Neossance® Hemisqualane

What is it? Neossance® Hemisqualane is a beautiful non-volatile, lightweight emollient made from plant sugar.
INCI C13-15 Alkane
Appearance Clear liquid
Usage rate Up to 55%
Texture Lightweight, smooth, oil-like
Scent None
Absorbency Speed Fast
Solubility Oil
Why do we use it in formulations? Neossance® Hemisqualane is oil-like, but ultra light. I love it in many things, but I find it especially shines in cosmetics and haircare, where we want oil-like emollience, but without the weight and greasiness that oil can bring to formulations.

Neossance® Hemisqualane can be a good cyclomethicone alternative in situations where the success of the formulation does not depend on cyclomethicone’s volatility (ability to evaporate quickly). This means Neossance® Hemisqualane typically will not work as a cyclomethicone alternative in waterproof cosmetics or in ultra-light hair oils.

Do you need it? No, but it is great. I would highly recommend it if you have type 1 or 2 hair and/or if you enjoy making cosmetics.
Refined or unrefined? Neossance® Hemisqualane only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Excellent lightweight naturally derived emollient.
Weaknesses Can be harder to source.
Alternatives & Substitutions Other lightweight emollients like Coco-Caprylate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate are good options. . After that, I’d try squalane or fractionated coconut oil. You could also try blending fractionated coconut oil with some cyclomethicone to get the lighter feel of Neossance® Hemisqualane, though keep in mind that cyclomethicone is volatile, so you don’t want to heat it. I recommend checking out the table on page two of this document for ideas!
How to Work with It Include in the oil phase of your formulations; Neossance® Hemisqualane can be hot or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Neossance® Hemisqualane should last at least two to three years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Neossance® Hemisqualane is sometimes sold as a stand-alone facial serum at a substantial markup—if you like it, purchase it from a DIY supplier and enjoy some substantial savings!
Recommended starter amount 100mL (3.3fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Neossance® Hemisqualane


Posted on

March 14, 2019