Today’s recipe is for a rich, fragrant body cream designed to soothe, soften, and hydrate dry and irritated winter skin. It is super thick and creamy (definitely not pumpable!), making it incredibly decadent to use. You’ll scoop up a silky dollop of this Rose Aloe Body Cream with your fingers and massage it into your skin. You will instantly notice the rich rose scent and the rich-but-not greasy consistency. As it absorbs it leaves your skin is soft, velvety, and super hydrated. This cream is just the thing for a bit of post-bath pampering on a cold winter night—I hope you love it as much as I do!
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I originally developed this cream as part of my Formula Botanica coursework last year, and came back to tweak it a bit as the winter itchies set in. I didn’t change much, but one thing I did tweak was the emulsifying wax. I used Olivem 1000 for the Formula Botanica version, but I’ve been finding urea seems to amplify the soaping effect in lotions, so urea + an emulsifying wax that is famous for soaping made for a cream that soaped quite aggressively on application. Switching the Olivem 1000 out for some Polawax made a big difference.
Our water phase is full of super hydrating, soothing ingredients like anti-inflammatory and healing-boosting aloe vera and panthenol. We’ve also got some great humectants (glycerine and sodium lactate), and some soothing colloidal oatmeal. This medley of lovely ingredients helps soothe our skin, keep it hydrated, and improve barrier function so it is less susceptible to everything from harsh cleansers to frigid winter winds.
The oil phase features silky, lightweight olive squalane and sebum-like jojoba oil. Both are excellent emollients, helping soften and moisturize the skin. I’ve also included a bit of silky-smooth cetyl alcohol to give the cream some gorgeous body without weighing it down.
Our possibly-star-ingredient is urea—this stuff is amazeballs. Urea is part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) of your skin, meaning your body produces it to help keep your skin happy and hydrated. Not only is it an extremely potent moisturizer, but it is also keratolytic, meaning it is gently exfoliating. It not softens and hydrates skin, but it also helps with skin cell turn over so any super dry, leathery skin doesn’t stand a chance (seriously, try it on your elbows, knees, and feet!). Basically, urea is safe and crazy effective, and if you suffer from dry skin you should really have some urea in your life! For way more awesome information, give this post from Simple Skincare Science a read.
A slightly annoying thing about urea is that it can cause the pH of our products to drift upwards over time, and if the pH drifts high enough the urea can break down, giving off an ammonia-y smell. Ingredients with buffering properties work to prevent this sort of change. I’ve seen gluconolactone used in a formulation with urea for this reason, but haven’t seen that particular ingredient in any store-bought urea products I’ve looked at. From my reading this pH shift seems to be very formulation dependent; one person reported a jump with their formula from ~pH 4 to ~pH 8 in a matter of days. I have not noticed anything that dramatic with this cream; it has changed from approximately 5 to 6 over a period of three months. This is within the range of stability for urea. That said, I’d recommend keeping your batch size to 100g or less and using it within 4–6 months—especially if you want to use a preservative with a narrower effective pH range than liquid germall plus.
The finished cream has become one of my favourite things to apply before bed time. The wonderful rose scent is perfect for winding down, and I love how richly hydrated my skin feels after using it. Farewell, winter itchies!
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Rose Aloe Body Cream
Heated water phase
22.83g | 22.83% distilled water
20g | 20% rose hydrosol
20g | 20% aloe vera juice
2g | 2% vegetable glycerine (USA / Canada)
4g | 4% sodium lactate (USA / Canada)
2g | 2% panthenol powder (vitamin B5) (USA / Canada)
1g | 1% colloidal oatmeal (USA / Canada)
Heated oil phase
5.67g | 5.67% Polawax (USA / Canada)
5g | 5% olive squalane (USA / Canada)
10g | 10% jojoba oil (USA / Canada)
2g | 2% cetyl alcohol (USA / Canada)
Cool down phase
5g | 5% urea (USA / Canada)
0.5g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)
Prepare a water bath by bringing about 3cm/1″ of water to a bare simmer over low to medium-low heat in a wide, flat-bottomed sauté pan.
