C10-18 Triglycerides (Butter Pearls)
|What is it?||C10-18 Triglycerides are a fatty thickener, used to boost viscosity, stability, and richness in our formulations.
Simply Ingredients sells C10-18 Triglycerides as “Butter Pearls”, which is a very fitting name! Their product appears to be Premier OliPearls by Premier Specialties, Inc.
Other manufacturers also make a product with this INCI: LIPOCIRE™ A SG by Gattefossé, MM Wax® 10-18 by MMP International, and DUB CIRE H1 by Stearinerie Dubois.
|Usage rate||0.5–30% (You can go higher, especially if you live somewhere quite hot)|
|Texture||When added to formulations, C10-18 Triglycerides contributes a rich, silky skin feel.|
|Scent||Slightly fatty—nothing noticeable in finished formulations.|
|Absorbency Speed||C10-18 Triglycerides tends to slow the absorbency speed of formulations it is added to as it makes formulations feel richer.|
|Approximate Melting Point||45–55°C|
|Solubility||C10-18 Triglycerides are oil soluble|
|Why do we use it in formulations?||C10-18 Triglycerides is included in formulations to make them feel richer, to boost viscosity, to harden/solidify, and to improve stability.
C10-18 Triglycerides is a good way to make a product solid and rich while maintaining good slip.
|Do you need it?||No, but I sure like C10-18 Triglycerides!|
|Refined or unrefined?||C10-18 Triglycerides only exists as a refined ingredient|
|Strengths||Rich, creamy thickening with beautiful skin feel. Very versatile.|
|Weaknesses||Harder to find than other fatty thickeners, like cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid.|
|Alternatives & Substitutions||I’d try a blend of cetearyl alcohol and stearic acid; probably 70% cetearyl alcohol and 30% stearic acid? You’ll have to test it yourself and see what works for the particular formulation you’re using.
A pseudo wax, made from hydrogenated oils, could potentially work.
I do not recommend using a true wax, like beeswax or candelilla wax, instead of C10-18 Triglycerides.
|How to Work with It||Include C10-18 Triglycerides in the heated oil phase of your formulations. It needs to be melted.|
|Storage & Shelf Life||Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, C10-18 Triglycerides should last at least two years.|
|Tips, Tricks, and Quirks||It is possible for this ingredient to be made from animal sources, but I haven’t found versions made from non-vegetable sources. The product Simply Ingredients sells is made from olives.|
|Recommended starter amount||100g (3.5oz)|
|Where to Buy it||Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier. Mine is from Simply Ingredients. The Formulary sells it in the UK.|