After the rather surprising success of my Quick Guide to Beeswax & Liquid Oil Ratios post, it seemed like a good idea to do more of them, with different ingredients. So, today I’m venturing further into vegan wax territory. Carnauba wax, also called Brazil wax is a plant based wax, derived from the leaves of Copernicia prunifera, a plant that only lives and grows in northeast Brazil. It is a very brittle wax, with a melting point of 82–86 °C, compared to beeswax’s ~63°C melting point. It’s used in everything from shoe polish and dental floss to mascara and eyeliner, and I wanted to understand how it works a bit better.
I used the same method for this experiment as for the last wax and liquid oils guide. Working with 1g increments, I tested ratios of 1:1 through 1:8, increasing the amount of oil (I used olive oil (pomace) (USA / Canada) again), and always using 1 gram of carnauba wax. So, 1:1 was 1 gram of each, while 1:8 was 1 gram of wax and 8 grams of olive oil (pomace) (USA / Canada).
I labelled each little tin, melted them one by one in a water bath, and then let them set up for four full days as most sources agree that it takes carnauba wax up to three days to reach its full hardness after being melted. At any rate, anything you make with it is likely to last longer than four days, so it seemed prudent to wait.
When it came time for my observations, I used the same criteria as I did with the beeswax experiment:
- How hard was it? I tested this by pressing on the surface of the mixture with my fingertip (as you would to apply a salve or lip balm), and then scraping with a fingernail.
- How quickly did it melt? This was pretty easy to observe by simply handling bits of each mixture.
- How sticky was it? I rubbed the mixtures into my arm and tested to see how tacky they were.
- How was the slip? I tested this by rubbing bits of the mixture on my lips as they are more sensitive than my arm, and also very familiar with lip balm.
And, as before, I did everything in my house, with an average ambient temperature of about 20°C. So, if you live somewhere drastically warmer than I do, you will likely find these observations a little on the harder side.
1:1—Skiddy on the top when you run your fingers across the surface. I can’t press through it, but I might have made it crack a bit. Very tacky and hard—pretty much useless.
1:2—Still very hard. I was able to shatter it with a lot of force, and the bits that break off are smooth, brittle, and thin. Still sticky, and not very useful.
1:3—Still very hard. I can’t push through this one with my finger tip, either. I eventually got it to crack with an audible cracking sound. The shards glide nicely across the skin, and are smooth. I can get a small amount of melt from extended contact with the mixture. This would be a good texture for a hard body butter bar where you wanted a very thin application.
1:4—Smooth surface, melts a bit with some rubbing. I can press through the mixture with some effort, and it is definitely still solid. This is the first one that I can dent instead of shatter. The bits that come up glide across the skin nicely. This is solid body butter bar territory.
1:5—Smooth and hard, with moderate melting when rubbed with a finger. Still pretty darn hard, though. Dents more, shatters less. Good melt and glide, would make a nice body balm.
1:6—Smooth, great glide. I can dent it when pressed with my finger, but it’s still pretty hard and definitely solid. A thin, faster melt—would be good for a softer, thin balm.
1:7—This is the first one that’s easy to dent. Smooth, fast melt. This one would be good for a soft balm.
1:8—Soft and relatively smooth. Fast melt, would be good for a soft balm. Thin melt, great slip.
Some lessons learned:
- Carnauba wax is much more like candelilla wax than beeswax
- Offers good gloss and shine in higher concentrations
- Creates a thin final product with little staying power—you’d want to pair it with something stickier for a lip balm
- Not very useful at 1:1 and 1:2 levels
Hard? | Solid? | Melt speed | Sticky? | Slip | |
1:1 | Very | Yes | Slow | Yes | Terrible |
1:2 | Very | Yes | Slow | Yes | Poor |
1:3 | Very | Yes | Slow | No | Good |
1:4 | Yes | Yes | Slow | No | Good |
1:5 | Yes | Â Yes | Moderate | No | Â Good |
1:6 | Yes | Yes | Moderate | No | Good |
1:7 | No | Yes | Fast | No | Great |
1:8 | No | Yes | Fast | No | Great |
Marie,
Another excellent post! I have been wondering about carnauba wax and whether it would be more useful for certain products than candillila or beewax. Thank you again for anticipating my needs!
You’re very welcome, Cathryn!
Four years later, this is still an incredibly thorough and helpful article. Thank you so much for putting time into sharing your findings.
1:5 – Rubbed by a ginger, I knew we were hot… but dang!! 😉 hehe in seriousness, great posts! Very helpful!
Good catch! I fixed it 😉 This experiment wasn’t quite that racy!