Weigh the heated water phase into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Weigh the entire lot (measuring cup + ingredients) and note that weight for use later. Weigh the heated oil phase into a second heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place both measuring cups in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.
After about 20–30 minutes the oil part should be completely melted and the water part should be thoroughly dissolved. Remove the water bath from the heat and weigh it. Add enough hot distilled water to bring the weight back up to what it was before heating, and then pour the water part into the oil part. Stir with a flexible silicone spatula to incorporate.
Grab your immersion blender and begin blending the lotion, starting with short bursts so the still-very-liquid lotion doesn’t whirl up and spray everywhere. Blend for about a minute, leave to cool for ten, blend for another minute or two, and repeat this blend-cool-blend cycle until the outside of the glass measuring cup is barely warm to the touch and the lotion is thick and creamy.
When the lotion is cool it’s time to incorporate our cool down ingredients. Because cool down ingredients are typically present at very low amounts you’ll need to use an accurate scale—preferably one accurate to 0.01g. As these more accurate scales tend to have fairly low (100–200g) maximum weights you won’t be able to put the entire batch of lotion on that scale without blowing it out. So—grab a smaller dish. Add a scoop or two of lotion, and then weigh the cool down ingredients into that, using the more accurate scale. Stir to thoroughly incorporate, and then stir all of that back into the master batch of lotion. Doing it this way minimizes the amount of cool down ingredients lost to the secondary container.
Once your cool down ingredients have been incorporated you can transfer your lotion to its container! I recommend a 120mL/4oz wide-mouthed jar for this lotion as it is quite thick.
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this cream contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative this project is likely to eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 100g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this recipe, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there!
- Watch the pH for rapid upwards drift if you make any changes, especially to water soluble ingredients.
- You can use a different hydrosol if you prefer, or simply use more distilled water. Keep in mind the scent of the lotion comes from the hydrosol.
- You can use water instead of the aloe vera juice if you don’t have it.
- Vegetable glycerin and sodium lactate are both humectants; if you don’t have one or both replace them with different humectants like propanediol. A hydrolyzed protein like hydrolyzed silk would also be a decent alternative.
- I’d really recommend keeping the panthenol, but if you have to swap it out I’d go with a different humectant or hydrolyzed protein, as above.
- You can replace the colloidal oats with more panthenol, a humectant, or a hydrolyzed protein. You could also use more water.
- You could use emulsifying wax NF instead of Polawax. I’ve tried this formula with Olivem 1000 and while it does work, it soaps quite a lot.
- You can use different lightweight carrier oils (like sweet almond, grapeseed, sunflower seed, etc.) in place of either of the ones I’ve used.
- Cetearyl alcohol will work in place of cetyl alcohol. You could also use more liquid oil for a thinner end product.
- I really don’t recommend replacing the urea. If you need to, please read the encyclopedia page for ideas.
- If you’re like to use a different preservative, please review this page.
May I ask what method you used to measure pH of your cream?
I have both strips (fast) and a pH meter (more accurate), and I create 10% dilutions of the product to measure 🙂 SkinChakra has a great post on it!
I started reading the recipe and it said “For your nuts, butt and body”. I was like, “Ok Marie, this is a bit different!” until I realized the post began with an ad for something called Ballwash! .
BWahahahahahahahh! Oh my goodness LOL what a comedically perfect placement 😛
I bought urea from lotion crafters and the package had all sorts of warnings on it that urea could damage your eyes and skin
Is this only in dry form and once it is mixed into lotion it is safe?
I wanted to make a face cream but what would happen if it accidentally gets in your eyes?
Those warnings will be for the isolated ingredient—I recommend giving this post a read for some perspective 🙂 It’s safe when used as directed!
Loved your video and directions, can’t wait to try making this rose cream….Thankyou!
Thank you so much, Kris! 🙂
so many lotions …. so hard to decide. This one looks fabulous. @Katy G lol.
