Sea Kelp Bioferment

What is it? Sea kelp bioferment is a natural extract made from seaweed. It is a film former and oil-free moisturizer, and can be included in formulations for skin and hair or used neat (undiluted). Sea kelp bioferment is said to be the fancy signature ingredient in the very expensive La Mer cream!
INCI Lactobacillus/Nereocystis Luetkeana Ferment Filtrate
Appearance Slightly yellow transparent gel
Usage rate 2–5%, up to 100%
Texture Smooth, cool, wet/watery
Scent Nothing noticeable
pH 5–7.5
Charge Non-ionic
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Sea kelp bioferment functions as a film former, helping prevent transepidermal water loss. We include it in our products to make them more moisturizing.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Sea kelp bioferment only exists as a refined product.
Strengths It’s a great way to get the benefits of sea kelp in skin care without a fishy/kelpy smell.
Weaknesses Can be harder to find, and depending on where you live/shop it can be pricey.
Alternatives & Substitutions For a similar combination of film-forming and moisturizing I’d try a blend of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid gel and a hydrolyzed protein, like silk, for neat application. If the sea kelp bioferment is used at lower amounts in a product (5% or less) I’d probably replace it with half humectant (glycerin, propanediol 1,3, etc.) and half hydrolyzed protein, like silk.
How to Work with It Include sea kelp bioferment in the water phase of your products; it can be hot or cold processed. Ensure you mix it well if cold processing as it is quite viscous.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sea kelp bioferment should last a year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks I have found several different fermented sea kelp products, often differentiated by the preservative system included in the product. The one I have is from Windy Point (Lotion Crafter also sells it). From the different descriptions I’ve read all the products should work similarly, but as always, ensure you are fully reading descriptions so you know what you’re purchasing.
Recommended starter amount 30g (1.06oz)
Where to Buy it Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Sea Kelp Bioferment


Posted on

April 10, 2019