The RMS Titanic had my heart long before James Cameron’s Titanic hit theatres late in 1997. I can remember studying buoyancy in the second grade science class. We were all given lumps of plasticine and instructed to create something that would float. I made the Titanic (or some rough, 7-year-old approximation of it). It sunk like a rock. James’ Titanic just amplified my love… exponentially. From love to hard-core obsession. All through junior and senior high I was “that girl that likes Titanic” to most people.
My dinner dress
In addition to running a gigantic Titanic fansite (which has heaps of photos and lots of costume information), I also re-created many of the costumes. My first few efforts, circa the 8th grade, were pretty mediocre, owing to my sub-standard sewing skills, lack of experience, and desire to finish the costume quickly rather than well.
The original gown
Out of all of Rose’s stunning, be-sequined dresses, the one fans call “The Dinner Dress” quickly became my favourite. I mentally wrestled with it for years, trying to determine how it could possibly fit together in the third dimension. The endless supply of inaccurate tips and reproductions from other fans didn’t do much to help. I did, however, finally figure it out!
My dinner dress
The dress has two parts: a lined underdress made of coral-coloured taffeta, and a heavily embellished and carefully draped overdress, made of a fine, sheer black netting.
The underdress is pretty simple. It’s a princess seam gown with a slightly flared skirt leading out to a square train at the back. The sleeves are cap. The zipper (though not an era-appropriate fastening, it takes nothing from the look of the dress and adds heaps of simplicity) is in the left side-back seam. There is no centre-back seam as the back panel is just one piece.
Diagram of the two pieces that make up the overlay. The two pieces are joined at the red, and hemmed around everywhere else. The blue area at the top is where the overlay is sewn into the neckline of the dress. The angled dashed line shows the folds that create the slats, while the straight vertical lines show where the seams of the underdress fall.
The overlay is where things get tricky and diagram-requiring. It consists of two pieces, one of which has four ‘slats’ on it, which are simply slathered in sequins, rhinestones, and embroidery.The seam attaching the two pieces runs down the right front-side seam, fitted to the body using a bejewelled pin. The second piece is attached to the top of the dress, running around until it reaches the zipper. At that point it isn’t sewn in anymore (so the dress can be put on, of course), but continues along the top of the dress with hooks & eyes. It then drapes down, fastening at the side-waist under the arm with another pin, and draping down into a train.
Now, a few photos to clarify:
Here you can see how a pin gathers the overlay, attatching the folds to the underdress to avoid distorting the fit and shape of the gown. You can also see the seam joining the two overlay pieces running along the right side-front seam above and below the pin.
At the back of the dress, you can see where the overlay attatches, and detatches from the underdress. The dressform is too big for the dress, so the zipper gapes, which makes it easy to see that the overlay is only sewn into the underdress up until the zipper on that side. From there, hooks and eyes are used to ensure the two ends of the overlay overlap before draping downwards.
Here I've undone the draping at the back and held out part of the overlay so you can get a better idea of how it fits together. Once the hooks & eyes are fastened, the two ends of the overlay are gathered and pinned to the dress at the side back waist, as you can see in some of the pictures above.
Well, I hope that helps! I’m happy to answer any questions you might have. And, if you’ve ever made your own Dinner Dress (or any costume from Titanic, for that matter), I’d love to see it!
My school’s homecoming dance theme this year is Titanic, haha! When I found out I remembered all the photos you showed me of your dress. I bet no one will have a costume quite so authentic as yours!
my graduation from grade 8’s theme was titanic as well lol!
All of my Graduations were Titanic themed. I was just the only one who knew it. 😛
my school is doing a dinner theater play in honor or the 100th year celebration of the titanic and we have to make our own costumes, your tips are going to be really helpful. i am playing a woman from first class and need to make a party dress, any ideas where i could get a dress pattern from?
thanks a bunch.