I’m definitely on a bit of a lotion kick right now—my skin is thanking me for it ha 😛
Hi Marie! This sounds like another wonderful project! I have a question about urea… Since it is a fairly new ingredient in your cabinet,I was wondering what you think (without making medical claims of course) about urea for psoriasis? As I’ve read,psoriasis is usually an internal gut problem and we’re dealing with that also, but its also like the skin goes into overdrive and builds up quicker than it can shed off. From your encyclopedia post about urea it seems that it may be able to help with this. What do you think? Also as it would be for my son I dont think he would appreciate the rose hydrosol lol. Could you recommend a hydrosol that might have some skin soothing properties and also not smell as “girly” as rose? Thank you so much for sharing all that you do. I love your experiments and get so excited when I see that notification that theres a new formula posted! This formula came at such a perfect time for us as its been a really cold winter in West Virginia this year and all of our skin is definitely suffering for it. Come on Spring! Lol Hope you have a wonderful week!
I really can’t comment on psoriasis. Urea does speed up skin turnover, though, so if too-fast-turnover is the problem, urea may be the opposite of beneficial. I would really ask a doctor, though—I know pretty much nothing about psoriasis and my degree is in graphic design so I am nowhere close to qualified to comment, sorry.
Chamomile would probably be my first choice as an alternative hydrosol 🙂
Thank you so much for reading and DIYing with me, and happy making!
Hi Crystal, in Germany Urea is in a lot of products meant to target Psoriasis. I used to have a lot of issues with itchy, dry skin (not Psoriasis, but similar) and making my own lotion with 10% Urea and no fragrances, helped me clear that up within about a month. I used this recipe initially https://www.hazelwitch.de/2018/11/05/shea-milk-mit-10-urea/. It has a bit higher percentage of Urea than the one form Marie above (it’s in German though). The main thing with using Urea is (and maybe Marie knows more about this) is that you have to add a Natrium lactate/Milk acid buffer, because otherwise it can start to fall out (or sth like that). Maybe this is helpful for you.
I hope this isn’t a stupid question but I’ve wondered it for ages and looked both up with no satisfactory answer. Is rose (for example) hydrosol the same as rose water ? Thanks in advance !
Not a dumb question at all! I recently published an FAQ on exactly this because it’s a rather irksome topic.
Thanks Marie. I missed that post which answered my question. That got me thinking about Extracts. I purchased Calendula Liquid Extract and wonder if there is an advantage to using an extract in place of floral water/hydrosol. I assume they aren’t interchangeable as the INCI lists Aqua and Glycerin followed by Calendula and a couple preservatives.
Extracts are much more concentrated than hydrosols; their usage rates are usually 5% or less while hydrosols can be used up to 100% 🙂 Don’t swap ’em, but you could pair ’em up (chamomile hydrosol + chamomile extract, etc.) for added, extra-strength chamomile-ness.
Thanks again Marie. Great info as always !
This sounds so so yummy Marie! A perfect winter treat for the skin!
And thanks for the tip on urea and pH drift. I will watch out for that in the lotions I make with it.
Thanks, Belinda! I haven’t noticed anything too extreme but it is definitely a good thing to be aware of 🙂
Since btms50 already has Cetyl Alcohol could I just use that?
Do you mean use BTMS-50 instead of cetyl alcohol? Or as your emulsifier? Before you go to make any swap, I’d strongly suggest reading this handy guide!
Hi Marie, so excited about using urea. I ordered some last week and it finally arrived yesterday! This cream looks like exactly what my skin is needing right now with this extreme polar-vortex winter we are having in Iowa! I was wondering about why you included the urea in the cool down phase? The information that came with the urea I ordered says to use it in the heated water phase so just wondering if it has something to do with interaction to the other ingredients when heated or if there is something else that I need to be aware about it? Thanks!
I found conflicting information about how heat stable urea is, and given the small amount it is easy enough to include it in the cool down phase. This is covered in the encyclopedia post on urea, too 😉
Hello, Marie. Can you make a lightweight moisturizer with honey that is fungal acne-safe? I’ve been resorting to DIY because of my fungal acne-prone skin and buying products can be expensive. I hope you can help us girlies with these nasties. Thank you! Your blog is wonderful!
I’ve had it floating around in my brain for a while, but there are so many things that can’t be used that I’m nervous that I’d stuff it up :/
I love the idea of making this but it’s way too complicated for me. Is there an easier way to create a body cream with urea? Thanks so much.
