C10-18 Triglycerides (Butter Pearls)

What is it? C10-18 Triglycerides are a fatty thickener, used to boost viscosity, stability, and richness in our formulations.

Simply Ingredients sells C10-18 Triglycerides as “Butter Pearls”, which is a very fitting name! Their product appears to be Premier OliPearls by Premier Specialties, Inc.

Other manufacturers also make a product with this INCI: LIPOCIRE™ A SG by Gattefossé, MM Wax® 10-18 by MMP International, and DUB CIRE H1 by Stearinerie Dubois.

INCI C10-18 Triglycerides
Appearance White pellets
Usage rate 0.5–30% (You can go higher, especially if you live somewhere quite hot)
Texture When added to formulations, C10-18 Triglycerides contributes a rich, silky skin feel.
Scent Slightly fatty—nothing noticeable in finished formulations.
Absorbency Speed C10-18 Triglycerides tends to slow the absorbency speed of formulations it is added to as it makes formulations feel richer.
Approximate Melting Point 45–55°C
Solubility C10-18 Triglycerides are oil soluble
Why do we use it in formulations? C10-18 Triglycerides is included in formulations to make them feel richer, to boost viscosity, to harden/solidify, and to improve stability.

C10-18 Triglycerides is a good way to make a product solid and rich while maintaining good slip.

Do you need it? No, but I sure like C10-18 Triglycerides!
Refined or unrefined? C10-18 Triglycerides only exists as a refined ingredient
Strengths Rich, creamy thickening with beautiful skin feel. Very versatile.
Weaknesses Harder to find than other fatty thickeners, like cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid.
Alternatives & Substitutions I’d try a blend of cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid; probably 70% cetearyl alcohol and 30% stearic acid? You’ll have to test it yourself and see what works for the particular formulation you’re using.

A pseudo wax, made from hydrogenated oils, could potentially work.

I do not recommend using a true wax, like beeswax or candelilla wax, instead of C10-18 Triglycerides.

How to Work with It Include C10-18 Triglycerides in the heated oil phase of your formulations. It needs to be melted.

Try swapping a different fatty thickener (cetyl, stearic, cetearyl) in a lotion/cream formula you already love with  C10-18 Triglycerides (Butter Pearls) and see what you think 🙂

Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, C10-18 Triglycerides should last at least two years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks It is possible for this ingredient to be made from animal sources, but I haven’t found versions made from non-vegetable sources. The product Simply Ingredients sells is made from olives.
Recommended starter amount 100g (3.5oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from Simply Ingredients. The Formulary sells it in the UK.

Some Formulations that Use C10-18 Triglycerides


Posted on

June 6, 2022