This Second Skin Cream Foundation was borne of some very early morning I-can’t-sleep-any-more YouTube makeup tutorial watching. Being the sucker I am for all things Kate Winslet I clicked on a thumbnail for a tutorial titled “Trying to do my makeup like the movies… so you can’t see it” from RawBeautyKristi (the thumbnail featured a shot of Kate in The Holiday). I then proceeded to watch, mesmerized, at 5:30 am, as Kristi expertly transformed her face into seemingly makeup-free perfection. The product in the video that really caught my attention was the foundation she used—a cream product from RCMA. As Kristi worked her expertise application magic, exclaiming over how the product was ultra skin-like, I knew I needed to know more. To the Google!
Want to watch this project instead of reading it?
My sleep-addled brain was halfway to ordering one of their five-shade mini palettes out of the USA before I took a look at the ingredients and boooooooyah—they were really simple! The base is a simple combination of isopropyl myristate (IPM) and castor oil that’s thickened with a combination of carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and ozokerite, plus a preservative (Propylparaben), antioxidant (BHT), and a pigment-dispersing/spreading agent (Sorbitan Sesquioleate). After that came the “may contain” list of all the pigments used across the product line—powder foundation in every colour imaginable, basically.
I quickly drafted up a formula and was measuring and melting up a storm in my studio well before 7 am. Thanks to my previous experiments with waxes I was able to hit on a good balance of liquid to thickener to mineral makeup quite quickly. I used some of my custom-blended mineral makeup from my book, Make it Up: The Essential Guide to DIY Makeup and Skin Care, to instantly and easily create a bang-on colour match.
My ingredient list is fairly similar to the original. I kept the isopropyl myristate (IPM) and castor oil, but I did change the waxes a bit. I dropped the carnauba wax in favour of more candelilla wax as I find them to be very similar, and I chose ceresine wax instead of ozokerite wax as I find ozokerite to be quite irksome to melt. I also dropped the preservative as there’s no water in the formulation, and used vitamin E for an antioxidant instead of BHT. For a bit of additional fun, I also included some Silica Dimethyl Silylate (SDS)—a product I purchased ages ago from TKB Trading and have had a ton of fun playing with! I really recommend giving the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia entry on it a read, but the general gist of it is that it thickens oils, helps reduce pigment settling in cosmetics (into fine lines and whatnot), and reduces the oily feeling in things. It has a few characteristics in common with silica microspheres, but if you love making colour cosmetics I would highly recommend having both!
Making this is very simple—we’ll gently melt everything together (stirring in the vitamin E once it’s off the heat), stir to combine thoroughly and pour it into a wee jar to set up. The 5g batch I made months ago is still going strong, with barely a dent in it, so you’re going to want a very precise scale here (0.01g precision) so you don’t make a two year supply of foundation in one fell swoop.
When it comes to application I’d recommend gently working it into the skin with your fingertips. I also experimented with brushes and sponges, but I find the finger application gets the most skin-like look in the end, really helping the product melt into the skin. I hope you enjoy this Second Skin Cream Foundation as much as I do!
Want to see this foundation in action?
Second Skin Cream Foundation
Heated phase
2.50g | 50% mineral makeup (from the blog or the book)
1.15g | 23% isopropyl myristate (IPM)
0.95g | 18.9% castor oil (USA / Canada)
0.20g | 4% carnauba wax
0.15g | 3% cereseine wax
0.05g | 1% Silica Dimethyl Silylate (SDS)Cool down phase
0.01g | 0.1% Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)Prepare a water bath by heating about ~0.7–1cm of water until it’s just steaming in a wide, flat-bottomed sauté pan.
Weigh the heated phase ingredients into a small plastic mixing cup (USA / Canada). You could also use a small glass bowl or beaker, but I find I like the little disposable cup—the small scale is great for a small batch, the shape and flexibility are great for smashing everything around with a small metal spatula, and I can squeeze the edges when pouring to create a bit of a spout.
Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath to melt everything through. You’ll want to stir as it melts (maybe three or four times—it doesn’t need to be constant) to make sure everything has melted and break up any clumps.
Once the mixture has melted through you’re ready to move onto the next step. Make sure you have your container ready (I recommend a little 5mL jar or a makeup pan) and your scale turned on. Remove the melted makeup from the water bath, quickly weigh in the vitamin E, stir to combine, and pour it into the jar. I find this sets up pretty quickly so only the first ~70% of the pour will be nice and smooth, and after that, you’re scraping out soft-solid blobs and dropping this in on top. If you’re not fussed about the appearance of the surface (which’ll be pretty well mussed up once you’ve used it a few times) you can leave it as-is, but if you want a smoother top you can blast it with a hot hairdryer to re-melt the surface and rap it sharply on your counter to even out the surface (I recommend wearing hot mitts if you’re holding the wee jar as I did [it was so light the hairdryer blew it away if I didn’t hold it, ha]).
To use, work tiny amounts of the foundation into your skin with your fingertips, layering it up to build coverage as needed (brushes & sponges also work, but I like finger application best for this foundation). Enjoy!
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this cream foundation is 100% oil based, it does not require a broad-spectrum preservative (broad spectrum preservatives ward off microbial growth, and microbes require water to live—no water, no microbes!). Kept reasonably cool and dry, it should last at least a year before any of the oils go rancid. If you notice it starts to smell like old nuts or crayons, that’s a sign that the oils have begun to oxidize; chuck it out and make a fresh batch if that happens.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 5g—and that’s a lot of product!
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this recipe, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there! If I have not given a specific substitution suggestion in this list please look up the ingredient in the encyclopedia before asking.
- You could probably try a store-bought mineral makeup if that’s all you have, though that will make this DIY significantly more expensive.
- You could try different liquid oils instead of the isopropyl myristate (IPM) & castor oil, but that will fundamentally change the feel of the foundation
- Please refer to the resources linked in the pre-amble if you want to change up the waxes
- For the Silica Dimethyl Silylate:
- You could try silica microspheres instead
- You could try sericite mica or starch (corn starch, arrowroot starch, etc.) instead
- You could replace it with more castor oil
- If you have some OptiBlur Elastomer this could be a good place to incorporate some—I’d start with 10% (removing 5% from both the isopropyl myristate [IPM] and castor oil). Add the OptiBlur during cool down.
Yaaaaaay, I’m the first comment! If I wanted to transform this into a stick, how would you recommend doing that?
Generally speaking, you’d need more wax + less liquid, but you’d also need to experiment and make sure more wax doesn’t make it too draggy. Happy making!
This foundation is the best! I have just made a mineral make up base (from Make it up) a couple of shades too dark and made this up with it. It give me a lovely subtle contour look which I love. I have tried with carnauba wax and candelilla and have to say prefer the carnauba. Thanks Marie!❤️
I am so thrilled to hear it! ❤️ And thank you so much for sharing your candelilla vs. carnauba experiments as well 😀 Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Here in uk am unable to find cereseine wax. Ms Google tells me this are used as subs for beeswax (I don’t see an entry in your encyclopaedia). Would beeswax impact on the end product?
I also plan to sub candelilla wax for carnauba wax as this is what I have in stock (you suggest this substitution in your recipe)
SDS is unavailable here in uk (and too costly to import) so intend to try sericite mica as suggested.
Your observations on the overall effect of these adjustments would be very much appreciated.
Kind regards
(Enjoying your posts very much…very engaging and instructive)
Hey Ros! I’d recommend reading through the comments here to see what other people have tried—I believe most of the swaps you’ve suggested have been tried by other Bees 🙂 Happy making!
Hi Marie, thanks so much. I have made a batch and, although I have not quite achieved the correct shade, thrilled with the results, nevertheless. Great website…it’s really appreciated.
Hi Ros.