Hi Marie, which ratio would you recommend for an eyeliner pencil? I made a recipe over the weekend using this recipe:
Beeswax 24%
Carnauba Wax 4%
Shea Butter 5%
Fractionated Coconut 8%
Jojoba Oil 20%
Castor Oil 35%
Vitamin E Oil 4%
Total 100%
But it was way too soft! Do you think I should up the amount of carnauba wax and lower the amount of beeswax?
Without having made the recipe myself it’s hard to say. More of either wax will harden it up, but they will effect the texture differently. You may want to try just increasing the amount of carnauba wax (so you’re only dealing with one variable as much as possible) for a harder, glassier texture, and see what you think.
what ratio would you recommend for a candy like Swedish fish ?
Thank you so much for this. I’m dabbling into DIY make up that is vegan and natural and found your blog while trying to make eyeliner. I’m so glad I found you!
Thanks, Nik!
Thank you very much! Do you think this will work with virgin coconut oil instead of olive oil? Do you think you can do this experiment with coconut oil? I want to make deodorant but I am a vegan and I don’t use bee byproducts. I will like to substitute this wax for the beeswax the deodorant/antiperspirant recipe calls for.
In my experience coconut oil behaves quite differently than olive oil in these experiments (read through beeswax/olive oil and beeswax/coconut oil to see how). It’s possible I may do an experiment like this with coconut oil, but I can’t make any promises—and at any rate it would be months before I published it. So, if you are in a hurry, I suggest experimenting yourself 🙂
Thank you Marie, what a great post! I love your blog, so happy to have found you
Thanks, Anna!
Hi, I found this tutorial in my quest to find an approach for making a paw protector wax for my dog. I was wondering if any one had any advice for me on ratios to create a wax that is easy to spread but will stay on my pets feet and provide protection. Any ideas of how this was formulated? I also found a recipe that includes 100% Natural Human-grade Waxes with Vitamin E; White and Yellow Beeswax, Carnauba, and Candelilla Wax. I like this formula a lot and would like to try making it, maybe adding some beeswax. Can you recommend a ratio for me that feel would work? any suggestions appreciated!
Hi Valerie! Honestly, the first thing I’d try is a 1:1 blend of coconut oil and beeswax. It’s the waxiest mixture I’ve ever made that can still be spread (not hugely easily, but that is a trade-off when you want to include lots of wax). It’s brilliant for super dry winter lips 🙂 I find the “C” waxes to be so hard that they go on very, very thin, and aren’t idea for wintery applications like this.
Thanks for your suggestion Marie! Good to know!
I have used Musher’s Secret which is a combination “Yellow Beeswax, Carnauba, and Candelilla Wax and White & vegetable oils with vitamin E” – the consistency is similiar to like petroleum jelly in that you can scoop it out on your finer with ease. I really do love this stuff (I use it when I need a water proof barrier on my own hands! And it keeps my dogs paws soft as well as protects them. I was hoping to recreate this “wax” more or less. I wonder what “white” vegetable oils is. Any ideas? you can see the product here if you have a chance. https://leerburg.com/Photos/MushersSecret_04.jpg
In your first comment you put the “white” with the beeswax, so I’m assuming that means they used both bleached and unbleached beeswax. Other than that, they probably mean clear carrier oils (so nothing like green hemp or green olive). I’d recommend starting with a concoction that about 15–20% waxes (with the rest being liquid oils) and seeing what you think. Remember to give it at least three days to set up so the C waxes can do their thing, and be sure to work in weights and take notes!
Fantastic! I will do just that. Thank you so much for your thoughtful reply, much appreciated. My apologizes for the confusion. I found the additional ingredients listed elsewhere after my initial post.
May I ask one more question? I found another product on line Ingredients: Mineral Oil, Beeswax, Paraffin Wax, Silica, Orange Essential Oil. Do you know what the does silica in this recipe?
I will let you know my results.
Valerie
Hmm. It might be doing nothing, according to this article. Most of the articles I can find on it being good for skin and hair talk about consuming it, not applying it topically.
Hi Marie,
Love your article!!! its been great to read about the different waxes. I want to make a good tacky lip balm which good staying power. But I want to use only plant derived ingredients. What waxes would you recommend or do I need to pair it with beewax? I like beewax tackiness, but would prefer to use plant based waxes.
Check this out 🙂
Hey! I was wondering…
The recipe I’m working with now calls for 28 grams of beeswax. If I wanted to switch the ingredient from beeswax to carnauba wax; how many grams of carnauba wax should I use. (I’m not the best with math, so using your ratios would cause a train wreck for me haha)
Hi Daniel! I’d start with about 20g and see what you think, though it’s hard to say without knowing the desired final texture, other ingredients, or the total size of the recipe.
Thank you very much for this post! I am creating a vegan version of my popular Foxen Organics deodorants as a special order for my friends and customers but I have no experience with carnauba wax what so ever. I am a little nervous that it takes 3 days to reach its full hardness. Is this different from beeswax? Thank you for all of the help that you give to everyone who makes their own products from scratch!
