room temperature before use, though, as the shea butter gets very hard when cold!
I have heard some mixed reviews on Leucidal liquid, a “natural” broad-spectrum preservative. I bought some but haven’t used it yet. What are your thoughts? It needs to be used at 2-4%… kind of high in my opinion, but if it’s natural?! I’m not really sure. Here’s where I bought it http://www.lotioncrafter.com/leucidal-liquid-sf.html
This one sounds quite good, though I’ve never tried it. Skin Deep gives it a 0, but they also have no data, so I’m not sure how they’re coming to that conclusion. I’ll probably give it a try next since I can get it from Saffire Blue. It sounds safer than germall, if nothing else. I’ll have to do some comparison tests on effectiveness.
is this any good as an alternative?
Phenoxyethanol SA
Skin Deep didn’t have Phenoxyethanol SA, but Phenoxyethanol gets a rating of 4. You can read more here, but it looks like the main concerns are with toxicity.
or…Benzylalcohol-DHA
Skin Deep didn’t have much on this or its components. From what I was able to find it sounds like it will work, but not overly well—apparently it’s a bit weak on mold. I haven’t tried it, though.
I’m curious what you think of Silverion? I found it at Texas Natural Supply and Lotion Crafter in the US. Info from these sites: Silvérion 2400 is a preservative based on a stabilized silver complex produced by an electrochemical process with silver and citric acid. It is a water soluble silver salt of citric acid (containing 2400ppm silver ions). It is not a colloidal silver solution. + Formaldehyde Free + Paraben Free + Non-Halogenated + No Phenols + No Quaternary Ammonium Compounds
This sounds like a fantastic preservative! I haven’t ever heard of it or seen it for purchase, but I do know that silver is a popular additive to synthetic base layers and exercise clothing to ward off stink caused by bacterial action. I will be sure to keep an eye out for this one, it sounds great.
It has worked well for me! It doesn’t stink and I think Leucidal smelled pretty strong, but I also used it with BTMS and both together was a little much for me. If you try it, let us know! I don’t know about Texas Natural Supply, but Lotioncrafter.com ship internationally, and they have a discount code right now because they won’t be shipping while they move – it is MOVE15 for 15% off. No interest financially whatsoever, just thought I’d share. 🙂
Thanks, Natalie! I do find cross-border shipping to be a total nightmare more often than not as the border often swallows packages whole, or delays them for weeks and weeks. That said, I am planning on visiting some relatives in the States in a few months… perhaps I will have oodles of things mailed to them ahead of time lol!
Oh, that does sound like a huge pain! I’m glad you have good places near you!
I can’t wait until e-comm becomes a bigger thing up here, I would love to have access to something like Zappos… though my wallet might not feel the same 😛
i want to let you know how wonderful your blog is! i found it doing research on soap making (for a skyrim mod of all things) and your recipes are so wonderful, i may just have to try out a few, especially the body-butters! my mom and i recently decided to try locally made goat’s milk soaps and i love them and the more i look at the ingredient labels on my soaps and lotions, etc, the more the idea of having control over what goes into them seems appealing. thank you for such wonderful instructions on how to do so! oh, and your pictures are wonderful too! ^_^ very well done!
-KM
Thank you so much, KM! Isn’t it funny how the internet takes us to the strangest places? 😛 Enjoy all your new DIY projects and have fun with them! Feel free to get in touch if you need any help or advice, that’s what I’m here for 🙂
Hello!
This recipe sounds wonderful! I don’t have any aloe juice, but I do have aloe plants where I could get the aloe gel directly. Would that work?
Also, would you be able to convert this into cups and tbsps and whatnot? I don’t have a measurements scale. ^^;;
Hi Jessica!
You can puree the aloe pulp down and use it instead. Just be careful to make the butter cream in small batches as it will spoil much faster when made from fresh pulp.
And no, I cannot change this recipe to tablespoons or cups, it’s not that simple 🙁 Everything has different densities, so there is no easy conversion. Also, think about something like cocoa butter—it comes in big chunks. You can’t really measure that with a spoon… that would be like me asking how many gallons you are instead of how many pounds. You should really get a scale, though! They’re quite cheap (~$15) and a scale will make your DIYing (and baking) SO much easier! More accurate, consistent results, and fewer dishes 😀 You’ll never go back, I promise.
😀 thanks so much for the reply! I’ll have to invest in a scale then! This recipe looks too luscious to pass!
