| What is it? | Polyglyceryl-4 oleate is a natural water-in-oil (low HLB) emulsifier made from sunflower seed oil and vegetable glycerin. |
| INCI | Polyglyceryl-4 oleate |
| Appearance | Cloudy viscous liquid. |
| Usage rate | 5–15% |
| Scent | Mild |
| Solubility | Oil-soluble, dispersible in water. |
| Why do we use it in formulations? | Polyglyceryl-4 oleate is an emulsifier; it brings oil and water together. It can be used to emulsify water-in-oil creams and lotions (here’s a sample formulation from Making Cosmetics) and can be included in anhydrous formulations to create products that will self-emulsify when mixed with water. |
| Do you need it? | No, but it is a very useful ingredient to have if you prefer to formulate with natural ingredients and/or if you’re interested in making water-in-oil emulsions. |
| Refined or unrefined? | Polyglyceryl-4 oleate only exists as a refined product. |
| Strengths | Polyglyceryl-4 oleate is a versatile natural ingredient and a good option for making natural and mild balm-to-milk products. |
| Weaknesses | I find that oil-based cleansing formulations with Polyglyceryl-4 oleate don’t rinse off as cleanly/thoroughly as ones made with ingredients like Polysorbate 80, Cromollient SCE, and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. This is because Polyglyceryl-4 oleate creates water-in-oil emulsions, which resist rinse-off with water (you can find more discussion on this here). This means anhydrous cleansing formulations using Polyglyceryl-4 oleate are typically very mild, so it’s not necessarily a weakness, just a thing to be aware of. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions | If you’re making a cleansing oil or cleansing balm, Polysorbate 80, Cromollient SCE, and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil will all work. As they create oil-in-water emulsions I find they provide stronger rinse-off than Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, so you’ll want to use less. I would start with 1/3 the amount and adjust from there. You could also try Polyglyceryl-3 oleate, though it has a lower usage rate (1–4%). This document from Formulator Sample Shop includes a sample formulation for an oil-to-milk cleanser that uses Polyglyceryl-3 oleate at 2.5%.
If you’re using Polyglyceryl-4 oleate to emulsify a cream or lotion, you’ll need a different water-in-oil (W/O) emulsifier at a bare minimum; W/O emulsions have a very different feel than O/W emulsions. Polyglyceryl-4 oleate is still a new ingredient to me so I don’t have a ton of suggestions; it looks like Polyglyceryl-3 oleate may work though some re-formulating would likely be required. Skin Chakra’s “Neocare P3R” also looks promising. |
| How to Work with It | Include Polyglyceryl-4 oleate in your oil phase; it can be hot or cold processed. |
| Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate should last 18 months. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | Water-in-oil emulsifiers are relatively rare in the world of ingredients available to handcrafters, and this is one we can get that’s somewhat widely available! |
| Recommended starter amount | 250mL (8fl oz) or less |
| Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. I’ve found it at Skin Chakra (EU), Les Âmes Fleurs (Canada), Soapmakers Store (UK), and Making Cosmetics (USA). |
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