Lynette Foxen
~Foxen Organics
Hi Lynette! I find it reaches about 90% hardness quite quickly, and then takes the rest of the three days to settle down and fully harden up. I do find it’s different than beeswax in that regard. I’d just build the extra waiting time into your recipe development 🙂
Hi Marie,
Thanks for the info. I’m using a shea nut butter base with some essential oils and have a wonderful result except that my creams melt as soon as the days get hotter!
Beeswax hasn’t held the viscosity either so I’m going in for the carnauba. Do you have any other tips before I start experimenting?
Thanks so much.
Janine
Hi Janine! You must live somewhere beautifully warm if your shea butter + beeswax is melting on you! Shea melts at 37°C and beeswax around 63°C, so your melting point would probably be somewhere north of 40°C. I think you’ll find the carnauba helps smooth out the shea, which can be a bit sticky. Have fun experimenting! Start small, and take notes 🙂
Hi Marie,
Do you think carnauba wax is less sticky than beeswax? I’m making a pomade and I know that when beeswax is mixed with oil, it can get really sticky thus making combing even harder.
Thanks in advance!
Hi Adi! Both of the “C” waxes are significantly less sticky than beeswax. Almost to a fault, really. I’m not sure how they’d do re: tangled hair in a pomade, but I think you would see a loss of sculptability with a C wax.
LOL — I’m looking for a wax finish to be applied hot to wood sculpture. As you note, the raw wax readily melts and mixes with oil. But I wondered what ratio I should be using — I want it to finish hard and be water resistant. Of course, I’ll use walnut oil, a ‘drying'(i.e.polymerizing oil) rather than olive oil. Based on your experiments,I’m thinking the 1:3 ratio and buffing after 24 hours. I had noticed that the wax takes a while to set up. Do you have other thoughts on this? Thanks.
Hey Jim! It sounds like you are definitely on the right track 🙂 You will likely find that your sculpture has a nice sheen to it once coated and buffed, as carnauba wax is quite glossy, but I’m guessing that’s what you’re going for 😉 Enjoy!
Hello I am trying to find out what to add to a castor oil lip gloss base in order to make it into matte liquid lipstick. I was assuming wax but I’m afraid it would harden it too much to just a regular lipstick form. I know the matte park but get stuck texture wise. Any ideas? Thanks!
I’ll have a matte liquid lipstick recipe in my book, so I won’t be sharing it here, but it’ll be available in the fall!
My business is mainly oils and butters from the Brazilian Amazon forest but I also sell little quantities of waxes for people who want to try their hands at DIY.
I was about to do this experiment when I found your post. Excellently done! I will instead share this link with my customers.
Thanks, Chrys! Happy to help 🙂
Hi Marie! Your whole blog is incredibly helpful! Thanks very much. I wanted to ask you which oil would you pair the carnauba wax with to make a sticky lip balm? I’m new at this. Thanks very much!
Hey Eugenia! Carnauba wax is so smooth that it’s going to make any oil paired with it smooth and glossy—beeswax is much better suited to making sticky things as beeswax is actually sticky 🙂
Dear Marie ji..
congrats for ur good work…
Can you please help me.
i want to know why you are using beeswax to melt carnauba wax??
can we melt carnauba wax alone without adding beeswax??
what beeswax is doing to support the melting of Carnauba wax
Hey Jagadish! I’m really not sure I understand what you are asking. There is no beeswax in this experiment at all…? There are just some mentions of beeswax as a comparison point.
Hello there
I am in a spot of bother.
I am having new Stainless steel bird cage made they are being made from 316 stainless and is being mirror polished so it will look like its all chrome but much better I am looking for a natural wax to protect the Finnish and not harm my birds I am a person so cleaning and disinfecting the cages and the appalling a safe wax to keep them looking good at the same time being safe for my cockatoos can you please help me find the right wax for the job I will not use chemicals that cajole make my birds sick thank you so much in advance for your time I have been think of Bees wax for a while now the cages are still being made I have 4 weeks left to find the answer.
Hey Andrew—I’m afraid I can really be of zero use here, I only work with these ingredients for skincare, and have never attempted to use them to polish anything other than wood. Sorry!
Hello! This information is really helpful! Yhabks! Do you know why my lip balms made with carnauba keep coming out very gritty?
I doubt it’s the carnauba wax—are you including any shea butter or other butters?
I am trying to make some gummy candies with a carnauba coating to make them less sticky and give them a slight shine similar to Swedish fish. Do you have any advice on what to melt the wax with as well as how to apply the final wax to the candies?
