What is it? |
A water soluble thickening agent that creates beautiful crystal clear gels without the tacky skin feel of other gums. |
INCI |
Hydroxyethylcellulose |
Appearance |
Fine off-white powder |
Usage rate |
0.1–3% (you could use more, but it would be very thick!) |
Texture |
A soft powder |
Scent |
Nothing noticeable |
pH |
6.7 (1% solution) |
Charge |
Non-ionic |
Solubility |
Water |
Why do we use it in formulations? |
It provides fantastic gel-like thickening without the snottiness of gums like xanthan and guar. It also boosts surfactant performance noticeably. |
Do you need it? |
It’s easily my favourite plant-derived thickening gum; I’d recommend it over xanthan and guar. |
Strengths |
Creates beautiful, clear, carbomer-like gels and noticeably boosts surfactant performance. Has a much better leave-on skin feel than gums like xanthan and guar. |
Weaknesses |
Harder to find than gums like xanthan and guar. |
Alternatives & Substitutions |
I haven’t come across anything that works quite like HEC does. Xanthan gum will offer similar thickening, but gives a far less pleasant end consistency and does not boost lather the way HEC does. |
How to Work with It |
Whisk the hydroxyethylcellulose into some glycerin to break up any lumps before adding the rest of the water phase. It will thicken over the course of several hours without heating; the thickening process can be sped up by gently heating the mixture in a water bath. |
Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, hydroxyethylcellulose should last at least three years. |
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Make sure it has time to fully hydrate before continuing with your formulation to ensure a uniform end product. |
Recommended starter amount |
30g (1oz) |
Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. Mine is from Essential Wholesale. |