|What is it?||Ritamulse SCG is a plant-derived ECO-CERT complete emulsifying wax for creating oil-in-water emulsions. It is often re-named by suppliers and can be found sold under names like “Emulsimulse” and “ECOMulse“. Clariant also sells a product called “Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30” with an identical INCI. Refer to the INCI and any documentation your supplier provides to confirm what you’ve got.|
|INCI||Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate|
|Appearance||Thin, flat white flakes.|
|Approximate Melting Point||81.1°C (178°F)|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||In lotions and creams it functions as an all-in-one emulsifier as well as contributing thickening. I find emulsions made with Ritamulse SCG tend to be thicker than emulsions made with Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.
In cleansing oils and balms it creates products that self-emulsify on contact with water. It also brings the “cleansing” element as Ritamulse SCG is made up of molecules that have an oil-loving and a water-loving end; the oil-loving end grabs the oil on your skin, and the water-loving end grabs the water you are washing with to rinse away easily.
|Do you need it?||No; it is not as versatile as other emulsifying waxes like Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.|
|Strengths||It is a fairly easy-to-use complete emulsifying wax that creates beautiful, rich feeling emulsions with a lovely powdery finish.|
|Weaknesses||It can be harder to find (and more expensive) than more standard emulsifying waxes like Emulsifying Wax NF. It can also be harder to use successfully.
It is only suitable for formulations with an oil phase up to 25%.
RitaCorp states the ideal pH range for finished formulations using their emulsifier is 5–7.5, which may be incompatible with more natural preservatives that require a lower pH to function. However, Clariant says their Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30 is compatible with a pH range of 4–10, so I think you’re likely to be fine working with a wider pH range.
It is not compatible with cationic ingredients.
|Alternatives & Substitutions||Olivem 1000 is likely the easiest alternative for Ritamulse SCG as it is also ECO-Cert compliant and creates emulsions with a similarly thick, fluffy feel. You could also use Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.
You cannot use a solubilizer, like Polysorbate 80, in place of Ritamulse SCG.
You cannot use a true wax, like beeswax, in place of Ritamulse SCG.
|How to Work with It||Melt it into your heated oil phase; it needs to be heated to incorporate.|
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Ritamulse SCG should last at least a year.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||Ritamulse SCG is helps boost the moisturizing properties of your emulsions.|
|Recommended starter amount||50–100g (2–3oz)|
|Where to Buy it||Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.|
Some Formulations that Use Ritamulse SCG
- Winter Solstice Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer
- Hemp & Shea Hand and Body Lotion
- Summer Glow Body Lotion
- Watermelon Mint Hand & Body Lotion
- Creamy Autumn Grounding Lotion
- Sugar Plum Facial Lotion
- Rose Cardamom Body Lotion
- Houdini Anti Acne Creme
- Fir, Cypress, and Silk Body Lotion
- Winter Shimmer Body Lotion
- Gold, Frankincense, & Myrrh Lotion
- Pumpkin Spice Body Lotion
- Oktoberfest Oat Stout Lotion
- Summer Shimmer Body Lotion
- Egyptian Magic Lotion
- Cocoa Butter Body Meringue
- Mocha Body Lotion
- Candy Cane Body Lotion
- Healing Herbal Hemp & Shea Lotion
- Cupuaçu & Cardamom Lotion