This update to my awesome airbrushing powder is designed to disguise excess redness in the skin while combating shine and giving your skin the appearance of perfection without heavy coverage. So, long story short, it’s pretty awesome.
Powder on the left side, and not on the right. I don’t have a hugely red complexion, but you can see the difference through the cheeks.
The majority of the powder is a blend of silky arrowroot starch and light-diffusing sericite mica (USA / Canada). The sericite mica (USA / Canada) is the perfection powerhouse of this powder, diffusing the light around your face to give the appearance of smooth perfection without covering up adorable freckles.
Absorbent clay and astringent cucumber extract battle excess oil and shine, and silk peptides help manage moisture and keep skin strong and healthy.
Magnesium stearate and isopropyl myristate add slip and adhesion. Both sound chemically, but are safe. Magnesium stearate is a magnesium salt of stearic acid, a naturally occurring fatty acid that’s found in things like cocoa butter (USA / Canada) and beef tallow. It gives great slip and adhesion to powdered cosmetics, making them feel creamy and lovely. Isopropyl myristate is made of isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and myristic acid (a common and naturally occurring fatty acid). It functions as a binder and an emollient, helping weigh down the final powder so it’s harder to inhale, and gives the final powder a wonderful velvety feel. If you don’t have it, jojoba oil (USA / Canada) works pretty well, too.
After all that, it’s time to colour the powder. The amount of iron oxides you’ll need will vary based on your skin tone, but you shouldn’t need too much of anything here as the powder is supposed to be translucent.
Now, you’re probably used to seeing red, yellow, and brown in face powders—but green? Green is our magical anti-redness ingredient. It counters red in the complexion brilliantly. You won’t need much at all (as you can see my powder doesn’t look green in the slightest). I recommend adding the green the tiniest amount at a time, testing it on your skin between additions, so you end up adding the exact right amount of green to counter the redness of your complexion. And then write that amount down so you can do it again next time 🙂
Red-be-Gone Airbrushing Powder
1 tbsp arrowroot starch (or cornstarch or wheat starch)
1 tbsp sericite mica (USA / Canada)
½ tsp silk peptides
½ tsp zeolite clay (or kaolin)
¼ tsp cucumber extract
1/8 tsp magnesium stearate15 drops isopropyl myristate (IPM) (USA / Canada / UK / Aus / NZ) (or jojoba oil (USA / Canada))
Red iron oxide, as needed
Yellow iron oxide, as needed
Brown iron oxide, as neededGreen iron oxide, as needed
For this project I’d really recommend working in a dust mask so you can avoid breathing fine powders, which is never a good idea. The final product is weighed down with the isopropyl myristate, but when you’re initially blending the dry powders they really pouf up when you take the lid off the coffee grinder, making them very easy to inhale. So—get a dust mask, and always leave the lid on the grinder for a few minutes after you’re done grinding.
Blend the starch, sericite mica (USA / Canada), silk peptides, clay, cucumber extract, and magnesium stearate together in your DIY coffee grinder.
Drop in the isopropyl myristate and blend until you have a nice, velvety powder.
Start adding your oxides. If your complexion is somewhat similar to mine you’ll need mostly yellow, and just a bit of red and brown (the teeniest of specks, not even a nip). Work slowly, take notes, and test the powder on your skin between additions, checking in a mirror to make sure you’ve got a match. Remember—we want to match parts of your face or skin that aren’t really red, so don’t go adding tons of red to the powder, that defeats the point!
Once you’ve got a good match for your not-very-red skin, it’s time to start adding the teeny-tiniest amounts of green chromium oxide. Test the powder on red bits of your skin—preferably bits that border on not-too-red parts. You’ve got a match when the powder neutralizes red areas to not-so-red areas.
Transfer the powder to a sifter jar. To use, buff the powder into your skin with a kabuki brush. If you find the powder looks dry on your skin try applying argan oil beforehand, and/or follow up with a setting spray. Enjoy!
Thanks for the recipe, looks great. Excited to give it a try. I have a good bit of red in my face! I do not have any green oxide, do you think a green clay would work? thanks
Hi Bobbie! The gist of the answer is likely no, as the green clay is not potent enough. Check out this article for more info 🙂
WOW! This would save me a lot of money from buying my base! I have the oxides, the sericite mica, and the jojoba oil…just need the magnesium stearate! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Awesome! Enjoy 🙂
Do you know of any alternatives when someone doesn’t want to use cornstarch/arrowroot etc?
Also, what is your opinion on adding Hyaluronic Acid powder to powders such as this for increased hydration? I’ve been seeing a lot of larger brands do this.
More sericite mica would work, as would talc if you’re interested in using that.
I don’t think I have an opinion on adding hyaluronic acid to powders. I haven’t tried it or tried any products that do that, so I don’t have any hands-on experience 🙂 Happy making!
