|What is it?
|Neossance® Hemisqualane is a beautiful non-volatile, lightweight emollient made from plant sugar.
|Up to 55%
|Lightweight, smooth, oil-like
|Why do we use it in formulations?
|Neossance® Hemisqualane is oil-like, but ultra light. I love it in many things, but I find it especially shines in cosmetics and haircare, where we want oil-like emollience, but without the weight and greasiness that oil can bring to formulations.
Neossance® Hemisqualane can be a good cyclomethicone alternative in situations where the success of the formulation does not depend on cyclomethicone’s volatility (ability to evaporate quickly). This means Neossance® Hemisqualane typically will not work as a cyclomethicone alternative in waterproof cosmetics or in ultra-light hair oils.
|Do you need it?
|No, but it is great. I would highly recommend it if you have type 1 or 2 hair and/or if you enjoy making cosmetics.
|Refined or unrefined?
|Neossance® Hemisqualane only exists as a refined product.
|Excellent lightweight naturally derived emollient.
|Can be harder to source.
|Alternatives & Substitutions
|Other lightweight emollients like Coco-Caprylate and C12-15 alkyl benzoate are good options. . After that, I’d try squalane or fractionated coconut oil. You could also try blending fractionated coconut oil with some cyclomethicone to get the lighter feel of Neossance® Hemisqualane, though keep in mind that cyclomethicone is volatile, so you don’t want to heat it. I recommend checking out the table on page two of this document for ideas!
|How to Work with It
|Include in the oil phase of your formulations; Neossance® Hemisqualane can be hot or cold processed.
|Storage & Shelf Life
|Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Neossance® Hemisqualane should last at least two to three years.
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks
|Neossance® Hemisqualane is sometimes sold as a stand-alone facial serum at a substantial markup—if you like it, purchase it from a DIY supplier and enjoy some substantial savings!
|Recommended starter amount
|100mL (3.3fl oz)
|Where to Buy it
|Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.
Some Formulations that Use Neossance® Hemisqualane
- Bi-Phase Hyaluronic Acid Hair Serum
- Rose & Tea Ultra-Light Conditioning Hair Balm
- Winter Solstice Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer
- Ice Palace Ceramide Glow Gel Cream
- Açaí & Jojoba Facial Oil Serum
- Nourishing Hand Rescue Lotion
- Argan Rose Conditioning Hair Balm
- Silky Cream Foundation
- Snowflake Moon Drops
- Silky Camellia Hair Serum