You could try having a look at some of Marie’s other recipes that are a bit simpler and try making those first, then try this one! 😀
I agree with Hana—check out one of my simpler recipes and include 5% or so urea. Just be sure to monitor the pH for upwards drift 🙂
Hi Marie! What a great recipe! Just what we need during this dry winter. Just wondering why this is categorised under ‘Hand and Body Washes?’
Ah, whoops! That category is right above “lotions” so it was a definitely mis-click. I’ve fixed it, thanks for the heads up!
I want to make rose aloe body cream, but I can’t find urea. I live in Canada and I looked at your encyclopedia but everywhere I checked doesn’t seem to carry it. Could it be listed under another name? I tried American companies to but again can’t seem to find it. Your link to amazon worked but it is out of stock and the company doesn’t ship to Canada. Please help
I got mine from Les Ames Fleurs in Quebec, but it’s not showing up on their site right now :/ Lotion Crafter in the USA has it, but that does mean international shipping. Making Cosmetics has it on Canadian Amazon, but it is coming from the USA.
I came across the same issue, and found that urea is also known as carbamide. You might have better luck searching for that 🙂
Hi Marie, can you explain me what is the meaning of soaping?
You said you changed olivem 1000 for polax wax. But i didnt understand why!
“Soaping” is when you rub a lotion into your skin and it becomes quite white and streaky for a while. It’ll absorb eventually, but it can vary in strength so sometimes it feels like your lotion is more of a shaving cream than a lotion, which isn’t pleasant!
Hi Marie, can I use BTMS-50 as emulsifier in this recipe ? Thank you <3
Three tries now and each batch is the consistency of light cream. Definitely not thick and rich. Any suggestions? More colloidal oatmeal? Add hard butters? I purchased Polawax specifically for this recipe and have not used it elsewhere. Any ideas are appreciated!
Same thing here! I made it tonight and it’s ultra thin! and may have even separated a bit. I’ve never experienced this with any other lotions that I’ve made. I used emulsifying, purchased form lotioncrafter and although ur recipe calls for less than I usually use, I followed it exclactly. What’s the trick to making it thick??
Did you use an immersion blender as you made the lotion, or was it something less powerful like a milk frother?
Because it was a small batch and my immersion blender is a large one, I used my mini mixer. I mixed for a while, perhaps you have to mix and set aside for a hit and then mix some more?
What about adding beeswax if I wanted to make this into more of a balm? Can you recommend and amount?
I suspect this is because of the mixer, but I think it will self-resolve in a couple days. I’ve found that when using Polawax or E-Wax NF that not using a powerful high-shear mixer means the lotion can take several days to reach full viscosity.
I don’t recommend adding beeswax—I have found adding wax to lotion makes for tacky end products that are quite unpleasant. You are better off to thicken lotions with things like cetyl alcohol, as I’ve done here 🙂
How strange indeed! One possible angle would be if your emulsifying wax was electrolyte sensitive, but since we are using the same one that is unlikely to be the case. Have you made any other substitutions?
For a thicker/richer cream you’d want to increase the cetyl alcohol, and perhaps look at introducing some stearic acid. You might try 3% cetyl alcohol and 2% stearic acid, removing the additional % from one of the liquid oils 🙂
Same thing over here! Light cream consistency. Does the Cetyl Alcohol take a while to set up? I noticed in your video that you let it sit for a while and then mixed… I was really looking forward to a recipe with urea but this came out much too light, and almost looks like it separated a bit
The separated part makes me think the mini-mixer use is probably the culprit here, as discussed in my other reply to you 🙂
I have read everyone of your post, the other links and watched your videos. I must say am loving it.
I would love to make the Rose Aloe cream for my family, 2 questions;
1) Would you recommend using it for toddlers?
2) would like to make a bigger batch for myself and hubby but a bit concerned about the urea and it’s ph shifts. What would you suggest?
Thanks! For toddlers, I would leave it unscented. Regarding batch size—it’s not so much the batch size as the speed of use, which is influenced by batch size to some degree, of course 🙂 If you have two people using it regularly you could probably double the batch without troubles!
