This luxurious lemon meringue whipped soap takes inspiration from one of my favourite desserts—lemon meringue pie. With its bright lemony scent, faint yellow hue, and decadent whipped texture, it’s lovely in a wee dish by your sink for hand washing and impressing guests.
Because this whipped soap is stabilized with stearic acid, it has a wonderfully lightweight, airy texture. Glycerin is added to lubricate the mixture enough to whip—I tried to whip this up without adding as much glycerin, and ended up with something that resembled oily cottage cheese curds. It was a distinctly less luxurious looking soap 😉
Those little white beads are the stearic acid.
Once the stearic acid has been melted in and whipped a bit.
I chose buriti oil to give this soap its slight yellow tint, but I know it can be tricky to find. You can use sea buckthorn seed oil or a natural orange or yellow dye instead, or just leave the soap as is and call it the meringue part of the pie instead. Additionally, if you don’t have lemon and orange essential oils, and citrus essential oil you happen to have will contribute a nice, bright citrussy scent and will work in a pinch.
I’ve rounded the whole thing out with a touch of silk peptides for an added luxurious feel, and some white kaolin clay (USA / Canada) to give the soap enough slip to comfortably shave with.
Now we’re talking whippy!
The final soap is soft, airy, and pretty darn fun to use, especially if you’re used to bars and pump-top bottles. I’m in love!
2019 update: I’m afraid I can’t offer much in the way of detailed troubleshooting information for this project as I haven’t made whipped soap in well over 4 years and my memory of the process is limited to my notes, which you’re reading here. Sorry! As you can see, it worked well for me back in 2014, but it has been a long while since I’ve made it.
Lemon Meringue Whipped Soap
100g | 3.5oz cream soap paste
100g | 3.5oz just-boiled water40g | 1.41oz stearic acid (USA / Canada / UK)
6 tbsp vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
½ tsp silk peptides, powder, or amino acids
2 tsp white kaolin clay (USA / Canada)
20 drops buriti oil (or other bright orange carrier oil)
20 drops lemon essential oil
12 drops orange essential oilCombine the cream soap paste and just-boiled water in a smallish (~500mL/2 cup) leftover container with a sealing lid. Mash them together a bit, seal, and leave the paste to absorb the water for at least 9 hours—overnight works like a treat.
Move the soap paste to a glass or metal mixing bowl and add the stearic acid. Set the mixing bowl over a pan of simmering water to melt the stearic acid. Be extra, extra certain all the stearic acid has melted, or you’ll end up with tiny little beads of it in your soap, which is less than ideal.
Once everything has melted, remove the bowl from the heat and start whipping it with your electric beaters to combine everything. It will look lumpy and gross, and that’s ok. Add the vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada), one tablespoon at a time, whipping between additions. Once you get all the glycerin in, it’ll finally start to whip up.
Whip away until you’re happy with the texture, and then whip in the silk, clay, buriti oil, and essential oils. Lightly spoon into a wide-mouthed jar and enjoy!
I got this great little jar from Stepback in Vancouver—follow them on Instagram!
Can you put this into a pump type bottle or will it not dispense? Or do you need a foam bottle? Will a yucca and water solution work to create a cream soap?
I have not found yucca root to be a very useful soap swap as it has almost nothing in common with soap. It’s a pretty weak saponin, and obviously lacks the body and texture soap paste. Yucca + water would basically be a tea that might bubble a bit.
I wouldn’t recommend putting this in a pump-top bottle as it’s really quite thick. At any rate, with the high pH of soap spoilage isn’t really an issue.
Hello. I just made a batch of this. Unfortunately, after whipping, it seems as if all of my stearic acid didn’t melt. Is there any way I can cook and re-whip?
You should be able to 🙂
This starts with a ‘cream soap base’. Where would you find something like that? Can it be made with a basic cream soap recipe? Hmmmm….
Ann Rein, there is a link in the words ‘cream soap paste’, but here’s the link anyway: http://www.humblebeeandme.com/diy-whipped-soap-base/
Sorry, I swear it wasn’t there before (oops – didn’t look close enough!)
It wasn’t, lol, I added the link after reading your comment 😛
🙂
You make it yourself!
Marie,
I really like your blog, I tried some of them. But for the soap, I am not ready for that. Do you sell the cream soap paste?
Thanks.
Chen
I don’t sell anything, Chen.