-Jay
Hi Jay! Is the party an afternoon party or an evening party? If it’s an afternoon party, I’d recommend the Simplicity 8399 Swim Dress, or Sensibility’s 1910s Tea Gown or 1914 Afternoon Dress. For an evening dress, Simplicity’s 8399 Jump Dress is pretty good. If you’re looking to make a princess seam gown, I’m afraid you’ll have to start with a basic princess seam evening gown (most pattern makers have one) and embellish from there. If you’re a fairly experienced sewer, http://agelesspatterns.com/1910s-1.htm has some great era patterns, but you have to size them yourself. Hope that helps, and I’d love to see a picture when your dress is done!
Hi Marie! I was wondering if you would consider making and selling a replica of your Titanic dinner dress? I am willing to pay you handsomely for your time and resources. I know you responded no to a previous request, but considering that comment was made almost 10 years ago, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to ask if there’s any way you would consider changing your mind at this present time? Thank you for your contemplation!
Hi Chaste! I’m afraid that’s an even bigger “no” now than it was 10 years ago. The fee I’d ask to make it worth setting aside all the other work I usually fill my time with would be truly absurd for such a gown. I’d recommend seeking out a seamstress who is actively seeking such commissions; perhaps someone who loves bridal work, as the level of embellishment is similar? Good luck!
What are the measurements for the overlay patterns for the dress. I would really appreciate a “pattern for dummies” desciption. Also could you explain in more detail the pattern and method for attaching the items on the overlay. Your modern strapless version of the dress is gorgeous!
Mich; the measurements of the overlay are 100% dependent on the measurements of the under dress. What I did was sew the under dress, leaving the seam where the zipper would go completely open (side back on the left; I eliminated the back seam as it is completely unnecessary if the zipper doesn’t go there). I then lay the under dress out on the floor, and lay the chiffon for the over dress on top of it, pinning it at the top.
In the diagram I made, I marked out where the seams on the under dress will fall when the overlay is placed on top. Those lines/seams should give you a road map for transferring the overlay pattern onto the chiffon using chalk (don’t forget to be a bit generous for seam allowance!). You will have to free-hand it a bit, and don’t worry, it’ll be fine! Just make sure to make it long enough (you can always make it shorter). Don’t worry about the fit of the overlay, that’s what the decorative broaches are for.
As for the embellishments; I drew out all of the swirls/coils using chalk, and then stitched them in using a sewing machine with the dog feet disabled. This was super easy. And then… I glued all the sequins on. Absolutely, totally worth it. I’ve sewn sequins on before, and it is a massive pain in the butt. Just be sure to get a glue specifically designed for attaching sequins and gems to fabric. I used plain old fabric glue on this dress, and I’ve lost a lot of sequins. Later, I found the specialty glue and used it on another dress, and that one is still in great, fully-sequined condition!
I also have a somewhat detailed (or should I say, more detailed in some places) set of instructions on my Titanic fan site, at http://www.make-it-count.org/fun/sewing/mic_dinner.php. Keep in mind that the instructions there are for a version with sleeves, which is why the overlay has a scoop at the top, whereas this one is just straight across.
Hope that helps, and don’t hesitate to ask if you have any more questions!
Oh my goodness! Dear, you are my newest sewing idol. I just recently decided that I’m going to make everything Kate Winslet wore in that fabulous film and this is what I want to start with. Thank you so much for posting such a great description.
I have some questions if you don’t mind. Firstly, about how many yards of overdress chiffon do you think are necessary to purchase in order to be in a safe range for all the draping and such? And secondly, how in the heck are the overdress sleeves connected? As far as I can tell, the overdress is sewn at first as a strapless dress and then the sleeves are added on as caps to that? I’ve been looking at pictures for weeks now and it just isn’t connecting. I’d really love to know.
Thanks in advance and again for being a Titanic fan with talent! (Oh, and I’ve looked at both of your websites which have this info. You are fabulous!)
