What is it? | Allantoin is a naturally occurring compound that is soothing, anti-irritating, and an FDA recognized skin protectant. |
INCI | Allantoin |
Appearance | Fine white crystalline powder |
Usage rate | 0.5–2% |
Scent | None |
pH | 7 |
Solubility | Water-soluble to just over 0.5% |
Why do we use it in formulations? | It helps boost healing by increasing skin cell turnover. It is moisturizing, soothing, anti-irritating, and stimulates healthy tissue production. |
Do you need it? | No |
Strengths | Effective skin protectant and general good-skin-health promoting ingredient at low concentrations. |
Weaknesses | It can crystallize into uncomfortable shards. |
Alternatives & Substitutions | You could try a water-based comfrey root extract or infusion, though you’d want to use more than called for amount of allantoin as the comfrey root will not contain nearly as much allantoin. Comfrey root can contain 0.6–4.7% allantoin (source), and with levels that low you won’t be able to achieve the same concentration of allantoin in your finished product. If the allantoin content is on the lower end your product would have to be pure comfrey! I’d probably go with the maximum recommend amount from your supplier, removing the additional amount from the distilled water in the formula. |
How to Work with It | Blend it thoroughly it in the cool-down phase (below 50°C)—this is so it doesn’t dissolve at higher temperatures and re-crystallize as the mixture cools, creating uncomfortable shards.
In order to ensure the allantoin fully dissolves, I like to calculate its usage based on its solubility and the water content in a formulation. For instance, if a formulation contains 60% water, multiply that by 0.5% (the water solubility of allantoin) to get 0.3% allantoin content for the overall formulation. I’ve never had issues with allantoin feeling “shardy” when I calculate the concentration of it this way. |
Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, allantoin should last two years. It is hygroscophic (it will absorb moisture from the air), so you might want to consider double-bagging it if you live somewhere humid. |
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | Apparently it’s pronounced “uh-lan-toyn”. |
Recommended starter amount | 30g (1oz) |
Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |
Some Formulations that Use Allantoin
- Ultra-Light Summer Face Cream
- Brighten & Boost Facial Serum
- Soft Oat Hand Lotion
- Goji & Açaí Superfood Face Cream
- Frosted Cranberry Face Cream
- Soothe and Glow Facial Gel Cream
- Happy Hemp Hand Cream
- Strawberry Kiwi Conditioning Hair Treatment
- Silky Soothing Facial Gel
- Winter Solstice Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer
- Hemp & Shea Hand and Body Lotion
- Nourishing Hand Rescue Lotion
- Hyaluronic Acid B5 Facial Serum
- Soothing Makeup Finishing Spray
- Oat & Shea Hand Lotion
- Soothing Creamy Facial Cleanser
- Prickly Pear Eye Gel Cream
- Brightening Gel Serum
- Intense Hand Rescue Cream
- Argan Rose In-Shower Body Conditioner