Forgot to add this question, my husband has got really dry skin and I know this lotion will be great for him, it’s spring now in Alabama and get really hot here in summer.
How can I make this cream work for summer use? If not can you recommend a lotion as moisturizing as this for summer use.
There’s really no reason you couldn’t use this in the summer, honestly. If you find it to be thicker than you’d prefer in hot weather I would probably swap the cetyl alcohol for more liquid oil. This lotion is also lovely 🙂
I was wondering if you could recommend a reliable ph meter. I have never used one before and looking on line at all the ads and reviews, my head is spinning. Would really appreciate any advice.
Hey Debbie! I have this one from Apera and so far it has served me well over the last 18 months or so 🙂 I believe Ariane from La Fille de la Mer has this one, also from Apera. So, from my limited experience with digital pH meters I’d recommend Apera! You’re right, there are a ton of them available, it’s downright overwhelming. Happy making!
Hooray this recipe is trending g on Google and came up on my google assistant! Congratulations the news of your awesomeness is spreading!
YAY! Thank you 😀
Thank you for another great recipe can kids use this cream? (3 yr and 18 months)
I believe so, though you will need to use a different preservative as Liquid Germall™ Plus (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate) is not approved for use in people 3 and under 🙂 Happy making!
I made this cream last night as well as the Sugar Plum Facial Lotion. Thank you so much for creating these recipes that are wholesome and moisturizing for the face.
One question: The cream is tacky but has a comparable amount of glycerine as the lotion. Would you let me know what ingredient in the cream causes said tackiness?
Hey Liz! I would suspect it is not so much a single ingredient this as a “multiple parts of the formula coming together” sort of thing, as there’s nothing in this formula that should be outright sticky. I’d hazard a guess that the difference in oil phase sizes may be contributing, and the addition of the dimethicone and Penstia powder in the Sugar Plum Lotion will also help improve slip and reduce and tackiness 🙂
Thank you, Marie! I’ll fiddle with the ingredients next time.
Hi Marie. I’m a bit unsure which form of sodium lactate should be used in the formulations where it appears…for example, can I use 4grams of sodium lactate powder or or ONLY 4grams of 60% sodium lactate solution? Is it possible/ effective to make up the solution as called for (and what about preserving it?). Just not sure whether to purchase powder or liquid and want to buy bulk because I’d like to also substitute it for urea portions. Whew. Thanks for all that you do!
I’m using a 60% solution, so if I called for 4% sodium lactate at a 60% solution and you have 100% concentrated powder, you’d want to use 2.4% sodium lactate powder (2.4% is 60% of 4%) and 1.6% water 🙂 I wouldn’t be confident in an unpreserved homemade solution, so I’d probably just adjust formulas to use 60% of the powder and make up the difference with more distilled water. I’ve only used the liquid, but I like it so far 🙂
Thanks, will go with the liquid.
No worries, and happy making!
I’ve made this twice now and realized I hadn’t commented. I love this body cream! I pretty much use a body lotion or cream on a regular basis. That paired with my handmade soap leaves my skin feeling pretty soft. But this lotion has made a noticeable difference. My skin feels so good. I’m thinking its probably the urea, but that being said, I’ve never used jojoba or squalane in a body lotion before. Whatever it is, this is definitely a winning combination.
Thanks for another winner, Marie!
YAY! Thank you so much for sharing your experience and DIYing with me 🙂 Your comment has made my day!
Hi! When can you use a stand mixer for thick creams like this and in larger quantities please?
I wouldn’t recommend a stand mixer as they’re usually designed to whip air into things, and that’s not what we want to do. That said, I do absolutely no bulk manufacturing, so that’s just a hypothesis. I know professional manufacturers use professional homogenizers that look super cool and run upwards of $1k.
Years ago, my dermatologist recommended I use a body cream with at least 10% Urea, but I haven’t been able to find it for years. I notice this recipe is 5% Urea. Could I simply increase the amount of urea or do I need to change other ingredients as well? Thanks.
You’d need to decrease another ingredient by 5% to make room for it—that’d be the water in this formulation 🙂
Made this cream this afternoon (with a milk frother since I made a small batch). Feels gorgeous. Like a commercial body butter (style body shop) but fresher. I do have some soaping but that is not such a problem.
