I am thoroughly smitten with these pretty, seaside inspired low tide soap bars. With their dusty turquoise tone, deep green seaweed seam, and sparkling coarse salt topping, they’re just beautiful.
These soaps are scented using both essential oils and seaweed powder. The essential oils I chose are lavender, litsea cubeba, and cajeput. Lavender is soft and soothing, litsea cubeba is bright and citrussy, and cajeput is crisp, fresh, and clean. These three essential oils pair to create a warm, fresh, clear scent that is reminiscent of the seaside.
Seaweed powder contributes not only a dark green colour, but a strong seaweed scent. I’ve used a pretty small amount of it here to prevent it from being overwhelming, and instead add a base note that triggers memories of playing in tide pools on a hot summer day.
The final soap is not only pretty, but smells like summer at the seaside. It’s soft, bright, and fresh, with a hint of undeniably beachy seaweed. I think you’ll love it!
Low Tide Soap
Per 500g (1.1lb) oils:
- 15g lavender essential oil
- 10g litsea cubeba/may chang essential oil
- 5g cajeput essential oil
- 1 tbsp white kaolin clay (USA / Canada)
- Scant 1/64 tsp blue ultramarine (I use these tiny measuring spoons for tiny measurements like this)
- Scant 1/64 tsp black iron oxide
- 1/64 tsp green chromium oxide
- 1 tsp seaweed powder
- Coarse grain sea salt, for garnish
You’ll also need at least one additional bowl or pot to mix up the seaweed soap layer.
Use SoapCalc to calculate your final amounts of oils, lye, and water based on the size of batch you want to make. Unsure about how to use SoapCalc? I made a video to walk you through it! Please ensure you’re familiar with standard soap making procedure before diving in.
Follow my standard soap making instructions. Once you reach a medium trace, add the essential oils and clay. Bring the soap to a rather thick trace—it should be able to support its own weight, like pudding.
Remove approximately one quarter of the soap batter to another bowl. Stir in the seaweed powder and the green chromium oxide.
Stir the ultramarine blue and black iron oxide into the remaining 3/4 of the soap batter—you will want to use an immersion blender here to ensure a smooth colour. You’re aiming for a dusty sea green/blue colour—you may want to add a wee bit of green chromium oxide to this portion, too. See what you think and blend to preference.
Pour half the dusty blue soap into your mould. Spread the seaweed layer over top of the turquoise/green, taking care not to stir the two layers together. Top off with the rest of the dusty blue, gently pouring it down the center of the mould to get the dipped center layer effect I’ve got.
Dust with coarse sea salt, lightly pressing it into the soap to help it adhere.
Cover the mould and lightly insulate it. Let saponify for 24 hours before removing from the mould to slice. I recommend rotating the soap loaf onto its side so the salt layer is on the edge. That way, when you cut the soap your blade won’t drag salt crystals through your soap.