Do it, you won’t regret it! Let me know how it goes when you get to whipping this up 🙂
Hi Marie,
Will 1g of liquid germal work for this recipe
Please refer to my preservative calculator 🙂
Hello Marie!
I made the body butter this last weekend, and overall it turned out quite well…except that when I wanted to use it today after my shower, it had turned out rather hard and grainy.
What did I do wrong???
Thanks!
Love your site!
Jan
Hmmm. How did you store it? And where? The shea butter could explain the graininess—it can go grainy if it takes too long to cool and/or is overheated. There seems to be some disagreement over the cause/remedy, but the Swifty Crafty Monkey wrote a good explanation of it here.
I’m new to using preservatives and wondered if you have an opinion on rosemary antioxidant as a preservative. I have some from a soap recipe I made and would love to use it here. Thank you!
Hi Dru! Rosemary seed extract is an antioxidant, not a broad spectrum preservative. So, while it will help delay the onset of rancidity in oils by preventing oxidization, it won’t do anything to inhibit bacterial growth, which is what I’m worried about here. You’d be better off to save it for lip balms, body butters, and other 100% oil-based concoctions 🙂
Also, do you add the 2g vit E with the shea butter and emulsimulse? Thanks again.
Yes—vitamin E is oil soluble, so it goes in with the oil phase 🙂
Could you use aloe powder concentrate for this?
Definitely—just mix it with enough water to make the same amount of juice 🙂
Does this melt? I know the Shea and oil is very prone to melt as I make whipped body butters. However, I am looking to emulsify my butter in hopes of preventing easy melting during shipment to customers. Please help!
Hi Marie! I must admit this Shealoe butter cream never made it to a time of year where it could have melted—I made it in the middle of the Canadian winter, and it was gone long before the spring thaw. It will eventually melt, though, no doubt about that. Shea butter melts at 37°C, and with all the water added I imagine the final product would melt somewhere south of there.
I made half of the recipe without the vitamin e and preservative and it came out great. It really wasn’t greasy. It was smooth on my skin and I applied some to my damp hair and it made my dry coarse hair, moisturised and soft to the touch. Thanks for your recipe. It save me from cutting my hair off.
Awesome! Thanks so much for reading & DIYing with me 🙂
What type of emulsifier do you typically use? I am looking to make a body butter with the following ingredients:
-Shea butter
-Coconut Oil
-Castor Oil
-Jojoba Oil
-Aloe Vera Gel (the kind that you get from the store with perservatives) (4 ounces)
-Scented Oil (20-40 drops depending on scent)
I was thinking of just using beeswax, however I also have lecithin, what do you think would be best? I plan to try this weekend with both and see which one I like better, however I wanted to know what you think is best as you have amazing recipes! Thank you! 🙂
Hi Michelle! Neither lecithin or beeswax are emulsifiers, so I wouldn’t recommend either of them—they won’t work. They both have “emulsifying properties” in the same way that a peach has “sweetening properties”. Using lecithin instead of an ewax is like using a peach instead of a cup of sugar in a cake recipe 😉
I also wouldn’t recommend using the aloe gel from the store as it’s hard to predict how it will perform in formulas with all the extra ingredients. I’d stick with an ewax like I’ve used here. You might also want to read this and this 🙂
do you think i can use the aloe straight from my aloe plant?
if i peel it and blend it into pieces?
🙂
Thanks!
Hi Annie! If you do this you will find that your butter cream will mould really, really quickly. There’s a lot of extra botanical material in aloe straight from the plant, so I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re planning on using the entire recipe in a day or two.
i see, thanks!
its because I have a lot of fresh aloe that I dont know what to do with. and I dont want to waste it.
Suggestions?
🙂
It would be great in face masks (you could use it as the liquid in any clay mask recipe) and soaps, and it’s also wonderful applied straight 🙂 Here’s how to prepare it for use in masks and soaps.
you are great !!
thank you so much !
cant wait for your book !!
Thank you, Annie 🙂
Hey ! I love your blog ! Wanted to make this soon. Was wondering if it’d be okay to use on a baby ?
Thanks, Aylin! You can use this on a baby, just don’t add any essential oils and be sure to properly preserve it 🙂
Hi Marie,
I know it’s been a while since you posted this recipe, but it’s still relevant! I’ve been trying to find a preservative-free Aloe Vera (I agree with your rationale of being in control of the ingredients!). I looked at the Saffire Blue Aloe Vera Juice from your above photo. When I look at the Technical Data Sheet, it seems to contain parabens amongst a few other additives. Doesn’t this mean it already contains a preservative? Do we have to add more preservatives?