Hi Marie! This looks so amazing. I really need to try making the soap paste as it seems to be a great base for so many things. I love, love, love home made soap – could never live without it now. Can you tell me where you find your kraft paper labels? I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find anything like that. Do you buy them locally, or online? Cheers, Colleen 🙂
Hi Colleen! The kraft labels are from Amazon 🙂
Can you substitute anything for the buriti?
You can use seabuckthorn oil or a natural orange or yellow dye instead, or just leave the soap as is and call it the meringue part of the pie instead.
Hi Marie,
Looks great! From what I understand, the buriti oil and lemon and orange oils make it the lemon meringue soap, so could I use the other ingredients with various other essential oils to create other “flavors”? I’m really excited to try this but am hoping for a variety of scents to try out, so I’d love to know what is essential for the actual soap and what is for the scents part. Thanks!
Yup, that’s exactly it! Have fun 🙂
Would this work for a shaving cream? If not, do you have any shaving cream recipes or suggestions?
I love your site. You are so creative. 🙂
Thanks!
Absolutely! My all-in-one bars also make for lovely shave soaps (though I do recommend using a shaving brush for maximum lather).
Hi Marie, I am giving this recipe a try. I made the cream soap paste and it seems like it came out just fine. However, when I go to dilute the paste it doesn’t want to dilute in that small amount of water. I let it sit overnight on warm in my slow cooker to help it dilute faster. This morning it had a thick skin of soap layer on top. I stirred it and added extra water and am still waiting for it to dilute all the way. Now I’m worried it’s going to be too thin for the recipe. Not really a question, but if you have any suggestions I am open. 🙂
Ok, so upon further consideration I realized that it was probably supposed to be lumpy? It’s not supposed to be pure liquid. So I am turning the slow cooker up on high without a lid and stirring it every so often to evaporate the extra water I added. I’ll get there eventually. 😀
Yup, you got it! Be careful not to make yourself a boiling-over soap volcano 😉
Hi Abby! When it comes to the whipped soaps you shouldn’t be aiming for anything that could really be called “diluting”—you moreso just want to soften it so it isn’t so stiff. I’d just recommend giving it time and sticking to the recipe in the future 😛
So it worked great! It took me longer because I added too much water. But I love how it came out. I tweaked it a bit and added rose clay and rosehip & jasmine fragrance oil rather than the kaolin clay and essential oils this time and it is also wonderful.
This whipped soap is great to shave with and is very moisturizing. Thank you so much for sharing this recipe.
The stearic acid is very hard to tell when it’s completely melted so I started melting it separately in a glass measuring cup in the microwave on 30 sec bursts. Then adding it to the double boiler with the hot soap mix. That way I know it’s melted. That seems easier for me.
I’m so glad everything came together, and your swaps sound divine 🙂 Enjoy!
Hi! I love this idea – I already made a cream soap paste from a different website but they do not say anything about diluting (adding the glycerin/water/stearic acid – there is already stearic acid in it) it before whipping it but it is the type that is supposed to “rot”/rest for at least a month – does your recipe need to rest or is it useable right away? Thanks so much for sharing, I can’t wait to try it! =)
Hi Ashley! I cannot speak for another paste recipe, or for using another paste recipe as part of this recipe, BUT, as made with my base paste, you can use this straight away 🙂
Just follow Marie’s recipe if you are using the cream soap but no adding extra water or stearic acid as the cream soap you made already has the acid/water in the right proportions. If you add extra steric acid, I’m not too sure what will happen but for sure if you add extra water it’ll thin out.
Hey Marie, love this all natural whipped soap recipe, would it work as a whipped foaming sugar or salt scrub? Does it stay whipped? Thanks so much for all your wonderful inspiration!
Hi Nicole! It does stay whipped beautifully, but I would be concerned about it dissolving the sugar or salt due to the water content 🙂
Another silly question here… I can’t have access to stearic acid here, yet, ordering online is not an option right now for me. Any suggestions please? Can I just power through and ignore it?! 😛
I wouldn’t leave the stearic acid out here any more than you’d leave egg whites out of a meringue—stearic acid is what makes the soap light and fluffy! Check out this as an alternative.
I have a question. I wanted to use this as a shaving soap, but I don’t shave all that often. Would I need to add a preservative if it’s going to take me a couple months to use it all up?
Nope! Soap is basic enough (pH wise) to not need preservatives.
Hi, I have wanted to try your whipped soap recipe for over a year now. Well, today, I decided today was the day. However, I don’t think I’m doing thy lye cal. right. I did it has you said in the post, or at least I think I did, but it doesn’t add up.
