Hyaluronic Acid

What is it? Hyaluronic Acid is an incredible humectant and moisturizer that we include in our products for incredible hydration and skin plumping. You can learn a lot more about it here! The Hyaluronic Acid we use in our products is made by fermentation and is vegan.
INCI Hyaluronic Acid
Appearance Fine white powder
Usage rate 0.01–2%. I typically use the 1% solution at 20%; aka 0.2% of the overall formulation.
Texture Once made into a solution with water it is very slippy, leaving the skin soft and hydrated with no sticky after-feel.
Scent Nothing noticeable
Absorbency Speed Fast
pH 6–7.5
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Hyaluronic Acid is a fantastic humectant and moisturizer; I typically include a 1% solution at 20% in recipes for a 0.2% concentration to seriously boost the hydration power of a recipe.

Learn way more about Hyaluronic Acid here!

Do you need it? It’s definitely a luxury ingredient, but if you have very dry skin I would recommend it.
Strengths It is an unbeatable humectant and moisturizer.
Weaknesses It is pretty expensive—typically at least $5/g.
Alternatives & Substitutions There really isn’t anything that performs like Hyaluronic Acid. “VEGELURON” is supposed to be a viable alternative, but I haven’t worked with it yet. If you don’t have Hyaluronic Acid for a recipe I’d probably swap it out for more water or aloe vera juice, and see if you can also include extra non-sticky humectant, like propanediol 1,3.
How to Work with It Dissolve 1% in water with a sufficient preservative to create a solution (click here for instructions), and include that in the heated water phase of your recipes or cold-process it. Hyaluronic acid is effective at low amounts, so you shouldn’t need a lot.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hyaluronic Acid powder should last two years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Different weights of Hyaluronic Acid will create different viscosities when made into a solution. Low molecular weight (LMW) makes a fairly thick gel. Higher weights will make thicker gels, lower weight will make thinner solutions.

Resist the temptation to make a high concentration solution (above 1%) right off the bat! You risk the Hyaluronic Acid not hydrating into the water and remaining as wasteful clumps.

Recommended starter amount 10g (0.35oz) if the price is decent. This will make 1L of 1% stock. You can definitely buy less, every 1g = 100mL of 1% stock.
Where to Buy it Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. Mine is from Pure Nature (NZ). In the USA, Lotion Crafter has it. For Canadians, Windy Point Soap Making Supplies in Calgary sells it. If you’re not in Calgary you’ll have to email Windy Point to place a special order, though, as it’s not on their web store.

Some Formulations that Use Hyaluronic Acid


Posted on

November 27, 2018

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