Our Soothing series continues with this lovely Soothing Cleansing Balm. Up until now all of our soothing projects have included a water phase, and many of our awesome soothing ingredients (cucumber distillate, chamomile hydrosol, urea, etc.) live in that phase. This project is 100% anhydrous—this means many of the ingredients we’ve used before are off the table, but several news ones are now on the table!
Want to watch this project instead of read it?
The bulk of this cleansing balm is calendula infused olive oil and a bit of castor oil. Calendula is a wonderful soothing, anti-inflammatory botanical, and infusing it in oil is a simple and inexpensive way to harness some of its powers. That is thickened with a blend of stearic acid and cetyl alcohol for a rich, buttery texture that doesn’t have any of the weight or waxiness that thickening with oil brings to a formulation.
Our cleansing comes from a combination of Polawax and Polysorbate 80. I find I like a blend of a solid and a liquid emulsifier/solubilizer in cleansing balms, though you could adjust the recipe to use all of one or the other if you prefer. Both Polawax and Polysorbate 80 contain double-ended molecules: one end that loves oil, and another that loves water. That water-loving end means that when you go to rinse the cleansing balm off your skin it’ll come right off, without any residual oiliness or greasiness. I have made cleansing oil/balm products that don’t contain any emulsifiers/solubilizers and I am really not a fan of the use experience—I usually just feel like I have to wash my face again to get the oil off.
For some additional cleansing I’ve included a wee bit of kaolin clay, which also makes things a bit creamier. Some colloidal oatmeal brings some more soothing goodness, and together they offer a bit of gentle physical exfoliation if you apply the balm dry.
In our cool down phase you’ll find a titch of anti-inflammatory, soothing, anti-irritation bisabolol and some classically calming lavender essential oil. I’ve kept this series essential oil free up until now, but for a wash-off product (and at 0.5%) I thought we could enjoy the benefits of lavender without much potential for irritation.
The finished balm is soft and creamy. I find the inclusion of the colloidal oatmeal and kaolin clay makes the cleansing balm all kinds of creamy and rich when combined with water, which is wonderfully indulgent. After cleansing you’ll be left with soft, smooth, clean skin. Swoon.
Want to watch this project instead of read it?
Soothing Cleansing Balm
Heated phase
3g | 6% Polawax (USA / Canada)
2.5g | 5% Polysorbate 80 (USA / Canada)
24.875g | 49.75% calendula infused olive oil (pomace) (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3% colloidal oatmeal (USA / Canada)
5g | 10% castor oil (USA / Canada)
8g | 16% stearic acid (USA / Canada / UK)
3g | 6% cetyl alcohol (USA / Canada)
1.5g | 3% white kaolin clay (USA / Canada)Cool down phase
0.125g | 0.25% bisabolol (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.50% Vitamin E MT-50 (USA / Canada)
0.25g | 0.50% lavender essential oilTo prepare the calendula infusion: Weigh 5% dried calendula, 0.5% vitamin E, and 94.5% olive oil into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Prepare a water bath by heating about 3cm/1″ of water until warm, but definitely not simmering (we’re aiming for hot-tub type temperatures). Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath for two hours, stirring occasionally. After the infusion is complete, strain the mixture, reserving the infused oil and composting the spent plant matter. To learn more, click here.
Weigh the heated phase ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Place the measuring cup in your prepared water bath to melt everything through.
While the heated phase melts, prepare an ice bath. Take a bowl that is large enough to accommodate the container the heated phase is melting in, and fill it about halfway with ice cubes and cold water.
After about 20–30 minutes everything should be completely melted through. Remove the water bath from the heat, remove the measuring cup from the water bath, and dry it off with a dish towel. Stir with a flexible silicone spatula to incorporate.
Place the container holding the melted balm in the ice bath and stir frequently until it gains a bit of viscosity. Remove it from the ice bath and weigh in the cool down phase, stirring to combine. Put the cleansing balm back into the ice bath, stirring until you reach a thin trace. Transfer it to your jar and leave the balm to set up.
Once the balm has set you’re all done!
To use, you’ve got two options. Option one is to massage a small scoop into your skin and wipe off with a damp cloth—because you’re applying the colloidal oatmeal dry this option includes a bit of physical exfoliation, which can be nice. Option to is to take a scoop in your palm, work it up with a bit of water, and then massage that creamy palmful of goodness into your skin before wiping off with a damp cloth. This option is less exfoliating and super creamy and rich from the get-go. Either work beautifully, and I’ve been finding I’ll choose one or the other at the time of use, depending on what I feel like.