My total weight of oils are 19, the basic recipe I use for all my soap recipes. The water for this is 14.44oz and total lye is 5.35oz. When I did in the cal. at 50% lye, the total lye for both came up to 6.42?
this is the recipe I use: olive, coconut, & palm, 10oz each. castor and shea better, 4oz each. Water is 14.44, and lye is 5.35.
Can you please help me with this?
Thank you so muchMary Anne
Hi Mary Anne—Your numbers confuse me. You said the total weight of your oils was 19 (no unit given, I’m assuming ounces?), but the amounts you listed below (10×3 + 4×2) works out to be 38oz, so that would make 19 HALF the total weight, not the total weight. When I calculate this recipe I get 2.67oz NaOH and 4.17oz KOH, to be combined with 18.61oz of water.
Don’t calculate the recipe at 50% lye—calculate the recipe TWICE, each for 50% of the fats, using NaOH for one calculation and KOH for the other. I’m afraid I have no idea where you got your numbers from :/
Love the whipped soaps! My kids adore these for shower time. I was out of whipped base so decided to play a bit. I used 1 bar of my handmade soap that I didn’t love and dissolved it in 2x the amount of diluted liquid soap. I brought it to a simmer, added the stearic acid and some extra shea butter. It worked! Just an idea for anyone looking to salvage an ugly batch of soap :). In my case it was a honey oatmeal soap that overheated and went crazy then crumbled.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for sharing 🙂 What a great way to use up a disappointing batch of soap!
Hi Marie.
I’m an experienced bar-soap maker, but relatively newbee in cream soap. I’m trying your recipe but I’m having a hard time in melting the stearin. Granted, i couldn’t find stearic acid so I resorted to stearin, but I’ve double checked, the melting point isn’t much different, rather, the melting point of stearic acid is even a hair higher than stearin (69.3 °C/156.7 °F for stearic acid vs. 54–72.5 °C/129.2–162.5 °F for stearin according to Wikipedia).
In order to have the stearin melted I resorted to meting it directly in a small pan, obtaining something resembling melted butter, but as soon as I poor it on top of the soap paste it starts solidifying, leaving crumbs and clumps in the paste as I whip it.
Eventually I managed to mix, and soften the whole thing up but I had to squeeze my paste through a cheese cloth, recollect the unmixed/unmelted stearin, re-melt it, and re-pour into the paste, several times.
Absolutely no way to melt the stearin directly in the soap paste. Is there something I’m missing?
Thanks for your fantastic recipe!
Hey Raff! This is rather odd. I have never worked with stearin, but it does seem like it should work. I melted in my stearic acid by putting the entire lot (soap + stearic acid) in a boiling water bath, which took a while but did eventually get the entire mixture hot enough to melt in the stearic acid. My stearic acid comes in wee little balls slightly larger than a grain of sand, which would help it melt more easily (still not that easily, but it did happen). Given the melting point of stearin is well below 100°C it should melt in a water bath, it’ll just take a while. You didn’t clarify if you were actually heating the soap paste—were you?
Thanks for your answer, Marie.
Yes, of course. I’m heating the paste but I cannot go beyond the state of a semitransparent clog of grains the size of a flax seed. The only way I’ve found to melt the stearin is by placing it directly in a small pan on low heat.
How much time is required for your stearic acid to melt in your recipe?
How odd :/ It’s been a while since I made whipped soap, but if I recall correctly it was somewhere around 30 minutes in the water bath.
Uhmmm…Ok, I’ll try to leave the mixture in the water bath longer. Actually I can’t remember how long I’ve left it, but half an hour could well be. Anyway, I’ll try again. Do you place a lid over the paste pot or you do leave it open?
I left it open—it was a heat resistant glass measuring cup in a water bath.
Hello Marie, congratilations for your blog. I read everything you post, and love it.
I’m from Brazil and I can’t find vegetable gliceryn to by here. Is there anything can I use to replace it to do the whipped soap?
Thank you very much.
Beijos
Hey! I’m afraid I really can’t think of anything you could use instead 🙁 In lotions you can use honey instead, but here that would be way too much and it would be very sticky. Have you checked your pharmacy for glycerin(e)? It’s usually sold in pharmacies (the “vegetable” part is not terribly important), though I’m obviously not at all familiar with Brazillian pharmacies!
Thanks for all the great things on your website. You mentioned that this has enough slip to shave with. Do you think a guy could shave his face with it, or would you need to add a little more clay?