I’m in the UK too. I’m going to try out your substitution suggestions and see how I get on. Thank you for sharing x
Just made it quickly, I used beeswax instead of ceresine and sericite mica in place of Silica Dimethyl Silylate. Thank you for sharing this recipe!
Already made it???? Boy am I the slowest one around here lol. I would still have to order some ingredients.
In my defense I had almost all ingredients laying around and needed a new foundation
How did you like the end product?
I’m very pleased with the result. It leaves my skin velvety with a dry touch.
Cool! I really like wax based foundations so I could try something similar to yours! I’ve actually used Marie’s concealer (from the book) as foundation when I don’t want much coverage + dewy look- I like how hard it is to over apply it + end result is very light and matte (for me, atleast). 🙂 Thanks Marie, again, for your hard work.
Thank you so much! 😀
That foundation looks amazing!
I bought your book and I am going to give your concealer recipe a go today.
What is the particle size of the zinc oxide that you use? I’m thinking the one I have on hand might not be fine enough. TIA!
I use non-nano ZO & TD 🙂 Both look quite chunky in the bag/tub, but work beautifully once ground up. Thanks for buying my book and happy making!
Wow, you’re speedy! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
So this is Just amazing! I am a Marie shade mineral foundation gal. If I made the base in a darker shade than I would normally wear do you think it would work as a contour shade? For the cereseine wax I used beeswax as well – just can’t find it anywhere! Seriously I think I need a trip to the US just to get hold of some of these ingredients!
I’m so thrilled you are loving it! And yes to the contour shades—though I suspect you don’t need to make a full mineral foundation, you could probably look at trying one of the powdered bronzers from my book as well 🙂 I agree about the trip to the US for ingredients—I’ve done that many times! I’ll order in advance and have it shipped to my hotel so I can fly home with it 😀 Sadly it doesn’t look like I’ll be doing that any time soon 🙁
Marie I know you have heard this a million times but again thank you for your blog and even though I don’t make alot of make up stuff I make bath products I really love your book but still know you could do well with a bath products book too. I will buy it.
Yes, I second the thanks. Love me some Marie here in New York!!! There are sooooooooooo many DIY bloggers out there but I always come back to her for one reason – TRUST. I trust what she says, what she does and who she is. Love you girl!!
Denise
This was so simple to make and the finish is just fantastic! It really does look so natural. I subbed beeswax for the ceresine wax and used silica microspheres instead of the silica. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I’m so thrilled to hear it, and thank you so much for sharing your substitutions as well!
❤️ You’ve put the biggest grin on my face! Thank you so much 🙂
Thank you so much, Mamabaer ❤️ I really appreciate your kind words and your support!
How did it turn out Emelia? These are the ingredients I have but I have had no success making foundation in the past as the mineral powders don’t dissolve or disperse.
Mineral makeup won’t dissolve as the ingredients are insoluble, but dispersion shouldn’t be an issue. I wonder… is your titanium dioxide the oil-dispersible or water-dispersible version?
Hi Marie!
I’ve been using mineral makeup for 16 years and its been a fine romance. But I find as I age, so does my skin and these pesky little “spots” are appearing that are as irritating to me as a gray hair. Be gone!
I think I’m ready for this creation of yours. I don’t need to be flawless, not with my casual life, but I need to feel like I put my best face forward and this creation may do just that.
Tomorrow, I’m back in the kitchen, concocting this beauty secret. Thank you!
And I agree with the ladies above. You have been the ONLY person I DIY with. I’ve always trusted you and your recipes never let me down.
You’ve put the biggest happy smile on my face, Cristie ❤️ I look forward to hearing how this turns out for you! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Hi Maria, This looks, oh so fabulous. But IPM makes me break out like crazy. I’m trying to think of something equally light feeling as IPM. Do you think Isododecane or C13-15 Alkane or even Squalane could be good subs? Look forward to your answer and thank you in advance!