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this cleansing balm does not contain any water, it does not require a broad-spectrum preservative (broad spectrum preservatives ward off microbial growth, and microbes require water to live—no water, no microbes!). Be sure to keep it dry to ensure it lasts as long as possible—don’t let any water get into the container and it should easily last a year (use a dry finger or popsicle stick to dip into the container). If you plan on giving this cleansing balm away or taking it into the shower/bath with you, please include 0.5% liquid germall plus (USA / Canada). Though this preservative is water soluble, this cleansing balm contains emulsifiers so it will emulsify, and because it is water soluble it’ll be in the right phase if the balm gets contaminated with water.
Substitutions
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 50g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this recipe, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there!
- Emulsifying Wax NF (USA / Canada / AU) will work in place of Polawax. Emusilmulse/Ritamulse and Olivem1000 should also work; I’d avoid BTMS-50 simply because it is more expensive than the other options.
- You can try Cromollient SCE, water soluble shea butter, or Olivem300 (USA / Canada) instead of the Polysorbate 80
- You can substitute another lightweight oil like sweet almond, grapeseed, or sunflower seed for the olive oil oil and/or castor oil. I would recommend infusing the new oil with calendula.
- If you don’t have stearic acid and cetyl alcohol you can try cetearyl alcohol instead; I’d probably start with ~20% total, but you’ll need to refine the precise amount yourself
- You could use a different smooth clay in place of kaolin or colloidal oatmeal, but keep in mind that anything with a colour (like French green clay) will impact the colour of the end product.
- A different calming essential oil, like chamomile, will work in place of lavender essential oil.
Hi Marie!
I always love to see what you’ve got cooking up in your lab! So creative you are!
I have more of a comment than a question- when I look on line for Polawax I see so many small sellers that sell emulsifying wax NF and also call it Polawax. If I’m correct, they are not the same thing. Have you or anyone else run into that before? Just wondering… also another reason not to buy ingredients from eBay!
I’d love to hear from anyone so I can confirm that I’m not crazy!
Thanks and have a glorious day!
Meika ( said mica)
Hey! Windy shared a great answer for your question a bit further down so I won’t repeat what she’s said—thanks, Windy!
I used Polawax in many recipes and it turned well. I have no problem so far.
Hi Marie, I really love this recipe. Easier to bring around. i don’t add colloidal oat into this recipe. My balm ia a little bit soft. Which ingredient should I increase to make it slightly harder? Btw i bought your Make it Up book! Thanks Marie.
Hey Katheline, be sure to look at the substitutions that Marie has in the bottom of the formula. There she lists what to swap ingredients for. This is a cleansing balm so you want to make sure that this is somewhat easy to dip your fingers into so making it too thick would not be the best idea. One way to make it thicker is to reduce the liquid oils and/or increase the thickening agents in the formula.
Happy making!
Barb
Sounds lovely! Is oat flour the same as colloidal oatmeal? The one I have is from Bob’s Red Mill and has the bran and all components ground into a fine flour.
Hi Marie i love your work and recipes and would love to try this as I have rather sensitive skin so your soothing series has really interested me. However I have a slight query. The emulating wax I currently have is Cetearyl alcohol peg 20 stearate. Will this work for this recipe or should I look into getting the exact ingredients used? Thanks
That should work, yes 🙂 Happy making!
love your work
Thank you so much!
I recommend giving this blog post from LisaLise a read—she’s really dug into it!
The company Making Cosmetics doesn’t ship Bisabolol to Canada. Do you know where we can find it? I’m checking other suppliers but so far no luck.
Les Ames Fluers! Windy linked it further down 🙂
I get a few things from Lotion Crafter and when I searched for Bisabolol it says it can’t be shipped internationally as it is now considered a hazardous material and is an environmental hazard. Is there perhaps something else oil soluable that can be used as a replacement? It also sounds like there are 2 bisabolos, one synthetic and one not.
Les Ames Fleur sells bisabolol. They’re Canadian and only ship within Canada. https://www.lesamesfleurs.com/products/bisabolol
Meika, the INCI for Polawax is emulsifying wax NF but they’re not exactly the same thing. Unfortunately Polawax is a trade secret so no one really knows what’s in Polawax!
Looks great, Marie! Can’t wait to try this one!
Thanks so much, Windy!
Check out the encyclopedia page for bisabolol 🙂
Hi Marie, this looks lovely! What size/volume container did you use to store it’s?
