| What is it? |
Allantoin is a naturally occurring compound that is soothing, anti-irritating, and an FDA recognized skin protectant. |
| INCI |
Allantoin |
| Appearance |
Fine white crystalline powder |
| Usage rate |
0.5–2% |
| Scent |
None |
| pH |
7 |
| Solubility |
Water soluble to just over 0.5% |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
It helps boost healing by increasing skin cell turnover. It is moisturizing, soothing, anti-irritating, and stimulates healthy tissue production. |
| Do you need it? |
No |
| Strengths |
Effective skin protectant and general good-skin-health promoting ingredient at low concentrations. |
| Weaknesses |
It can crystallize into uncomfortable shards. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
You could try a water-based comfrey root extract or infusion, though you’d want to use more than called for amount of allantoin as the comfrey root will not contain nearly as much allantoin. Comfrey root can contain 0.6–4.7% allantoin (source), and with levels that low you won’t be able to achieve the same concentration of allantoin in your finished product. If the allantoin content is on the lower end your product would have to be pure comfrey! I’d probably go with the maximum recommend amount from your supplier, removing the additional amount from the distilled water in the formula. |
| How to Work with It |
Blend it thoroughly it in the cool-down phase (below 50°C)—this is so it doesn’t dissolve at higher temperatures and re-crystallize as the mixture cools, creating uncomfortable shards. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, allantoin should last two years. It is hygroscophic (it will absorb moisture from the air), so you might want to consider double-bagging it if you live somewhere humid. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Apparently it’s pronounced “uh-lan-toyn”. |
| Recommended starter amount |
30g (1oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |
