Ritamulse SCG (Emulsimulse, ECOMulse)

What is it? Ritamulse SCG is a plant-derived ECO-CERT complete emulsifying wax for creating oil-in-water emulsions. It is often re-named by suppliers and can be found sold under names like “Emulsimulse” and “ECOMulse“. Clariant also sells a product called “Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30” with an identical INCI. Refer to the INCI and any documentation your supplier provides to confirm what you’ve got.

Ritamulse SCG is approximately 55–65% glyceryl stearate, 20–30% cetearyl alcohol, and 10–20% Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (source).
INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Appearance Thin, flat white flakes.
Usage rate 2–10%
Scent Nothing much.
Approximate Melting Point 81.1°C (178°F)
Charge Anionic
Solubility Oil
Why do we use it in formulations? In lotions and creams it functions as an all-in-one emulsifier as well as contributing thickening. I find emulsions made with Ritamulse SCG tend to be thicker than emulsions made with Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF (when used at the same usage rate).

In cleansing oils and balms it creates products that self-emulsify on contact with water. It also brings the “cleansing” element as Ritamulse SCG is made up of molecules that have an oil-loving and a water-loving end; the oil-loving end grabs the oil on your skin, and the water-loving end grabs the water you are washing with to rinse away easily.
Do you need it? No; it is not as versatile as other emulsifying waxes like Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF.
Strengths It is a fairly easy-to-use complete emulsifying wax that creates beautiful, rich feeling emulsions with a lovely powdery finish.
Weaknesses It can be harder to find (and more expensive) than more standard emulsifying waxes like Emulsifying Wax NF. It can also be harder to use successfully.

Formulator Sample Shop notes Ritamulse SCG can emulsify up to 25% oils, while Clariant says their INCI-identical Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30 “can emulsify polar and non-polar oils at least up to 30%”.

RitaCorp states the ideal pH range for finished formulations using their emulsifier is 5–7.5, which may be incompatible with more natural preservatives that require a lower pH to function. However, Clariant says their Plantasens® Emulsifier HP 30 is compatible with a pH range of 4–10, so I think you’re likely to be fine working with a wider pH range.

It is not compatible with cationic ingredients.
Alternatives & Substitutions Olivem 1000 is likely the easiest alternative for Ritamulse SCG as it is also ECO-Cert compliant and creates emulsions with a similarly thick, fluffy feel. PolyAquol™-2W, Plantasens® HE20, and MONTANOV™ 68 MB will also work. If your formulation contains a gum/gelling ingredient (or can be modified to include one), Glyceryl Stearate SE should work as well.

You could also use Polawax or Emulsifying Wax NF for non-natural alternatives.

You cannot use a solubilizer, like Polysorbate 80, in place of Ritamulse SCG.

You cannot use a true wax, like beeswax, or an isolated fatty thickener, like Cetearyl Alcohol, in place of Ritamulse SCG.
How to Work with It Melt it into your heated oil phase; it needs to be heated to incorporate.

Ritamulse SCG works at surprisingly low levels. I’ve used it at 20–25% of the oil phase for years, but recently tried it as low as 12% of the oil phase and it can work!
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Ritamulse SCG should last at least a year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Ritamulse SCG is helps boost the moisturizing properties of your emulsions.
Recommended starter amount 50–100g (2–3oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Ritamulse SCG

Skills

Posted on

November 24, 2018