Hey David! I wouldn’t recommend this formula for face shaving, regardless of added clay; you’d want an entirely different soap base. Sorry! It’s good for legs, though 😛
Hi Marie, thank you so much for your awesome blog. 🙂 I made this recipe, but didn’t follow it exactly. I kind of mixed this tutorial with your exfoliating cream soap tutorial to come up with an exfoliating cream soap for my face. I love the texture and exfoliation of what I came up with, but I find it to be a little drying. Do you have any suggestions on how I can fix that? Here is the recipe I came up with:
Base (5% SF)
Oils:
16 oz Rice Bran Oil 50%
9.6 oz Coconut Oil 30%
1.6 oz Shea Butter 5%
3.2 oz Mango Butter 10%
1.6 oz Castor Oil 5%
Lye Mixture:
12 oz Water
2.25 oz NaOH
3.16 oz KOH
Cream Facial Scrub (16 oz )
3.5 oz cream soap paste 41.65%
3.5 oz just-boiled water 41.65%
1.4 oz stearic acid (emulsifier) 16.7%
7 T vegetable glycerin <– used a little more than you did
4 tsp kaolin clay
1.05 oz avocado oil <– used much less than you did
At this point, I divided it and tried different exfoliant and scent combos. Could my problem be too much coconut oil in the base? The pH is off? Not enough oils in the final mixture? I appreciate any suggestions you might have. 🙂
Hey Katie! Honestly I really have no idea why you’d find this to be more drying than normal soap. Is clay something that you personally find drying? Or is NaOH or KOH more problematic for you than the other? Can you try some with the same amount of added oil I used and see what you think?
Can i completely scrap the silk peptides? Will doing so change the texture drastically???
Yup—they’re a nice add-in but not required 🙂
I just found your blog a few weeks ago, and I’ve eaten it up. Along with watching every one of your youtube videos. You are such a breath of fresh Canadian air. (I’m in south western Ontario.) I’m a brand new baby to this whole diy body products. It took me 2 years to figure out that it wasn’t each individual product that was bothering me, (first shampoo, then toothpaste, deodorant, moisturizer, and bodywash) it was actually the whole industry. So…. I found You. Now, I need some guidance. In the spirit of baby steps, I ordered the Shampoo Ultra Base, Conditioner ultra base, and the Whipped Bath Butter from New Directions. But I actually have no real idea what to do with them. The comments all raved about them, but I agree with them that the shampoo and conditioner are really thick. Infact, they’re hard to get out of the bottle. Can you advise me on what to do with them? Also. Do you think I could use the whipped bath butter as my cream soap base in the above recipe? Then just jump in at the silk stage. Any ideas you have would be great. Thank you so much.
Welcome, Julie! I lived in Toronto for my undergrad, and I have great memories of SW Ontario—your corn! SWOON!
I must admit I’ve never purchased a base for anything, so I’m not sure I’m a great person to ask. I see each product has a maximum recommended percent of added ingredients, so that’s a place to start. It looks like the shampoo base will really just be receptive to some sort of fragrance or essential oil with a max 0.5% add-in for the shampoo (that would be 99.5g base, 0.5g scent of some variety). The conditioner has a bit more room to play at 6%, so you could start to add some goodies like silk or other hydrolyzed proteins, essential oils, other cationic polymers, or even a touch of a carrier oil. I can’t find anything called “whipped bath butter” on their site, so I can’t offer any advice there, but hopefully once you have the addition rate, that’ll help get you started. Both the shampoo and conditioner are emulsions so you don’t have to worry about solubility, but I’m not sure about the bath butter.
Well, tried making the ‘whipped’ soap today… and only ended up with three batches in the trash.
First time around, I pre-soaked the (just made) paste at 1:1 100g. Put the water/goop mix into the double boiler, softened it down, and then dumped in the stearic acid. That certainly took up all the water and eventually made the entire mix turn into a vaseline-looking slurry.
Kept it on the double boiler until the stearic acid melted down, then took it off and started to run the hand mixer to whip it. It turned into a cream, added the glycerine one tablespoon at a time, whipping in between, until all six tablespoons were gone. Then I turned the mixer on high and whipped. Whipped. Whipped. Every time I thought it might be enough, I grabbed a glop, smeared it on my hands, and tried to wash with it. This stuff never whipped. It only creamed like room-temp butter and cream cheese- nasty! Had to keep a nail brush handy just to dig it out from around and under my nails.
