What is it? | Sodium Laureth Sulfate (sodium lauryl ether sulfate/SLeS) is an anionic surfactant made from coconuts. It should not be confused with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)—SLeS is much milder. |
INCI | Sodium Laureth Sulfate |
Appearance | Clear, viscous liquid or a smooth, thick paste—it is available at different concentrations and more concentrated versions are thicker. |
Usage rate | The CIR has not noted a maximum usage rate. Let the desired total active surfactant matter of your end product be your guide. |
Texture | Slippery, detergenty |
Scent | Characteristically detergenty |
Active Surfactant Matter | 26–70% (this varies with format; confirm with your supplier) |
pH | 7.5 (10% solution) |
Charge | Anionic |
Solubility | Water |
Why do we use it in formulations? | Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLeS) is an excellent lathering surfactant and is a great choice for a primary surfactant in any kind of foaming/cleansing product. It is also a fairly decent solubilizer. |
Do you need it? | No |
Refined or unrefined? | Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLeS) only exists as a refined product. |
Strengths | Fantastic lather, great cleansing. |
Weaknesses | It is still a sulfate, which some people prefer to avoid due to possible irritation or colour-treated hair. It also tends to get confused with SLS, which isn’t really a weakness of the product itself. |
Alternatives & Substitution | Generally speaking, you’d hope to replace any surfactant with one that is the same format and has the same charge. A similar pH and ASM would be nice, but those differences can be accommodated in the formulation. It is also nice if the surfactant has a similar feel and produces similar lather.
If you need a substitute for Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLeS), Sodium coco sulfate is another sulfate you may have on hand, though you will likely need to dissolve it in some water to create a liquid solution with a similar concentration to use it in place of SLeS. You can try Sodium C14-16 Alpha Olefin Sulfonate (Bio-Terge AS40) as an alternative liquid anionic non-sulfate surfactant, or even Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, though it is non-ionic and does not have the same high-foam properties. |
How to Work with It | Include it in the water phase of your formulations; it can be hot or cold processed. |
Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLeS) should last at least two years. |
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | There is quite a lot of misinformation about the safety of SLeS. I recommend giving this a read. Neither SLS or SLeS are carcinogens. |
Recommended starter amount | 250g (0.5lbs) (solid surfactant bars and bath bombs will use lots!) |
Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. |
Want to compare different surfactants?
Check out my super useful surfactants table!