Thank you Marie! I am so excited for this updated powder! I have everything except the isopropyl myristate, so I will be making it soon! I have to use the green oxide in my foundation because my complexion is quite yellow with an olive undertone, yet I am very light skinned; I have noticed that green oxide tends to be extremely potent in formulas, as red is. I have recently made a great tinted moisturizer and I use my (your recipe) airbrushing powder on top but I think this variation will be even better. I get the most excited when I see a new cosmetic post from you! Can’t wait to see a liquid foundation of some sort 😉
Thanks, Ashlynn! Enjoy it 🙂 (You wouldn’t believe how frustrating liquid foundation is proving… ugh!).
I can imagine! I have found a few recipes that I have made, that are okay, but they are like an RMS beauty or Vapour Organics kind of foundation stick that consists of oils and the minerals. It is nice and covers but it is a tiny bit oily and I don’t like the “dewy” look in the summer since my hair just sticks to it! Hopefully something will magically work out soon 😉
I could always do face lipstick, I suppose ;P The coverage would be fantastic! Flying seeds and leaves would also stick to your face, haha.
I am surprised that you use the isopropyl myristate. It’s a byproduct of isopropyl alcohol, which is made from propene – commonly produced from fossil fuels (petroleum, natural gas, and even coal). While organic, I wouldn’t necessarily call these things “good for you”. Curious about your stance on isopropyl alcohol in general – if you have one. (Ha! some people don’t. For example there’s a lot preservatives I avoid in my personal care products, but I’m not so picky about the preservatives that I eat – yet.) Thanks for adding the substitution for it for those of us that may not want to use it!
Hey Sherry! It’s not ideal, to be sure, but I’m always experimenting with new ingredients and trying to find things that produce great results and are safe. I haven’t decided if I love isopropyl myristate yet… we shall see!
I haven’t been able to find any cautionary tales about the isopropyl myristate either! I’m still debating whether to try it or to use the substitution. I just don’t know what else I would use IM for.
Well, be sure to let me know either way 🙂
Can I sub french green clay for green oxide? Do you know of any natural substitutes for red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, and brown iron oxide?
Check out this article for information on why I use oxides instead of clays in different formulas.
There really isn’t anything as opaque as oxides, but you could try clay! There are yellow, pink, red, brown toned clays you could use. Check out Marie’s post about colorants!
http://www.humblebeeandme.com/quick-guide-colourants/
Thanks! Potency really is key in cosmetics—too much of a clay will throw off the entire formula 🙂
Hello, from Las Vegas!!! I found your blog one night, last week when I couldn’t sleep and now that I’m all “caught up” I wanted to compliment you. Your blog is beautiful, charming, and useful! I am a long time DIY-er and plan to adapt many of our recipes in the near future.
I’ve never ordered from New Directions but it looks like a one-stop shop for many ingredients and will be adding items like cucumber extract to my arsenal shortly.
My motto is: I’m so crafty, I sweat glitter. So to you pretty lady: I say Keep Calm and Sparkle on!
I will be back to enjoy your blog soon. Thanks again for a delightful read!
oh and ps. I ended up going “old school” and diffusing lavender with peppermint EO and was out like a light after 2 hours of blog reading.
Hi Melissa! Thanks so much for reading 🙂 I’m so thrilled you found my blog in your midnight of need 😉 Be sure to get in touch if you have any questions, and sparkle on!
Can I sub green oxide for wheat grass powder?
No—see this article for why.
Hi Marie!
Any substitutes for the Cucumber extract? i am allergic to this one and love to make this powder…:)
Thanks!!
Ravit
You can just leave it out 🙂
This is fabulous Marie! It’s quickly becoming my go-to make up especially since I don’t need much as the weather warms up. Very nice for balancing out my face, which tends to be a bit red and turn redder at the drop of a hat. I had no trouble getting the color where I wanted it. I made it as written, except I left out the cucumber as I didn’t have it. I do often follow up with your setting spray. Thank you!!
Awesome! I’m so glad you’re loving the powder 😀 WOO for homemade cosmetics!
I have been using this powder for a few weeks now and let me tell you, it surpasses the other former airbrushing powder for me! I LOVE how it just softens the whole look of my face and how it really cancels redness. I have to keep green oxide on hand for my foundation because I am so olive/yellow toned, yet quite fair. This is really great for summer. I just use this, some mineral foundation as concealer with a really small eye brush and just pinpoint conceal, and a little argan oil serum on my lashes with some tinted lip balm! I will definitely be making your highlighting powder next, as that is the only thing apart from mascara that I still buy. Thanks so much!
Awesome! I’m so thrilled you’re loving it 🙂 WOO!
Had this bookmarked to make once I got the few remaining ingredients – that time was tonight! It works! While the color of the finished product does NOT match the powdered mineral foundation I usually use, when applied, it’s close to my skin tone and definitely reduces the red. This is great, as my face tends toward a general redness.
Awesome! I’m so glad you made it, you like it, and it works for you 😀 WOO!