Even after adding the clay/oils, it never whipped. It stayed a heavy creamed texture that was like smearing my hands with damp clay and trying to wash it back off.
Went through three batches, though the others I just dumped the whipped soap base and water into the double boiler since the base was new enough to soften easily.
Tried using 1 teaspoon of glycerine, entirely, and still ended up with a cream mush that I couldn’t even use as a body wash- it didn’t easily wash off, like trying to get globs of butter off, and I don’t want soap scalds from the streaks that didn’t rinse clean. Even tried adding more water while whipping, and still didn’t end up with anything usable.
All in all, with three batches I tried: following directions, using half glycerine, using miniscule glycerine with about half a cup of water. All failed and all ended up in the trash can. All had a texture that was more suited to spreading on a bagel than trying to wash with.
What is going wrong?!
Honestly, I have no idea! I’m so sorry you had so many failures. It’s been a couple years since I’ve made this (there are far too many recipes on my website to constantly be making them all), and I just don’t know. As you can see it worked for me, but what went wrong for you is anybody’s guess. Perhaps the paste was too fresh, but I’ve tried it with fresh paste, and it wasn’t an issue for me. Perhaps you live somewhere much, much warmer than I do? Again, I’m sorry this didn’t work for you and I’m sorry I don’t have any good troubleshooting insight for you.
hi,
how do you calculate the stearic acid and glyecrin amount to be added?
You don’t have to calculate it—it’s all written out in the recipe for you 🙂
I don’t entirely remember how I did as it’s been 4 years, but I assume I tried a variety of different amounts and the ones listed were the best.
I just wanted to say I am sooooo excited to try this!!! Thank you so much for sharing all of your hard work and research!!!❤️
Thanks so much, Jodi! Happy making 😀
Hi!
I made the this recipe and I really like it! I am wondering if it is possible to rebatch as the stearic acid did not completely melt (you did warn about this!). I’m also wondering what you think about using less stearic acid and adding cocoa butter?
Thank you in advance!!!
I’ve definitely re-batched this before, so go for it 🙂 Remember that cocoa butter is nowhere close to as potent of a thickener as stearic acid—that’s sort of like cutting sugar out of a recipe and replacing it with applesauce. Kind of sweet, but not as sweet! Take a look at this recipe. Happy making!
Hi Marie!
Loving all of your recipes. I made the base to this, which seemed to come out fine, but have a question when it comes to actually making the whipped soap. I have the 100g of the base and 100g of water soaking, but they do not seem to be incorporating. Does the base absorb all of the water? If not, when you add the base with the stearic acid, are you scooping the base out of the water? Or dumping the water/base mixture together? I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
Good morning Leslie!
I did a quick read of the post and Marie has posted this as an edit at the end of the post, “2019 update: I’m afraid I can’t offer much in the way of detailed troubleshooting information for this project as I haven’t made whipped soap in well over 4 years and my memory of the process is limited to my notes, which you’re reading here. Sorry! As you can see, it worked well for me back in 2014, but it has been a long while since I’ve made it.” I’m afraid neither of us can provide much of a troubleshoot for you! Looking at your problem though and reading the instructions, did you mash them together?
Can we add panthenol, cetrimonium chloride, keratin or other conditioners to the finished cream soap recipes? If so at what step(s)?
Musing on my question just above (in anticipation of your answer)… once the soap is in use in the shower with water and my wet skin and hair the, I’m betting these added ingredients may wash out, be neutralized, before they have time to work their magic … might this be the correct answer? Alternate answer which I would hope for but am not anticipating is, “Yes, that’s a great idea adding those wonderful ingredients to your soap recipe. Go right ahead.”
Thanks, Marie. Learning alot here with you.
Maria
When it comes to cationic ingredients—soap is anionic, so I would worry about the compatibility of those opposing charges. I also worry about the effects of saponification if adding things pre-saponification, and then yes—soap is a wash-off thing, so would anything be sticking around long enough to work? I don’t know any of these things for sure, but those musings are why I haven’t done those things. I hope that was helpful and happy making!