I’m afraid not, I’m more of a lipstick maker than a gummy maker! Good luck 🙂
Hi Alec,
I am also trying to apply carnauba wax on my gummies. Did you have any success with that? what was the ratio you used and maybe the best method of application you found?
I appreciate any of your insight.
did you find out any info on this ?
thanks
!
I tried the carnaubawax to make a balm and at first sight it was good. But then after a few days the balm was in a warm room,after that in cold room and then the balm changed. If you rubriek it you feel smalle balls in it. That is because of the carnaubawax because i didn’t have that problem with beeswax. Was i doing something wrong that the carnaubawax was not stabil? Did you or anyone have that problem before? My balm mixture is made of oil, cacao butterneut, shea butter carnaubawax,etherical oils and vitamine e.
It sounds like the shea butter is likely the problem; I’ve got an FAQ on this for more info 🙂
Hi Marie,
thank you so much for your research and your scientific approach!
I’m having issues with a deodorant recipe (replaced the beeswax with caranuba) and it created tiny little balls in the deodorant! Do you know what this is from ? Should I mix caranuba with another wax (I want to keep the recipe vegan…)
thanks
Is there any shea or mango butter in the recipe? I would suspect those butters moreso than the wax.
I need to make mold release wax using carnauba wax blends.would be thankful if you have any idea about the formulation
I’ve never heard of such a thing, sorry—doesn’t sound like a skincare product 😛
hey I’m trying to use this as a gummy coating , any advice please?
Anyone ?
I’m afraid not, I’m more of a lipstick maker than a gummy maker! Good luck
Hello! I found a great oil for my beeswax and I am wanting to try the Carnauba wax. I notice the C wax took longer to become soft vs the beeswax. I am wanting to combine both and was wondering what ratio to use for the waxes and oil?
Hi Courtney!
It would depend. Do you want it as a lip balm (really hard), a cuticle balm (hard), hand salve (firm), a gel like product (gel), or wicked soft (very soft)? Each of these would require lots of testing in your climate to see the ratios of liquid oil:beeswax:carnauba wax. I’d suggest giving it a go like Marie does in the recipe so you can get familiar with your ingredients as that is the most important part of becoming a DIY’er!
I’m suprised no one has talked about carnauba wax odor. It has a very distinct aroma and wanted to know if they sell refined carnauba wax. I’m asking because in my expirence, this was clashes with my EO. It has almost like a dry earthy smell. Don’t really like it
I JUST went and huffed my carnauba wax super deeply to see if I could find even a hint of stink/aroma… nuthin’. It doesn’t smell like anything. I’d definitely try a different supplier!
so I am looking to mix the carnauba oil for a natural nail conditioner/protectant with some natural shine. Any suggestions for ratios on that idea?
I’m afraid I don’t do much with my nails other than trim them—all I can recommend is making up a few little experiments like this one, apply them for a while, and see what you think!
Hi Marie,
I make my own wax for finishes on bowls that are turned on the lathe,
I am currently wanting to use walnut oil, carnuba oil and beeswax.
Do you have a formula as to the ratio to make a semi soft wax?
Any info would be very helpful,
Thanks
Roy
Nope, you’ll have to work that out yourself 🙂 Happy experimenting!
Thank you for your post. Being mildly chemically sensitive I recently delved into the world of milk paint. I tried a hemp oil finish, but as expected it ended up extremely flat. I really want a glossy finish and was happy to learn Carnauba wax was food grade and natural. Rather than add mineral spirits to the wax, I wanted to try hemp oil which will eventually dry, and to apply the wax while heated. Since my searches for furniture finish was returning no results, I broadened my search and found your post. Based upon your post, I think I will start with a 1:3 ratio with wax to hemp oil and see if I get a hard and slick finish, as I definitely don’t want sticky. Also, I plan to apply the wax while warm, I’m glad to learn it takes several days to setup!
Good luck! Do keep in mind that the several days to set up thing is more of a “it’ll get to 98% in less than 10 minutes and then can take a couple days to get that last 2% down” thing, so you’ll still have to work fast. Happy making!
Very helpful post… as always: )
I do have a question though. I recently purchased quite a bit of Carnauba wax, as I am making lotion bars and wanted a wax that had a higher melting point. (Las Vegas gets super hot!)
I spaced out, and wasn’t thinking that I would have to bring my oils & butters up to temp to combine (obviously duh!)
So… Using oils such as hemp, grape seed, safflower… Will I degrade them by heating them up to the 87c required to combine with carnauba?
I read somewhere that you shouldn’t heat oils with an Iodine level above 100.
Wondering if you could help me out at all with this predicament, & if my fate is back to beeswax/candelilla?
Lots of Love,
Austin
Thank you for this great post!
Can this be used in bath bombs as an emulsifier to help the carrier oils and fragrance oils mix with the water and avoid staining from micas around the tub ?