What is it? | Alkanet root is used as a dye, typically through infusion. It is usually sold in powdered/ground or chopped form. The colour varies with pH; it is a ruby colour around pH 6, purple around pH 9, and blue around pH 10. |
INCI | Alkanna Tinctona Root |
Appearance | Dark, slightly purple powder or small flakey chunks. |
Usage rate | Infuse in oil until desired colour is reached. |
Scent | Tangy/musty. |
Solubility | The colour infuses well in oil; solid matter is typically strained out before the coloured oil is used. |
Why do we use it in formulations? | As a colourant. In cold processed soap it lends a dusty purple hue. Infused in oils for balms and butters it gives a ruby-plum colour. |
Do you need it? | No |
Strengths | Stable in soap, beautiful botanical colourant. |
Weaknesses | Not particularly potent, so not very useful for coloured cosmetics. |
Alternatives & Substitutions | A coloured mica that is approximately the desired colour is a good alternative, though it will add shimmer. You can also look at pigments like ultramarines, which are available in purples and blues. |
How to Work with It | Infuse alkanet root in oil until the desired colour is reached, strain, and then use the oil. I’d start with a 1:10 to 1:20 (by weight) infusion ratio.
If you’re using the powder you can add it straight to soap batter, where it will add a bit of a dark speckle-y look and some mild exfoliation, depending on the amount used. |
Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, alkanet root should last three years. |
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | Alkanet root shifts colour with pH, from ruby to blue as it gets more basic. |
Recommended starter amount | 30g (1oz) |
Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier—shops focussed on soap supplies are more likely to carry it. |