Hooray! I’m so thrilled to hear it 🙂 Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making!
My understanding of the buffering is that you need to use citric acid and sodium citrate or lactic acid and sodium lactate. It has something to do with the acid and the salt. I haven’t done a tone of research at this point but I thought one had to buffer the solution before adding the urea to stop the pH drift. I’ll see if I can find the article I was reading and share. I’m really looking forward to giving this cream a try. The chillier days have started and I appreciate having something to rub into my after-summer skin.
Yes, that’s roughly where my understanding is as well—I just don’t have both halves of the buffering pair. I figured I’d try it without and see what happened, and it seemed to do fairly well without it 🙂 I definitely want to work with a buffer at some point, though!
If you were going to pair lactic acid and sodium lactate, would you do it as a 1:1 split? E.g., 2g lactic acid + 2g sodium lactate?
I just made this and added a touch of rose wax to the heated oil phase, and it is absolutely divine, thick, creamy, and highly moisturising perfect for a British winter! Im loving urea and want to add it to everything. I was worried about the urea crystals dissolving in the thick cream but it worked wonders. I used Ecomulse as my emulsifier and it worked fine, but my cream has a light yellow colour to it, could you please remind me which emulsifier gives brilliant white creams? is it BTMS-50?
Hey Muzna! I’m so thrilled you’re loving this cream 🙂 I doubt it’s the emulsifying wax that is giving you a yellow cream, it’s much more likely to be one of the other ingredients. I know some rose waxes can be quite deeply coloured, so perhaps that is it?
Am wondering how good a shaving cream this would be. If rubbed in on a well wet skin, how long before the effects of the moisturizing action (via hyaluronic acid in Aloe) show up as plump, follicle-separated skin and water engorged hair? And when that happens, would the squalane and jojoba have made the skin sufficiently slick for shaving? If it is close enough to be a shaving cream, can it be improved upon to be a really fantastic transparent (perhaps non-foaming) shaving-aid product (perhaps by increasing the amount of plumpness of skin and engorgement in hair, increasing the thickness of the slick layer, and increasing the speed at which those effects happen)? It is OK if the need for rubbing-in or massaging-in the product continue to remain.
I think the best way for you to answer these questions is to try it for yourself 🙂 Happy making!
I infused this with your lavender aloe lotion with fantasic results. I love your urea formulations. It is so nice ingredient for my feet. Thanks so much for sharing. I need to try new ingredients more often. ❤️
My very grumpy, itchy, DRY, dermatitisy hands flared up terribly after all the hand washing/sanitising we all started doing a couple years ago. I had used a prescription steroid cream a few days to clear it up but they aren’t the best used long term and it isn’t as effective now anyway. The skin is quite temperamental and if I don’t baby it it can get painful and so so achingly itchy. It surprised me how many normal daily tasks would become painful to do, as any friction/moisture/soaps/cleaning chemicals etc agggravated it.
I had tried every other cream out there and only a couple barely helped at all.
So I made this lovely cream and actually used 10% urea (after reading the Simple Skingcare Science post you referred to) and OH MY GOODNESS!!! within days my hands had calmed down so much!!! I have been using it now for a few weeks and what a difference! My hands still get irritated when I overdo the gardening/cleaning or whatever, and the steroid cream for a few days stops it all escalating. But with daily use, this Rose Aloe cream keeps my hands much happier. I might just have some happy tears going on while writing this, revelling in the utter relief I now have. Thank you so so so much for this recipe. I can’t tell you how grateful I am to have found it. I’ll be making it for friends/family too
Interesting to note – I had used it a couple times and it was lovely and velvety and slippy but I forgot I was going to use 10% urea, so I (naughtily I know) added it later and mixed in very well (it did take quite a bit of mixing in). And I found the extra urea made the cream very noticeably even more slippy
Pat, I am so thrilled to hear that urea is saving your hands! What a relief that must be ❤️ And isn’t Simple Skingcare Science just WONDERFUL!? Gosh, I’ve learned so much from that website.
Thank you so much for sharing and for being a patron ❤️