Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed baobab protein is made from the protein of the seeds of the baobab tree, which is also called the “Tree of Life”. The protein has been modified to be water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 2–5%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 4–6
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in recipes? Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein is included in recipes to help strengthen, repair, and condition hair. It’s also a good film-former and moisturizer for skin. Hydrolyzed baobab protein has been found to help protect hair/reduce damage from chemical treatments (bleaching, chemical relaxers). It is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed baobab protein is an excellent ingredient for hair and skin care, helping protect and repair the hair, and moisturize the skin. It is said to have anti-aging effects for both skin and hair.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed proteins.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, quinoa, or rice.
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed baobab protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed baobab protein should last one year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Baobab trees can live for more than 2,000 years!
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Recipes that Use Hydrolyzed Baobab Protein

Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein is protein from quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) that has been modified to make it water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Quinoa
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 1–10%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 4–5.5
Charge Hydrolyzed quinoa protein contains proteins with both cationic (positive) and anionic (negative) charges.
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in recipes? Hydrolyzed quinoa protein is excellent for hair care, helping increase substantivity, protect the hair, increase hair dye uptake, and reducing hair dye wash-out. It is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed quinoa protein is fantastic for hair care products, adding shine, helping to protect the hair, and extending colour retention.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed proteins.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, oat, or rice.
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed quinoa protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein should last eighteen months.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Quinoa is a vegan complete protein, containing seventeen amino acids, which includes all eight essential (meaning our bodies cannot product them) amino acids.
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Recipes that Use Hydrolyzed Quinoa Protein

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

What is it? Hydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein from rice bran that has been modified to make it water soluble.
INCI Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Appearance Thin brown liquid
Usage rate 1–5%
Texture Thin, watery
Scent Mild
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
pH 3–5
Charge Hydrolyzed rice protein contains proteins with both cationic (positive) and anionic (negative) charges. This opposing charges help add volume to hair by repelling one another.
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in recipes? Hydrolyzed rice protein has been shown to be fantastic for increasing the volume of the hair, in addition to being a good moisturizer and film former. It is recommended for sensitive skin, and is a good hydrolyzed protein choice for anyone seeking a vegan, gluten-free option.
Do you need it? No, but I sure like it!
Refined or unrefined? Hydrolyzed Rice Protein only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Hydrolyzed rice protein is an excellent volumizing ingredient for the hair and moisturizing ingredient for the skin.
Weaknesses It’s one of the harder-to-find hydrolyzed protein.
Alternatives & Substitutions Try other hydrolyzed proteins, like silk, oat, or quinoa..
How to Work with It Include hydrolyzed rice protein in the water phase of your formulations; it should be added to the cool down phase or cold processed.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein should last one year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks It is also possible to purchase a quat (cationic quaternary ammonium compound) made from hydrolyzed rice protein; this isn’t the same thing, but it looks like a fun ingredient to play with!
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Recipes that Use Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Sea Kelp Bioferment

What is it? Sea kelp bioferment is a natural extract made from seaweed. It is a film former and oil-free moisturizer, and can be included in formulations for skin and hair or used neat (undiluted). Sea kelp bioferment is said to be the fancy signature ingredient in the very expensive La Mer cream!
INCI Lactobacillus/Nereocystis Luetkeana Ferment Filtrate
Appearance Slightly yellow transparent gel
Usage rate 2–5%, up to 100%
Texture Smooth, cool, wet/watery
Scent Nothing noticeable
pH 5–7.5
Charge Non-ionic
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in recipes? Sea kelp bioferment functions as a film former, helping prevent transepidermal water loss. We include it in our products to make them more moisturizing.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Sea kelp bioferment only exists as a refined product.
Strengths It’s a great way to get the benefits of sea kelp in skin care without a fishy/kelpy smell.
Weaknesses Can be harder to find, and depending on where you live/shop it can be pricey.
Alternatives & Substitutions For a similar combination of film-forming and moisturizing I’d try a blend of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid gel and a hydrolyzed protein, like silk, for neat application. If the sea kelp bioferment is used at lower amounts in a product (5% or less) I’d probably replace it with half humectant (glycerin, propanediol 1,3, etc.) and half hydrolyzed protein, like silk.
How to Work with It Include sea kelp bioferment in the water phase of your products; it can be hot or cold processed. Ensure you mix it well if cold processing as it is quite viscous.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, sea kelp bioferment should last a year.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks I have found several different fermented sea kelp products, often differentiated by the preservative system included in the product. The one I have is from Windy Point (Lotion Crafter also sells it). From the different descriptions I’ve read all the products should work similarly, but as always, ensure you are fully reading descriptions so you know what you’re purchasing.
Recommended starter amount 30g (1.06oz)
Where to Buy it Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Recipes that Use Sea Kelp Bioferment