Hey Anne! I just wrote an FAQ that covers the preservative bit 🙂 I’ve been using Saffire Blue’s 200x aloe vera concentrate powder for a preservative free aloe juice; you end up re-hydrating it, but the stuff the sell liquid is also re-hydrated, so in the end it’s cheaper and you aren’t paying to mail yourself a bunch of water! I’d recommend splurging on that stuff 😉
Ah! Great post on preservatives! I see Voyageur Soap and Candle also has organic aloe leaf extract. I’ll pick myself up some next time I head to Cloverdale Thanks for the great info and sunny disposition
Thanks, Anne 🙂 Happy DIYing!
Hi Marie! We made this recipe yesterday. Very nice body cream. As I had to use cetearyl Alcohol (5 parts) + cetearyl glucoside (1 part) – in Germany we don’t have North American emulsifying waxes, the cream emulsified quickly and it is lovely. My daughter added some lavender and it works well. Thanks for the recipe!
Beautifully done! Happy making 😀
Hi Marie,
This recipe sounds like just what I’ve been looking for. Can’t wait to try it.
I was wondering whether you knew anything about George’s Always active aloe vera. It doesn’t have to be refrigerated, and thus has a long shelf life. However I have not tried it in a whipped butter. Would you still recommend using a preservative?
Many thanks in advance 🙂
Hey Elizabeth! Check out this FAQ for more info—short answer is YES!
Hi Marie,
Love your blog and especially your videos.
Can I use mango butter in place of Shea butter in this recipe. Will the same measurements hold?
Will I need to change any measurements in case i want to add some essential oils in to this?
Can I add a little beeswax into this to get its skin benefits? If yes, then how many grams of it will I need to add. The emulsifier I will be using is polawax.
Thank you.
Hey Deepa! You should be able to swap shea for mango 1:1. Essential oils are used in such small amounts that I wouldn’t worry about tweaking anything. For beeswax, the only real “benefit” you’d get here would be a much stickier, skiddier end product, so I really wouldn’t add any. It would wreck the recipe :/
Thank you Marie!
I assumed that since honey is good for the skin beeswax would also be! Silly me!
I make a balm for my kids – one is 2 years old and the other is 9 months old. The only 2 ingredients in this balm are almond oil and beeswax. You are right the beeswax makes it sticky and skiddy. But I don’t know how else I could make a body butter for kids. I hate to use commercially available baby products. The ones that are natural or organic are way too expensive. I have seen your recipes for body butter / lotions. I will be making some of those for myself but for the kids would it be alright to use polawax and germall?! I’m guessing no. Would you have a recipe for a body butter for little kids?
Beeswax is good for the skin, it’s just not very nice in a lotion 🙂 Just like beets are good for you, but maybe not on ice cream 😛
If you want a silkier wax, look at a vegan wax like carnauba or candelilla, or simply use less beeswax.
There’s also no reason not to use e-wax or liquid germall plus on kids, though I would be careful about using essential oils. I find it odd that many people fuss about using things that contain preservatives on their children, and prefer to slather completely unpreserved concoctions on children—who frequently put things and limbs in their mouths! It’s fine if you want to avoid preseravtives with children, but if you want to do that, make sure you are avoiding water, too 🙂 The unpreserved products are a much larger risk than the preservative!
Hi there Marie!
I was able to get this shealoe recipe to work.
I tried to recreate what I did and its almost working except for the fact that I am left with what appears to be oil separation at the end. It also looks somewhat grainy as it cools and I wish. Is this that same as splitting? Could too much oil cause this (my scale jumps by values of .04 so I think I am .03 heavy on the carriers that I am using). My other theory is that at 160 degrees (what my IR thermometer is reading) that shea is going grainy and causing the issue. I would love to hear your thoughts! Thanks Marie 🙂 – Kevin
Hey Kevin! It does sound like your shea is going graininy, but that usually takes several days to happen, and typically doesn’t happen in emulsions (I’ve only ever had it happen in 100% anhydrous products). What emulsifying wax are you using? Also, should I assume you are working in ounces and Fahrenheit? The weight number is inconsequential in metric while the temperature is incredibly high!
I know this is a older post but I hope that you can help me. How many grams of preservative should i use in this recipe? I am using liquid germall plus. Thanks
I’ve got some FAQs on this 🙂
Hi, thanks for this great post. I’m wondering about making my own aloe butter with aloe powdered extract 200x. I’d rather not re-hydrate the aloe and use an emulsifier to make the butter. I’m thinking about adding the powdered extract directly into coconut oil to infuse/extract, then strain it out. Any thoughts on this?!