Hi Marie, thanks for posting this recipe for us. Another fun recipe from you again! I made this, and do think it helps with redness. If I wanted to boost up the coverage with this could you make any suggestions on what to add?
Thank you!
Aubrey
Hi Aubrey! If you’re looking for more coverage I’d head over to my DIY Mineral Make-up and give that a go 🙂 You can “water” it down with starch to get the coverage you’re looking for if it’s too much 🙂
I wanted to try this. Sounds like a great recipe. I went to the store to get some sericite mica and they have two kinds – the shimmering and the matte. Which one are you using? What would be the uses for the two types of micas?
You want matte—I’ve never even heard of shimmering sericite mica, to the point of me wondering if what you saw was mis-labelled. Swifty Crafty Monkey has a blog on the different kinds available and “shimmering” is not mentioned at all, plus I’ve never seen it for sale. What you saw sounds like just straight-up silver mica, which definitely isn’t what you want 🙂
Hi Marie!
I love all your recipes and am eager to try this one in particular, but I was wondering: If I applied this over your clay cream blush, would it negate the redness of the blush and make it pointless? The amount of green oxide seems small enough that it wouldn’t be a problem, but I just figured I would ask. Would I be better off applying this powder as a base, putting the blush on top, and finishing with a non-green-neutralizing powder?
Thanks!
Hey Téa! When applying cosmetics your first step should be evening out the complexion with foundation/powder, so this powder should be one of the first things you apply. Blush would go over top 🙂 This isn’t a finishing powder, it’s more of a lightweight foundation/complexion corrector.
Thanks, Marie. I’m still trying to figure out the whole makeup thing, especially foundation-y layers, so I appreciate your response. So excited for your book, yours are the best formulas I’ve found anywhere!
No worries! If you’re looking for some good resources on cosmetic application, Lisa Eldrige is amazing. I have learned so much from her!
Thanks so much for reading 😀
Hi! Thank you for sharing this with us! I have been looking for something to tone down the redness in my skin. I am allergic to mica and was wondering if there are any substitution options that I could use instead?
Hey Haley! You could use silica microspheres instead, but with a few “buts”. They are quite a bit more expensive, and you can’t run them through a coffee grinder or you’ll destroy their feel, so that is going to make colour matching difficult as you’ll have to grind all the other ingredients (pigments included) together, and then stir in the silica at the end, and once the silica is in, you can’t add any more pigment as they have to be ground. So… yeah. That’s a bit tricky. They’re also highly absorbent, so they can be drying to the skin in high concentrations, especially if your skin is already dry.
Hope that helps!
Hi Marie, I bought the silk peptide from NDA for this powder and it smells really off – like dried fish or something. Is this normal? Even using only 1/2 tsp of the silk peptide in the powder gives it an strong smell. And when I applied the powder, it gave me a rash. Could it be spoiled? I’m thinking of making a separate batch without the silk peptide to see if it works better on my skin.
Hmm. Dried fish is… weird. Mine smells sort of sweet, and definitely protein-y, but not fishy. I’d contact NDA with your concerns, that does sound weird (and rashes are bad!). Let me know what they say 🙂
Thanks Marie, I’ll ask them.
I did make a new batch and left the silk peptide out, and it seems very nice. What is the silk peptide for?
Also, I’m having a hard time finding more sericite mica (NDA doesn’t carry it any longer), but did find sources for another plain mica called muscovite mica. Side by side, they look pretty similar. Just wondering if you know anything about the difference.
Thanks again!
The silk helps with moisture management (keeping skin from being too dry or too moist), and it can help with healing as well as contributing a bit of a silky sheen to the skin! It’s super cool stuff. Muscovite is the most common mica, so any mica you buy is likely going to be Muscovite. Point of Interest has a good post on all the different varieties of sericite here. This is the sericite I’m buying now that NDA has dropped it. (Also, BOO ON NDA for dropping almost all of their cosmetic ingredients!)
I love this formula but would like more opacity (coverage). I have tried the mineral makeup already but wonder if adding some titanium dioxide to this would give me the coverage I seek? I love the combo of titanium dioxide & zinc in my makeup powders. That combo covers EVERYTHING and sticks to my face!! Would I be able to alter this formula with those 2 items?
The best & easiest way to do this would be to add a wee bit of green pigment to one of the higher coverage versions of the airbrushing powder in my book 🙂 Happy making!
Got it! The book is on my birthday list at the end of this month but I dont think I can wait!!!! ;0)
Hi Marie
I found your blog when, I decided that, rather than pay the exorbitant prices for Boom Sticks, I’d find a recipe to make my
own (or at least something quite similar.)
Wow! Your site delivers the goods
Thank you Thank You Thank You
I immediately subscribed and followed you on FB.
My question for this lovely recipe: can you add something to it to give it an spf- factor?
Thank you again for sharing all of your fantastic recipes!
Welcome, and thanks for subscribing 🙂 Please give this article a read for info on DIY SPF. Happy making!