| What is it? | Ultramarines are a synthesized pigment made from ingredients like kaolin clay and sulfur. The original blue pigment was ground from the semi-precious stone lapis lazuli, making it extremely expensive, and we’ve been synthesizing it since the early 1800s. |
| INCI | Ultramarines |
| Appearance | Vibrant fine pigments available in bright blue, lavender, and purple. |
| Usage rate | I haven’t been able to find a maximum usage level. These pigments are very potent, though, so I can’t imagine you needing more than 50% for most cosmetics. |
| Texture | Fine powder |
| Scent | Generally nothing noticeable, though it can be sulfur-y in high-pH environments |
| Solubility | Insoluble |
| Why do we use it in formulations? | As pigments, for colour. |
| Do you need it? | No, though if you are making cosmetics and want more natural bright blues and purples they are your only option. |
| Strengths | Strong, vibrant pigments that are generally considered natural. |
| Weaknesses | The blue in particular can be difficult to blend into formulas. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions | Lake dyes are the only alternative for such bright, potent pigments. |
| How to Work with It | Include in the grinding phase for powdered cosmetics or blend into melted creamy bases.
Ultramarine is not approved for lip use in the USA, but it is in the EU. |
| Storage & Shelf Life | Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, ultramarine pigments should last at least five years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks | Due to the sulfur used in the manufcature of ultramarines they can develop an eggy scent if used in products with a pH above 6. |
| Recommended starter amount | 10g (0.35oz) |
| Where to Buy it | Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |
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