|What is it?||Hyaluronic Acid is an incredible humectant and moisturizer that we include in our products for incredible hydration and skin plumping. You can learn a lot more about it here! The Hyaluronic Acid we use in our products is made by fermentation and is vegan.
Hyaluronic acid is available in a wide variety of weights, far beyond just “high” and “low”. Lotion Crafter sells five different weights, ranging from ultra-low molecular weight (ULMW), which is less than 6k daltons, all the way up to high molecular weight, which is 1–1.5 million daltons. I use what is generally sold as low to medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid, right around 1 million daltons. The distinctions between “ultra-low”, “extra-low”, “super-low”, “low”, “high”, etc. are not terribly well defined, so I recommend going by daltons rather than the title wherever possible. When it comes to irritation potential, according to Simple Skincare Science, “the hyaluronic you want to use should be between 80,000 to 1,000,000 daltons (80 – 1,000 kDa). This seems to be the sweet spot according to studies. Anything higher won’t do much good. Anything lower might cause inflammation.” (That is what I use in my formulations).
|Appearance||Fine white powder|
|Usage rate||0.01–2%. I typically use the 1% solution at 20%; which works out to hyaluronic acid being present at 0.2% in the overall formulation.|
|Texture||Once made into a solution with water it is very slippy, leaving the skin soft and hydrated with no sticky after-feel.|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||Hyaluronic Acid is a fantastic humectant and moisturizer; I typically include a 1% solution at 20% in recipes for a 0.2% concentration to seriously boost the hydration power of a recipe. At this usage rate, I don’t find the hyaluronic acid thickens products at all; if you’re making a watery thing with hyaluronic acid and you want it to be viscous I’d recommend a gelling ingredient like hydroxyethylcellulose or Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax ZEN) to thicken your formulation; they’re very effective and a fraction of the cost of hyaluronic acid! Thickening a formulation with hyaluronic acid can get very expensive very quickly.|
|Do you need it?||It’s definitely a luxury ingredient, but if you have very dry skin I would recommend it.|
|Strengths||It is an unbeatable humectant and moisturizer.|
|Weaknesses||It is pretty expensive—typically at least $5/g.|
|Alternatives & Substitutions||There really isn’t anything that performs like Hyaluronic Acid. “VEGELURON” is supposed to be a viable alternative, but I haven’t worked with it yet. If you don’t have Hyaluronic Acid for a recipe I’d probably swap it out for more water or aloe vera juice, and see if you can also include extra non-sticky humectant, like propanediol 1,3.|
|How to Work with It||Dissolve 1% in water with a sufficient preservative to create a solution (click here for instructions), and include that in the heated water phase of your recipes or cold-process it. Hyaluronic acid is effective at low amounts, so you shouldn’t need a lot.
Hyaluronic acid is about as heat sensitive as many of the carrier oils we work with, so it’s perfectly fine to heat it for 20–30 minutes for inclusion in an emulsion. It takes multiple hours of exposure to heat (at the levels we use for formulating, at least) for hyaluronic acid to start to degrade.
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hyaluronic Acid powder should last two years.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||Different weights of Hyaluronic Acid will create different viscosities when made into a solution. Low molecular weight (LMW) makes a fairly thick gel. Higher weights will make thicker gels, the lower weight versions will make thinner solutions.
Resist the temptation to make a high concentration solution (above 1%) right off the bat! You risk the Hyaluronic Acid not hydrating into the water and remaining as wasteful clumps.
Hyaluronic Acid is not an acid like citric acid or lactic acid and will not dramatically reduce the pH of your formulations.
|Recommended starter amount||10g (0.35oz) if the price is decent. This will make 1L of 1% stock. You can definitely buy less, every 1g = 100mL of 1% stock.|
|Where to Buy it||Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. Mine is from Pure Nature (NZ). In the USA, Lotion Crafter has it. For Canadians, Windy Point Soap Making Supplies in Calgary sells it. If you’re not in Calgary you’ll have to email Windy Point to place a special order, though, as it’s not on their web store.|
Some Formulations that Use Hyaluronic Acid
- Frosted Cranberry Face Cream
- De-Puffing Peppermint Aloe Facial Roller
- Summer Solstice Body Milk
- Bi-Phase Hyaluronic Acid Hair Serum
- Soothe and Glow Facial Gel Cream
- Ten Projects to Make with Hyaluronic Acid
- Strawberry Kiwi Body Yogurt
- Silky Soothing Facial Gel
- Sun Bum Body Cream
- Winter Solstice Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer
- Ice Palace Ceramide Glow Gel Cream
- Hyaluronic Acid B5 Facial Serum
- Prickly Pear Eye Gel Cream
- Brightening Gel Serum
- Lavender Aloe Hydrating Facial Toner
- Winter Solstice Facial Gel Cream
- Cranberry Orange Facial Gel Cream
- Strawberry Rose Body Glow Serum
- Sweetgrass Gel Moisturizer
- Sweetgrass Facial Serum