Bentonite Clay

What is it?

A heavy, fine grey clay (Calcium Bentonite).

Appearance

A fine grey powder with light and dark flecks.

Texture

Smooth and dusty.

Scent

Dusty and rather unremarkable.

pH

~9

Solubility

Insoluble

Why do we use it in formulations?

It’s a very absorbent clay, making it popular in clarifying-type formulations.

Do you need it? In the world of clays we use for formulating, bentonite is really unique. Compared to kaolin clay and the French clays, it has a much higher pH, is much heavier, and creates more of a gel when mixed with water (vs a creamy paste).

Some people love bentonite, and some people don’t. Personally, I prefer kaolin and French green clay and could live without bentonite.

Strengths

It’s a very absorbent clay that creates a sort of gel when mixed with water, which is unique in the world of cosmetic clays.

Weaknesses

It has a high pH, and its strong absorbency means it can be too strong for drier skin/hair types.

Alternatives & Substitutions

Because bentonite clay is very unique, it’s not a good substitute for other clays, and other clays are not a good substitute for it.

If a formulation calls for bentonite, don’t replace it with another clay unless you are ok with re-developing the formulation.

If a formulation calls for a clay that isn’t bentonite, do not use bentonite instead unless you are ok with re-developing the formulation.

How to Work with It

Bentonite clay can be hot or cold processed. If the formulation includes other powders, stir them all together thoroughly before incorporating liquid.

It’s a good idea to include something acidic in formulations that use bentonite clay to help counter its high pH.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, bentonite clay should last indefinitely.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Check out this experiment to learn about how absorbent and unique it is!

You’ll commonly read that bentonite clay should never, ever come into contact with metal because it carries a charge. This is not true.

Recommended starter amount

100g (3.3oz)

Where to Buy it

 Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Bentonite Clay

Originally published on August 28, 2016