Aloe extract is typically water soluble, so it’s not going to infuse (not the components you want, at least) into oil. If you want to make your own aloe butter I’d probably just buy an oil soluble aloe extract, oil, or butter, and work with that. Hope that helps!
Hi Marie. This sounds amazing. I have horribly dry skin. Even in the summer my skin is really dry. I’m starting to have marks on my hands from the dryness. Are there any oils or butters you think are better at penetrating deep in the skin that will help me? I’m new to all of this and I’m loving your website!
Hey Cindy! If you have really dry skin what you need is water; in the last year I’ve been incorporating a lot more water into my routine and holy goodness, does my skin ever need it! Oils work to help keep water in your skin (occlusive action), but if you don’t have enough water there to start with, they won’t give you the relief you’re looking for. Some ingredients are more occlusive than others; cocoa butter is a common “natural” occlusive, while petroleum jelly and dimethicone are more conventional occlusives. The occlusiveness of petroleum jelly is absolutely unmatched in the “natural” world (though one can argue petroleum jelly is “natural” as it’s made from stuff that comes out of the earth lol)—when my skin is absolutely hating life and beyond dehydrated I’ll put on lots of water and humectant containing lotions and serums, and then a layer of vaseline, and then go to bed. I cannot believe how much my skin improves overnight, it’s amazing. Cosmetic grade petrolatum is highly refined and perfectly safe, so if you need an amazing occlusive, it is a great choice. I basically think of it as a lid—fill your skin up with all kinds of goodies and lock it in with some vaseline so it stays where you put it and does good!
I hope that helps!
Thanks so much for the info. I appreciate it! I’m going to do that.
Now I’m going to check out some of your lotion recipes!
Thanks a bunch!
No worries, and best of luck with your skin!
Hi Marie, would I be able to use aloe concentrated powder instead of aloe juice and preservative?
I generally recommend making your own juice from the powder and having that on hand for recipes like this; while you can add the powder directly to recipes, each recipe typically requires such a tiny amount of concentrated powder that it can be challenging to weigh it out accurately 🙂
Hey Marie I love the simplicity of this recipe. It leaves room for adaptation like scents and consistency. I was wondering if I used BTMS50 (Since it is Cationic) would you think this wold be good for hair? I have very curly hair and my hair likes butters and can take a heavier product.
It is definitely worth a try! I look forward to hearing how it turns out 🙂
Hey Marie! I wanted to tell you that I really love this recipe. I added some things based upon some of your other recipes and from reading your extensive encyclopedia.
I added Urea, Colloidal oatmeal, panthenol and Cetyl Alcohol. (Love the finish!) I used BTMS-50 for added conditioning. This feels so good on the skin. It does the job of moisturizing and healing what USED to be my daughter’s dry skin! They can put this on after a shower and it sinks right in. I normally make a large batch like 500g. I then separate and scent it for each of their favorite smells.
WAHOO! I love those additions—you’ve got me thinking I should re-visit this formulation and deck it out for the upcoming dry months 😀 Thanks so much for sharing and for DIYing with me!
can I use shealoe as a shaving butter or should I add it to a melt and pour soap base
This product isn’t designed for either use—it’s designed to be a heavy-duty cream 🙂
Thanks for this luscious & lovely recipe, Marie! Just a point of interest… I made this 3 times before I figured out why it wasn’t working. I was making it as an O/W emulsion rather than a W/O emulsion! It won’t come together unless you add the water phase to the oil phase. I don’t understand enough chemistry to figure out why – I even looked up Ritamulse and Lotioncrafter says it’s a good O/W emulsifier. So I was really stumped. Anyway, it’s a beautiful cream to be sure, but next time I will pay close attention to how the phases are combined – there’s a huge difference! Thanks again for the recipe!
Kathleen
Hey Kathleen!
Exactly right! Did you make a large amount?
Happy making!
Barb
Hi Marie!
I’ve done this twice now using Olivem as the emulsifying wax but it doesn’t seem to be melting through completely. Am I doing something wrong?
That’s odd! Do you live at a very high elevation? Could you try putting the oil phase beaker/measuring cup in the oven ~200°F and see if that does the trick?
Hi! I made your lotion, used some shea butter and some pure mango seed butter. It came out somewhat greasy. If I add some liquid, will I be able to use less of it and spread it more easily, and will that reduce the greasy feeling? Or is it something to expect when you use mango seed butter….