Brassica Campestris Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

What is it? Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer is a biodegradable natural polymer made from canola and tung oils. It functions as an emollient, occlusive, film-former, and skin protectant.
INCI Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Appearance Dark brown liquid
Usage rate 1–10%
Texture Thick, sticky, unctuous paste-like liquid
Scent Bland
Absorbency Speed Slow
Approximate Melting Point Liquid at room temperature
Solubility Oil
Why do we use it in recipes? Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer is an excellent skin protectant and emollient, with great smoothing and moisturizing properties. It’s great in both hair and skin formulations, and also helps fragrances last longer.
Do you need it? No
Refined or unrefined? Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Naturally derived, biodegradable polymer with great moisturizing and skin protecting properties.
Weaknesses I haven’t seen it for sale very many places.
Alternatives & Substitutions I think liquid lecithin would probably be your best bet; lanolin may also work well.
How to Work with It Include Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymerin the oil phase of your formulations;
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer should last at least two years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks You’ll probably be surprised by how incredibly thick Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer is—I don’t recommend using a pipette to dispense it!
Recommended starter amount 100g (3.5oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier; mine is from Essential Wholesale.

Some Recipes that Use Brassica Campestris / Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Polyquaternium 7

What is it? Polyquaternium 7 is a water soluble cationic co-polymer.
INCI Polyquaternium-7
Appearance Clear, very viscous liquid.
Usage rate 0.2–5%
Texture Silky smooth and very thick.
Scent Nothing distinguishable
pH 3–4.5 (I did find a few versions with pH values closer to 7; check with your supplier to confirm)
Charge Positive/cationic
Solubility Water
Why do we use it in recipes? Polyquaternium 7 is conditioning, and it has an absolutely incredible skin and hair feel. I love it in my Foaming Shaving Cream for the most incredible slip and gorgeous rich feel. In hair products it gives substantivity without build-up and improves comb-through. It is advertised as having “very good compatibility with many anionic surfactants”, making it useful in body washes and shampoos. Generally speaking, it makes your projects feel divine and leaves skin and hair feeling silky smooth and conditioned without any hint of greasiness. It also functions as a film former, helping keep the skin and hair moisturized.
Do you need it? No, but it is lovely.
Refined or unrefined? Polyquaternium 7 only exists as a refined product.
Strengths Polyquaternium 7 is an excellent conditioning ingredient with great skin feel—and it doesn’t smell fishy, like some alternatives.
Weaknesses Can be a challenge to find abroad, not generally considered to be “natural”.
Alternatives & Substitutions Honeyquat would be a decent alternative, but it does have a very distinct fishy smell that is widely considered to be unpleasant. I’ve had readers complain of honeyquat making products unusable due to the scent at 2%. Whatever you use as a substitute, it needs to be positively charged and water soluble as a bare minimum.
How to Work with It Include Polyquaternium 7 in the cool down phase of your projects.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry,
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks At 2% I find Polyquaternium 7 adds enough thickness to otherwise watery serums to make them too thick to mist!
Recommended starter amount 30mL (1fl oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon.

Some Recipes that Use Polyquaternium 7

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