-Jess
hi my name is sarah i am having a titanic themed wedding next april aboard the titanic well the meseum lol i would love if there is anyway you would be willing to make this in my size and how much it would cost trust me its been crazy trying to find this dress i just love her dinner dress the other ones i found but since im getting married on the staircase i thought this would be perfect thank u
Hi Sarah—Congratulations on your upcoming marriage! I’m sorry, but I don’t make or sell any of my Titanic dresses (or any other dresses, for that matter). This one took me weeks to make, and that was back when I was in High School and didn’t have a job or many other obligations. If you want to get married before 2025, you definitely want somebody else to make your wedding dress! However, it’s really not a hard dress for any moderately accomplished seamstress to make. If you have her/him use sequin glue instead of sewing the sequins on, it probably won’t be too expensive, either (though definitely not as accurate). Good luck!
What pattern would I use to make the over bodice for the dinner dress I have seen patterns that are almost like the dress but are way to expensive, is there any cheap patterns out there?
Hi Laura—I’m thrilled to meet another sewing Titanic fan 🙂 If you scroll back up into the entry you will see I have included a draft of the pattern for the overdress. I drafted my own as there were no patterns when I made it. It’s really not that difficult, basically just sew the underdress, lay your chiffon out on top, pin it down, trace out a few lines in chalk, and cut away! I’d recommend doing a dummy first, though (as always). Have fun!
Thanks I was wondering how the train is attached, I can tell that it is somehow wrapped around the side with a pin. Is it slit open like the front and held with a pin?
There are just two overlay pieces, and the train is part of the larger one. With the way the pieces end up draping, the lower right hand corner of the back panel (see my diagram) ends up draping down as a small, triangular train. If you want a full train, extend that lower right hand corner outwards!
how much fabric would I need for the overskirt?
This depends rather greatly on the width of your fabric (it always does, but moreso here). Because we want to cut this in just two pieces, you’ll want to find a black chiffon that is as wide as the dress is long. From there, 4m should be fine, assuming you’re of relatively average size. To guesstimate, lay out your sewn underdress (it should still be totally open along one seam so you can lay it out flat). Then, measure the entire width of the dress (what will be the circumference in the end), but from the broadest points. Add another 50% on to that for overlap & draping. Hope that helps! This dress is very much a unique piece for every person, so specifics get tricky.
Hi Marie , thanks a lot for those explanations – It is a great help
I am just preparing mine – hope it will as beautiful as yours – I will send it some pictures when it will be finished
Virginie
Happy to help, Virginie! I can’t wait to see yours when it’s done 🙂
Now I have to watch Titanic again, just to check out the dresses!
Stunning work!
Thanks, Paula! This dress is my costuming pride & joy 🙂
Hi, Wow, I love your titanic dresses, I’ve always wanted the dinner dress too and have recently started learning to sew just so I can have it as I go to 2 or 3 formal dinners a year. Now I have to get good enough to try it myself 🙂
Have fun with it! I love this dress 😀
Are you sure the original used sequins? It looks more like beading to me… And wouldn’t beading be more era-accurate anyway?
Regardless, great job! I’m so going to make this one day when I have the space for a dressmakers dummy.
Hi Holly! I am really quite sure. I did loads and loads of research, including tracking down a lot of fantastic exhibit photos that give far better details than the film does. This shot in particular displays the sequiny nature of the embellishments quite clearly 🙂 The original uses smaller, flat sequins, but definitely still sequins—I’ve seen similar ones on vintage dresses from the 40’s and 50’s.
So how could I be able to purchase a dress like that. We are having dinner on the Titanic exhibit in the first class dining room. I would love to purchase the dinner dress for my wife.
I’m afraid I don’t really know—I made it to avoid purchasing one. At one point there was a lady who sold them online our of Germany for about $5000 USD, but that was 10 years ago, so I’m sure you’d be looking at significantly more money than that to have an accurate version custom made these days. Perhaps talk to a local seamstress? Check Etsy?