So, while that pumpkin bread pudding is soaking (more on that tomorrow), I thought I’d share with you a military-inspired jacket I made that’s just perfect for autumn. It’s an easy modification of an existing jacket pattern, and took me about a day to sew.

I don’t think they still make the original pattern I used, but there is no shortage of jacket patterns out there. I’d recommend using Simplicity 3628 as it’s actually closer to the jacket I made than the pattern I used.With the collar all sorted out by the kind folks at Simplicity, all that’s left for you to do is to modify the front pieces and the corresponding lining bits and interfacing.

Since we’re going for a scooped overlap, you’ll be extending the top of your front pieces, and then gently curving them down to meet the side-front piece at the bottom.

Make sure you try draping your new pattern piece across your chest to confirm the overlaps won't dip into your armpits!

The other pattern addition you’ll need to make is the shoulder epaulette (or passant), that little flappy/strappy thing sitting on each of my shoulders. That is easy-peasy, just make sure you take some measurements (remembering seam allowance) so the epaulette will fit on your shoulder.

A few shape ideas. The slot indicates where the button goes, though it is purely ornamental.

The most tedious part of this jacket is attaching all the buttons. I got some great, shiny buttons with crests on them from a specialty button shop in Toronto, on Queen and just west of Spadina. Make sure to get yours in two sizes; larger for the front, smaller for the sleeves and the epaulettes.

Decide which side is going to be on top. That’s the side/piece that’s going to have the button holes on the edge, and the dummy row of buttons running across from it (appearing as if they are coming through from the piece underneath). Carefully mark everything, using pins and chalk, so your buttons will match up.

All these wonderful photos were taken by my oh-so-talented friend Hannah! Isn’t she great? Feel free to post any questions you might have, I’d be happy to answer them! And, every entry you comment on is an entry into the monthly draw for some homemade soap!

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