Hi Marie! As always, I look to your website for guidance and inspiration, and haven’t been disappointed yet! I realize this is an old post, and a project you haven’t revisited in quite some time. However, the question I have is probably more about general procedure, so I’m hoping you have some insights. I have been comparing some different cream soap recipes from other soapers, and noticed that there is one confusing difference. Some add water to the paste; others do not. Many add a preservative, without fail. I know that soap should have a high enough PH that a preservative is unnecessary. So I’m trying to find out why some makers insist that the soap has to be preserved. I was unable to contact the people who created the recipes to which I’m referring; but I trust your formulations and wondered if you could give me your thoughts. The other recipes use pretty much the same ingredients as yours, but perhaps in different percentages. With or without water added, they still added Germaben or another preservative. I’m confused as to why. Cream (whipped soap), with boiled water added before whipping, and perhaps clay or other additives….if the PH remains above 7 or 8, do you feel that preservation is necessary? Am I missing something here that everyone else knows? Maybe I took a potty break at the wrong time and missed something crucial! Would love to know what causes the discrepancies in recipes with regard to adding preservative. Thank you for any insight you can give. Your whipped cream soaps are still my favourites! Have a great weekend of DIY-ing! 🙂
Hi Lisa! This is a very complex topic with a lot of factors at play. In general, I suspect the sellers are probably covering their backsides with the inclusion of a preservative, for which I can’t fault them, especially if they are not paying for professional stability and challenge testing.
From a more academic point, it’s not *just* the pH. A mildly basic pH on its own is not a guarantee for a self-preserving product as many microbes can thrive in a mildly basic environment. Products that contain high concentrations of anionic surfactants (of which soap is) are often self-preserving, and high concentrations of water-activity-lowering ingredients (like glycerin) can also make a product self-preserving. A higher pH + high anionic surfactant concentration + high humectant content could easily combine to make a self-preserving product… but, as always, it depends on the precise formulation. I recommend reading through this two-part blog series to learn more 🙂
Found this post while looking into what clays to add to the whipped soap that I make and sell. For personal use, you can add a preservative or not add a preservative and that’s really up to you. You can store your products in the fridge to last longer, but if you are selling a product and it contains water it should contain a broad spectrum preservative. I use Optiphen Plus, and some other makers use Germall Plus. In addition to that, if a product does not contain water – like an emulsified sugar scrub – I still add Optiphen Plus because the product is likely to come in contact with water when being used. You can put all the warnings on a product you want, but it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Preservatives have safe and effective usage rates, and all makers I know follow those guidelines and don’t have any problems with their products. This allows for products to be shelf stable for a year while non-preserved items that contain water should be kept in the fridge and used within 1-3 months – Lush sells some non preserved items that they keep refrigerated as an example
Again, as long as you aren’t selling your products, you can make your stuff however you feel safe and comfortable!
Hi Marie!
Wow, that is a super helpful answer, and a great blog series….thanks so much for including it! Certainly, the information found there deserves at least 2 or 3 read-throughs to fully appreciate the wisdom within. I find myself agreeing with you with regard to “covering backsides”. As a nurse, I’m used to the need for strict diligence in patient care and impeccable charting practices to make sure every person is treated appropriately, with kindness, and with safety. There always needs to be a fail-safe in place. So it makes sense that the lovely people who provide us with clean and healthful hygiene products also want the same level of quality control and accountability….making their products safe for everyone. And I now have a better understanding of how a specific formulation can determine the need for and level of preservation required.
Thanks for a well thought out and comprehensive reply to my question!
On a more personal note…I know you are a fan of period dramas, as am I. Do you like Downton Abby? Goodness, how I wish there was some sort of, I don’t know….event? for fans to attend. I live in the East (NS) and you live in the West. Have you heard of anything like this being planned in your Province? A Downton Ball; Renaissance Faire, Titanic Costume party….what a treat that would be! It takes a lot to get me out of the house these days….but THAT certainly would! LOL! Have a great day Marie, and thanks again for your intelligent reply. (PS Would you ever consider showing us your costume dresses…maybe even modelling a few? Love the Pride and Prejudice type of empire dress with a spencer jacket! But I can’t choose a favourite era…I’m smitten with them all!) 🙂
Hello Mar! Even if im very late to this, I totally love your recipes and I tried it! Honestly its hard for me to reach the trace. Did I do something wrong? When I put the calculation on soap calculator I made the lye:water 1:3, is it right or should I put it on 38%?? But I made it anyway, I cover it overnight and the dry mashed potato trace came to me in the morning! Another question is, I find it hard to melt the stearic acid T.T, how many time should I put it on simmering water?? Thankyou for this amazing recipes! Hope you’ll reply this! Love from Indonesia
Ah, I actually manage to melt it perfectly, but now the problem is, it seems my soap doesn’t have foam/bubble when I use it, is it a mistake? Or bcs I used 1:3 lye:water presentage? Thankyou very much!