|What is it||Montanov™ 202 is an all-natural, palm free, liquid crystal oil-in-water emulsifier made by SEPPIC. It’s very versatile, and can be used to create everything from very thin, fluid emulsions to thick, rich emulsions. Montanov™ 202 does not thicken formulations the way emulsifying waxes like Olivem 1000, Ritamulse SCG (Emulsimulse, ECOMulse), and Emulsifying Wax NF do; it works more like Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate. Because Montanov™ 202 doesn’t thicken—it just emulsifies—it gives us the flexibility to thicken our emulsions the way we want to. I highly recommend reading up on Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate to learn more about the formulation possibilities this creates!|
|INCI||Arachidyl Alcohol (and) Behenyl Alcohol (and) Arachidyl Glucoside|
|Appearance||Small off-white pellets|
|Usage rate||3–5%, works around 10% of the oil phase|
|Absorbency Speed||Creates ultra-light emulsions|
|Approximate Melting Point||
|Solubility||Oil soluble, dispersible in hot water.|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||Montanov™ 202 is an oil-in-water emulsifier; we use it to bring oil and water together to create everything from body milks to lotions to creams. It has a very light skin feel and can be described as being “invisible” in emulsions.
As Montanov™ 202 is palm free, it’s a great choice of emulsifier if you’re looking to avoid palm-derived ingredients in your formulations.
Montanov™ 202 also helps boost the moisturizing properties of our emulsions, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
|Do you need it?||No, but I would highly recommend it if you are interested in natural formulation.|
|Refined or unrefined?||Montanov™ 202 only exists as a refined product.|
|Strengths||Montanov™ 202 is very versatile, allowing you to independently adjust the viscosity and oil phase size of your formulations. It creates stable emulsions at low usage rates and works over a wide variety of oil phase sizes. It’s lightweight, reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and generally creates lovely-feeling emulsions.|
|Weaknesses||It’s one the more expensive emulsifiers I use.|
|Alternatives & Substitutions||You’ll need another complete emulsifying wax. Ideally you want something that doesn’t contribute viscosity; Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate is a good alternative, though it isn’t natural.
A thickening emulsifying wax like Emulsifying Wax NF or Olivem 1000 can work in some situations, though you will need roughly twice as much. Because these emulsifying waxes contribute fatty thickening to finished products, formulations designed to work with Montanov™ 202 will be significantly more viscous if you use a thickening emulsifying wax in its place. Depending on the formulation you may be able to adequately compensate by removing any additional fatty thickeners, but this will take some experimenting to get right.
|How to Work with It||Include Montanov™ 202 in your heated oil phase; it’s solid, so it needs to be melted before it’ll do anything.
Combine the heated oil and water phases with high-shear mixing while the phases are still hot. Switch to hand stirring and cool slowly; do not accelerate cooling with an ice bath or use high-shear mixing once the emulsion has cooled.
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Montanov™ 202 should last 5 years from the date of manufacture.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||Learn more about Montanov™ 202 with this blog post from Formula Botanica.
“Glucolipide (trade name Montanov™ 202, SEPPIC, Puteaux, France) is an emulsifier of vegetal origin, synthesized from rapeseed fatty alcohols and wheat glucose. Arachidyl glucoside is produced during the manufacturing process … Despite its ominous name, it is not derived from peanuts (Arachis hypogaea).” (Source; pages 10–11)
|Recommended starter amount||100g (3.5oz)|
|Where to Buy it||Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. In Canada you can get it from Mini Chemist and Les Ames Fleurs. In the USA, you can get it from Formulator Sample Shop (save 20% with code HUMBLEBEE). In Germany, Alexmo Cosmetics has it. You can also get it in New Zealand and Australia.|