|What is it?||Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer is a film-former that brings waterproof, smudge-proof, and transfer-proof characteristics to our formulations.
There are four products with this INCI on UL Prospector that are sold by Nouryon. TKB Trading sells Dermacryl® 79. I believe the one sold by Making Cosmetics is also Dermacryl® 79 (the other three are marketed for hair applications rather than skin/cosmetic applications).
|Appearance||Fine white powder|
|Usage rate||0.5–10%, depending on usage. 1–10% is suggested for colour cosmetics, 0.5–3% for creams and lotions.|
|Texture||Can make formulations tacky depending on usage level and overall formulation.|
|Solubility||Alcohol, isopropanol, and fatty alcohols. It is soluble in water with neutralization using a base; the manufacturer recommends triethanolamine (TEA), ammonium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide.|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||We include Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer in formulations for improved wear-time and film-forming awesomeness.|
|Do you need it?||No, but I highly recommend it if you are interested in making water or alcohol-based long-wearing cosmetics.|
|Refined or unrefined?||Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer only exists as a refined product.|
|Strengths||Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer is excellent at making products long-wearing and waterproof.|
|Weaknesses||It’s hard to find—I’ve only found it in the USA.|
|Alternatives & Substitutions||I don’t know of anything that is available to home crafters. If you can access them, ingredients like Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, and Ammonium Acrylates Copolymer look promising—just be sure to research the specific product you’re looking at as the INCI won’t necessarily tell the entire story. The manufacturer should list waterproofing and film-forming properties in the product description. Nouryon’s entire “Dermacryl®” line is different waterproofing film-formers.
Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Polypropylsilsesquioxane (Flake Resin) and Isododecane (and) Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer (TKB Film Fix) are also great film formers, though you will likely need to re-formulate to create a high performing end product.
|How to Work with It||How you’ll want to incorporate Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer depends a lot on what else is in the formulation.
If your formulation contains quite a lot of high-proof alcohol, I find it mixes into that very easily when making small batches. I will pre-disperse the powdered Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer in another liquid that’s in the formulation (preferring something fatty or a humectant) and then add the alcohol and use my Micro Mini Mixer (Badger Paint Mixer) to combine.
If you wish to disperse the Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer in water, the water will need to be neutralized with a high pH ingredient. “The polymer becomes water soluble/dispersible by neutralizing the carboxyl groups with a suitable water soluble base, such as triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol (AMP), ammonium hydroxide, or potassium hydroxide” (Source: Nouryon data sheet for DERMACRYL 79). Making Cosmetics recommends including 0.5% triethanolamine (TEA) to neutralize 2% Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer. If the water is not appropriately/fully neutralized the Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer will not fully disperse/solubilize. Nouryon recommends 80–100% neutralization. “To simplify addition of DERMACRYL 79 polymer into the water phase, pre-slurry together the neutralizing agent, glycol or glycerin, and DERMACRYL 79 polymer” (Source).
You can find a lot more information on how to work with Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer here.
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer should last at least 3 years.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer is the film-former in LipSense lip colours that makes them very long-wearing and transfer-proof.|
|Recommended starter amount||50g (1.76oz)|
|Where to Buy it||You can purchase Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer from TKB Trading and Making Cosmetics, both in the USA.|