Sodium Stearate

What is it? Sodium Stearate is saponified stearic acid—the sodium salt of stearic acid.
INCI Sodium Stearate
Appearance Fine white powder
Usage rate 0.5–20%
Texture Smooth powder
Scent Nothing noticeable
Approximate Melting Point 245–255° C
pH 10–11
Charge Anionic
Solubility Water, alcohol, cosmetic esters
Why do we use it in recipes? Sodium Stearate has a couple of really neat uses in cosmetics. It functions as a thickener/gelling agent and co-emulsifier. You’ll commonly find it in deodorants, where it is combined with propylene glycol or propanediol to create a solid stick base that actives can be added to.
Do you need it? No, but if you have a formulation that calls for it there’s no substitution.
Refined or unrefined? Sodium stearate only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Excellent thickener/gelling agent.
Weaknesses Harder to source than many ingredients, high pH.
Alternatives & Substitutions I haven’t found any viable alternatives for sodium stearate when used as a gelling agent. As a thickener, you might try stearic acid, but keep in mind stearic acid is not water-soluble like sodium stearate is.
How to Work with It Slowly sprinkle sodium stearate into the hot aqueous phase to dissolve, whisking to incorporate.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sodium stearate should last at least two years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Sodium stearate + propylene glycol or propanediol creates a very cool semi-translucent gelled solid!
Recommended starter amount 100g (3.5oz) or less.
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon.

Some Recipes that Use Sodium Stearate

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Posted on

July 23, 2019

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