I bet Neossance® Hemisqualane would be great, as would C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Isododecane would probably be a bit too drying, but I bet a blend of squalane and cyclomethicone would be lovely! Happy making 🙂
Hi, Isn’t IPM highly comodogenic. Will that cause acne to oily skin people?
Please give this a read 🙂 I’ve been testing this for months now and haven’t had any issues. You could also google reviews of the product that inspired this one to see if you find mentions of it causing problems. Happy making!
Hi, Marie!
I LOVE your skincare/cosmetic recipes, your videos, your blog, your book, your enthusiasm for all things DIY! Do you know that my copy of your book falls open to all my “go-to” recipes—I love the Creamy Balm Cleanser and the Creamy Clay Cleanser. Simple, pure, and very customizable.
My question: this foundation sounds wonderful…would it be suitable for mature, dry skin? (I am 57.) I like my foundation to be light in texture with some coverage, natural looking, and hydrating.
Thank you, Marie!
Carolyn
I made so many substitutions and it still came out awesome. I subbed beeswax and rosewax for the two waxes, used optiblur, CSmax sericite for the SDS. The only issue is that I can’t get the color right on my homemade mineral foundation so obviously that carries over. No matter how many alterations, pinches of this or that I adjust it with, I still look like I have plaster on my face. :o( but this formulation is dynamite. Fast and easy. As always, thanks Marie!
Long-time lurker, first-time post! I just received your book as a present and made this foundation, which is truly amazing (turned out a little light, but that’s because I need to tweak the mineral makeup colour). The skin feel and wear is incredible! (This recipe makes a super tiny amount, though.)
My question is about magnesium myristate. It’s such a common ingredient in your book but it’s impossible to get in Australia. What would be the best substitution for this ingredient?
Never mind, I have finally found somewhere in Australia that sells magnesium myristate! (After ordering from the US more than a month ago and still waiting for my $58 order to arrive, I gave up.) For anyone in Australia, there’s a site called Wholesale Mineral Makeup that sells it: https://wholesalemineralmakeup.com.au/products/mineral-makeup-ingredients.
Hooray! Thank you so much for sharing ❤️
Oh, and I also realised that My Mica Obsession sells it too (cheaper than the above link) – but you can’t find it by searching the site! I swear it wasn’t there last time I looked. But heads up for Aussie folks. Buying ingredients here is so annoying, specially when you live in a regional town.
Loving the recipes tho! I specially love that everything is so well researched. I’m a scientist and I get very tired of the hippy dippy blogs.
Just to note, I’ve been using this makeup for several weeks now – I do have skin that breaks out easily, but it has been AMAZING for my skin – so for those of you worried about the IPM, don’t stress.
I thought at first the amount was super tiny, but you genuinely need so little, even a double recipe is a lot.
YAY! Thank you so much for sharing another source ❤️ And I’m stoked to hear your skin is still loving this makeup! I still haven’t made a dent in mine, even though I wear it pretty frequently—one’s definitely of “a lot” sure changes when you start making makeup!
I’m so thrilled that you are loving this foundation, and that you managed to find some Magnesium Myristate in Aus—I’m sure many fellow Aussies will appreciate the resources you’ve shared! ❤️
Thanks for this post Marie. Can’t wait to try this out! Quick question about the ingredients list. In the post for this project, you say “I dropped the carnauba wax in favour of more candelilla wax as I find them to be very similar,” but in the list of ingredients at the end of the post it lists carnauba wax, not candelilla wax. Maybe I’m misreading it. Perhaps it’s not an issue since they are similar.
Hey Marie! I was just reading your book and on page 93 it says, “some would pill on the face into eraser-shaving like clods that were none too flattering”. That is EXACTLY what happened to me this morning. I used it on a freshly cleaned face because I didn’t want anything put underneath it to cause this or interfere but it happened anyway. Why would this happen? This particular foundation was a water based emulsion made water and oils and using polawax as the emulsifier. I know it’s hard for you to say without knowing the entire formula but generally, why would something pill?
