Lipomoist™ 2036

What is it? Lipomoist™ 2036 is a specialized blend of hydrolyzed proteins (wheat and soy) and amino acids (serine, arginine, and proline) that boosts the moisturizing powers of our formulations.  Lipomoist™ 2036 is manufactured by Lipotec and is part of their Lipomoist™ line of products (Lipomoist™ 2013 and Lipomoist™ 2022 also exist, so make sure any research you’re doing is on the correct product).

According to Lipotec, Lipomoist™ 2036 “forms a moisturizing protective film on the skin, increases the cellular protein levels, [and] induces formation of collage IV”.

INCI Aqua, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Pectin, Proline, Serine, Arginine, Glucose, Butylene Glycol, Chondrus Crispus (Carrageenan) Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin.
Appearance Off-white cloudy, wobbly gel
Usage rate 3–10%
Texture Slippery, wet.
Scent Faint and unremarkable.
pH 6–7.5
Solubility Lipomoist™ 2036 is water-soluble.
Why do we use it in formulations? Lipomoist™ 2036 is an excellent addition to moisturizing skincare and haircare formulations.
Do you need it? No, but it is nice to have, especially if you have dry skin.
Refined or unrefined? Lipomoist™ 2036 only exists as a refined product.
Strengths It’s an easy and effective way to amp up the moisturizing powers of your formulations.
Weaknesses It is not super widely available.
Alternatives & Substitutions I’d try a hydrolyzed protein or two (silk, quinoa, oat, baobab, quinoa, rice, etc.), possibly combined with a humectant like sodium lactate or vegetable glycerin. If a formulation called for 5% Lipomoist™ 2036 I’d try replacing it with 3–4% hydrolyzed protein(s) of choice and 1–2% humectant. It won’t be quite the same, but you’ll still get some good moisturizing in your formulation.
How to Work with It Include Lipomoist™ 2036 in the cool-down phase of your formulations, incorporating at or below 40°C (104°F).
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Lipomoist™ 2036 should last at least 18 months.

According to the product datasheet from Lipotec, Lipomoist™ 2036 is preserved with Phenoxyethanol (1.035%), caprylyl glycol (1%), ethylhexylglycerin (0.5%), and butylene glycol (0.11%)

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Lipotec lists two different INCIs for this product, depending on where you look. The shorter INCI listed on UL Prospector is “Aqua (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pectin (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein (and) Serine (and) Arginine (and) Proline”. This shorter INCI does not specify which proteins are included or include the ingredients used to preserve the product. Your supplier may use either INCI.
Recommended starter amount 30g (1.06oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Lipomoist™ 2036

Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed oats (or hydrolyzed oat protein; the names seem to be used interchangeably) is a liquid made from oat protein that has been modified to be water-soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed oat protein
Appearance Thin amber liquid
Usage rate 0.5–8%
Scent Nothing noticeable in finished products
pH 4–6
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Hydrolyzed oat protein helps boost the moisturizing properties of our products by helping hold
Do you need it? No, but it is a good starter hydrolyzed protein.
Strengths Excellent moisture retention with improved skin feel.
Weaknesses Those with severe wheat allergies may wish to avoid hydrolyzed oat protein due to possible cross-contamination concerns.
Alternatives & Substitutions A different hydrolyzed protein would be the best substitution for hydrolyzed oat protein. Try silk, baobab, quinoa, rice, or wheat.
How to Work with It Include it in the water phase of your recipe; it can be hot or cold processed. If I can put it in the cool-down phase I will.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, hydrolyzed oat protein should last 12–18 months.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Hydrolyzed oat protein will typically contain preservatives as it is an aqueous product; check the spec sheets from your suppliers to find out what preservative is in the one your purchase if that matters to you.
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Hydrolyzed Oat Protein

Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed baobab protein is made from the protein of the seeds of the baobab tree, which is also called the “Tree of Life”. The protein has been modified to be water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 2–5%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 4–6
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein is included in recipes to help strengthen, repair, and condition hair. It’s also a good film-former and moisturizer for skin. Hydrolyzed baobab protein has been found to help protect hair/reduce damage from chemical treatments (bleaching, chemical relaxers). It is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed baobab protein is an excellent ingredient for hair and skin care, helping protect and repair the hair, and moisturize the skin. It is said to have anti-aging effects for both skin and hair.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed proteins.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, quinoa, or rice.
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed baobab protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed baobab protein should last one year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Baobab trees can live for more than 2,000 years!
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein

Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein is protein from quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) that has been modified to make it water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Quinoa
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 1–10%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 4–5.5
Charge Hydrolyzed quinoa protein contains proteins with both cationic (positive) and anionic (negative) charges.
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Hydrolyzed quinoa protein is excellent for hair care, helping increase substantivity, protect the hair, increase hair dye uptake, and reducing hair dye wash-out. It is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed quinoa protein is fantastic for hair care products, adding shine, helping to protect the hair, and extending colour retention.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed proteins.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, oat, or rice.
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed quinoa protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein should last eighteen months.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Quinoa is a vegan complete protein, containing seventeen amino acids, which includes all eight essential (meaning our bodies cannot product them) amino acids.
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein from rice bran that has been modified to make it water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 1–5%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 3–5
Charge Hydrolyzed rice protein contains proteins with both cationic (positive) and anionic (negative) charges. This opposing charges help add volume to hair by repelling one another.
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Hydrolyzed rice protein has been shown to be fantastic for increasing the volume of the hair, in addition to being a good moisturizer and film former. It is recommended for sensitive skin, and is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No, but I sure like it!
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Rice Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed rice protein is an excellent volumizing ingredient for the hair and moisturizing ingredient for the skin.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed protein.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, oat, or quinoa..
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed rice protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein should last one year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks It is also possible to purchase a quat (cationic quaternary ammonium compound) made from hydrolyzed rice protein; this isn’t the same thing, but it looks like a fun ingredient to play with!
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Sea Kelp Bioferment

What is it? Sea kelp bioferment is a natural extract made from seaweed. It is a film former and oil-free moisturizer, and can be included in formulations for skin and hair or used neat (undiluted). Sea kelp bioferment is said to be the fancy signature ingredient in the very expensive La Mer cream!
INCI Lactobacillus/Nereocystis Luetkeana Ferment Filtrate
Appearance Slightly yellow transparent gel
Usage rate 2–5%, up to 100%
Texture Smooth, cool, wet/watery
Scent Nothing noticeable
pH 5–7.5
Charge Non-ionic
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in formulations? Sea kelp bioferment functions as a film former, helping prevent transepidermal water loss. We include it in our products to make them more moisturizing.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Sea kelp bioferment only exists as a refined product.
Strengths It’s a great way to get the benefits of sea kelp in skin care without a fishy/kelpy smell.
Weaknesses Can be harder to find, and depending on where you live/shop it can be pricey.
Alternatives & Substitutions For a similar combination of film-forming and moisturizing I’d try a blend of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid gel and a hydrolyzed protein, like silk, for neat application. If the sea kelp bioferment is used at lower amounts in a product (5% or less) I’d probably replace it with half humectant (glycerin, propanediol 1,3, etc.) and half hydrolyzed protein, like silk.
How to Work with It Include sea kelp bioferment in the water phase of your products; it can be hot or cold processed. Ensure you mix it well if cold processing as it is quite viscous.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sea kelp bioferment should last a year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks I have found several different fermented sea kelp products, often differentiated by the preservative system included in the product. The one I have is from Windy Point (Lotion Crafter also sells it). From the different descriptions I’ve read all the products should work similarly, but as always, ensure you are fully reading descriptions so you know what you’re purchasing.
Recommended starter amount 30g (1.06oz)
Where to Buy it Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Sea Kelp Bioferment

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