| What is it? | Polysorbate 80 is a solubilizer; we use it to disperse oils into otherwise watery concoctions. Compared to Polysorbate 20 it is better suited to solubilizing true oils. It is sometimes referred to as “Tween 80”. |
| INCI | Polysorbate 80 |
| Appearance | Pale yellow liquid |
| Usage rate | 1–20% |
| Texture | Smooth semi-viscous liquid |
| Scent | Nothing strong; a bit “chemically” |
| pH | 6–8 (5% aqueous solution) |
| Charge | Non-ionic |
| Solubility | Water & oil |
| Why do we use it in recipes? | In watery concoctions like room sprays, body sprays, and hand washes polysorbate 80 is used to disperse oils evenly so they don’t separate out.
In oil-based products like cleansing oils and cleansing balms polysorbate 80 adds cleansing power and boosts rinse-off. In bath and body products it is used to ensure the oil in the product disperses into the bath rather than pooling on the top of the bath water, presenting a slipping hazard. The dispersion is also important for essential oils to ensure they are well diluted in the bath water rather that floating in a concentrated blob on the surface. |
| Do you need it? | It isn’t essential, but it is the most cost effective solubilizer option. |
| Strengths | Inexpensive and effective. |
| Weaknesses | It can have a tacky/sticky skin feel that comes through in finished products. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions | Check out this page to learn more about making solubilizer substitutions.
You cannot Polysorbate 80 instead of a complete emulsifying wax, and you cannot use a complete emulsifying wax in place of Polysorbate 80. You cannot use a liquid surfactant in place of Polysorbate 80, and Polysorbate 80 is not a good alternative for a liquid surfactant. |
| How to Work with It | Mix the Polysorbate 80 with the oil phase before gently whisking it into the water phase. |
| Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Polysorbate 80 should last at least 2 years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | It can cause some foaming in your products but it isn’t a surfactant and cannot be used in place of surfactants in recipes. |
| Recommended starter amount | 100mL (3.3fl oz) |
| Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |
Some Recipes that Use Polysorbate 80
- Soothing Cleansing Balm
- Candy Corn Bath Bombs
- Sea Buckthorn and Charcoal Cleansing Balm
- Eucalyptus Mint Soft Cleansing Balm
- Vinolia Lemon Rose Bath Bombs
- Lavender Spruce Bath Bombs
- Ginger Oak Moss Cleansing Balm Stick
- Snowflake Emulsified Scrub Nuggets
Thank you to Zack for helping with this entry!