Mine is pilling too. 🙁 I wonder what I am doing wrong
Hi Marie!
I am on a quest to recreate a texturizing (yet hydrating) hair powder that I use as a barber. It calls for glycerin, silica, water, vp/va copolymer, and preservative.
I tried diatomaceous earth instead of silica but I don’t think it’s lightweight enough. Should I use Silica Dimethyl Silylate instead for a powdery, creamy texture? I have sepimax Zen but am not sure if I can use for the copolymer. Can you please help me with this formulation? 🙂 🙂
Danielle
Afternoon. I’ve read all the comments and made suitable substitutions. This turned out brilliantly and wears really well on my combination skin.
Due to the success I decided to experiment. I was feeling brave.
So I made the powdered bronzer from your book. Added extra oxides to darken the colour and then made a batch of the second skin foundation with the bronzer mix. This time though I popped it into a lip balm tube because everything in a stick form is extra handy. I now have an easy to blend contouring stick . It’s super!
My eleven year daughter has since stolen it . Story of my life that.
Thank you Marie xx
What are your thoughts on substituting TKB Trading’s dimethicone titanium dioxide for regular TiO2 in the mineral makeup recipe from your book? I have recently seen a massive improvement in my skin’s health, due entirely to your wise advice about dimethicone, how my dry, flaking, sensitive skin desperately needs water, etc!
Definitely give it a try! I suspect it will work well 🙂 And I’m so glad to hear your skin is doing better ❤️ That is SUCH a good feeling!
I can’t seem to find cereseine wax or Silica Dimethyl Silylate in Canada. What do you suggest?
Substitutions are covered in the substitutions list, please read it
OMG Marie, I don’t think you could have done any better because this stuff is wonderfull. Mine is still thickening and it’s exactly my kind of foundation. Yes, I used beeswax for ceresine wax, a blend of MCT-oil and squalane (IPM) and silica microspheres. Warm thank you!
Hooray! I am so thrilled you’re enjoying it—your IG story looks fantastic!
Hi Marie – I have a real newbie question. In your book there is the mineral makeup base and the color blends. Then making this cream foundation do I mix the base and color blend then liquid or just add the color blend and skip the base?
Hey Marie,
I’m absolutely thrilled to find you! I want to try making my own makeup as I’m so tired of spending $65 on foundation that only lasts me for a few weeks! I’m super nervous about making my own, but you’ve made it look actually do-able. I’m really pumped to get into it!! I just have a question, what sort of scales do you use? I’ve never seen one like your little one, and I certainly don’t have one that weighs such tiny amounts. Could you please let me know? Thanks so much!!!
Hey Esther! Welcome to the wonderful world of DIY makeup 🙂 Please refer to the Equipment section of my encyclopedia for more information on the different scales I have ❤️ Happy making!
I made some of this foundation, using the base from your book, Make It Up (love the book!) and I have to tell you it is the absolute best foundation I have ever used! I absolutely love it!!! It is so creamy and velvety and it dries to a nice, soft finish. Thank you so much for the time and energy you put into making us women look better! Lol!
I’ve tried many recipes out of your book and love absolutely all of them! But I also have to give a special shout out to you for the long wearing shimmer cream eyeshadow on the humble bee & me website That stuff is the bomb Diggity! Wowzer
Hey Marie, I was wondering if you can substitute Beeswax in this recipe in place of the Carnauba wax?
I have extreme health issues that cropped as I begin to age. I am looking to make GLUTEN FREE foundation and lipsticks. I’m also tired of paying $$$$. How do I find out if the ingredients are gluten free. Are any of the ingredient suppliers on your list gluten free?
I have extreme health issues that cropped as I begin to age. This looks great but I am anxious. I am looking to make GLUTEN FREE foundation and lipsticks. I’m also tired of paying $$$$. How do I find out if the ingredients are gluten free. Are any of the ingredient suppliers on your list gluten free?