|What is it?||Olivem© 1000 is a complete, self-thickening, natural, plant-derived emulsifying wax for creating oil-in-water emulsions. It is made by Hallstar and is COSMOS certified.|
|INCI||Cetearyl Olivate (and) Sorbitan Olivate|
|Appearance||Thin, flat white flakes.|
|Approximate Melting Point||70°C (158°F)|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||In lotions and creams it functions as an all-in-one emulsifier as well as contributing thickening. I find emulsions made with Olivem 1000 tend to be thicker than emulsions made with Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.
In cleansing oils and balms it creates products that self-emulsify on contact with water. It also brings the “cleansing” element as Olivem 1000 is made up of molecules that have an oil-loving and a water-loving end; the oil-loving end grabs the oil on your skin, and the water-loving end grabs the water you are washing with to rinse away easily.
|Do you need it?||No, but if you want a “natural” emulsifying wax Olivem 1000 is likely the one I’d choose.|
|Strengths||It is a fairly easy-to-use complete “natural” emulsifying wax. It has a broader pH range and oil phase tolerance than Ritamulse SCG.|
|Weaknesses||It can be harder to find (and more expensive) than more standard emulsifying waxes like Emulsifying Wax NF. It can also be harder to use successfully (though I still find it quite easy to use!).
Olivem 1000 is notorious for “soaping”—turning white on application.
|Alternatives & Substitutions||Ritamulse SCG is a good alternative for Olivem 1000 as it is also ECO-Cert compliant and creates emulsions with a similarly thick, fluffy feel. However, Ritamulse SCG does have more incompatibilities than Olivem 1000, so be sure to it is compatible with your formula.
MONTANOV™ 68 MB (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetearyl Glucoside) will work, though I find it soaps even more enthusiastically than Olivem 1000 does.
PolyAquol™ 2W (INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Stearyl Alcohol) will also work as a natural alternative; it’s lovely!
For a non-natural alternative, you could use Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.
You cannot use a solubilizer, like Polysorbate 80, in place of Olivem 1000.
You cannot use a true wax, like beeswax, in place of Olivem 1000.
You cannot use other members of the Olivem family, like Olivem 300 or Olivem 900, in place of Olivem 1000.
|How to Work with It||Melt it into your heated oil phase; it needs to be heated to incorporate. It works to emulsify at 20–25% of the oil phase.
It is typically recommended to include stabilizers in your formula, like 0.2% xanthan gum, or 1–2% of a thickener/stabilizer like olive wax or Glyceryl Stearate. I don’t always do this and haven’t had any issues.
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Olivem 1000 should last five years.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||The manufacturer recommends high-shear blending until the emulsion is formed, and then slower mixing throughout cooling.|
|Recommended starter amount||50–100g (2–3oz)|
|Where to Buy it||Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.|