I put a 50g batch in a 60mL/2fl oz jar 🙂
I like the sound of this, but is there anything I can substitute for the Bisbolol Marie? I’m afraid that I can’t justify £45 for an ounce of it.
It’s covered in the encyclopedia post 🙂
Thanks Marie 🙂
Hello Marie!
Would I be able to substitute panthenol b5 for the Bisabolol? I searched your site and found the Bisabolol in your encyclopedia and that chamomile essential oil or an oil soluble calendula extract can be used in place of Bisabolol. I don’t have any..would Panthenol b5 be a good fit? Ty.
Since Bisabolol is a derivative of German Chamomile which is a ragweed, I’m subbing in Blue Tansy.
An interesting choice! According to Tisserand Blue Tansy essential oil does not contain any bisabolol, while most types of blue chamomile contain at least 40% of different variations of bisabolol. I’m sure it will still be lovely, though—and a beautiful blue!
Hi Marie. Could you tell me if this works for all skin types? I know it works for dry and sensitive skin but what about oily skin?
Hey Marie, thanks for your recipes as always. I wanted to make a cleansing balm like this, but using 100% olivem1000 because that’s what I have and my husband will kill me if I buy more stuff! Haha. Where would you start % wise? The supplier recommendations are 5-7% for an emulsion, but I was thinking 15% – what do you think?
Interestingly I also read a post from Skin chakra where they experimented and concluded that olivem1000 is not a complete emulsifier. Just wondered if you’d seen that and had any thoughts?
https://skinchakra.eu/blog/archives/491-Why-Olivem-1000-is-no-self-emulsifying-ingredient.html
Thanks as always!!
Good morning Natalie!
You can use Olivem 1000 in a cleansing balm, I have a few times but I find the price way too pricy to be using all the time in a wash off product. It makes the product feel… unique. In a good way! I don’t know how else to describe it unfortunately! When it comes to a cleansing balm, you might find the emulsification system usage rate might be slightly higher than what is usually recommended. And that is because you are using it for a different purpose than a lotion. You are using it to clean and to help carry the excessive oils and dirt from your face/body down the drain. If you are planning on using Olivem 1000 in this recipe without the Polysorbate 80, I’d suggest making a 25g batch, with 11% Olivem 1000. Keep the test batches small!
As for Skin Chakra’s post, I am two fold on the topic. I’d suggest checking out this post. I’ve worked with Olivem 1000 for quite a number of years in various formulas and have successfully broken many of the rules whilst using Olivem 1000. It’s helped me come to the conclusion, that just like most things in the DIY world, most of the guidelines are just guidelines and not hard and fast rules.
Hope this helps a little!
Thanks so much for the reply Barb; I am melting my cleansing balm as we speak and will update on how it goes. Interested to see what you mean about the skin feel! I ordered olivem1000 originally as it seemed the most natural out of the options, albeit pricey. This will be the first time I’ve used an emulsifier so I haven’t tried anything else yet. Will update you and thanks again!
Hello Marie!
Would I be able to substitute panthenol b5 for the Bisabolol? I searched your site and found the Bisabolol in your encyclopedia and that chamomile essential oil or an oil soluble calendula extract can be used in place of Bisabolol. I don’t have any..would Panthenol b5 be a good fit? Ty
Could I use tallow instead of olive oil?
I don’t recommend it; give this a read to learn more 🙂
Hey Marie!
What are your thoughts on storing this in a push up tube? I’ve been using your push tube recipe for a while now and really love the convenience. But I also miss the clay that your original version had.
I suspect it would be far too soft; I recently tried a harder-than-this-formula recipe in a push up tube and it really didn’t work well at all. It made a massive mess and was just… urk. You’d want to shift the balance of the liquid oils towards more cetyl/stearic to make for a harder end product, and then that should work!
Hello Marie,
This is the best post for my questions because there are three items all at once over here.
Cetyl Alcohol is ‘known’ for its dry, powdery, silky, and velvety sensorials which are suitable for ‘oily skin’ without the shine plus the slip and glide to effectively spread and apply a product (lotion, cream).
How about Stearic Acid, does have the excellent properties of Cetyl Alcohol besides creating a harder/thicker product compared to Cetyl Alcohol?
I do not have fancy emulsifier. I have only PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. Will this successfully solubilize Cetyl Alcohol and Stearic Acid? I seriously do not want to spend extra money just for the purpose. Since I started DIY I have been collecting more and more ingredients, which most are useless! The most expensive one I bought is Sodium Hyaluronate which I later learn that I could make the same effect (if not better) with Glycerin and Propanediol. I am influenced by “new and advanced” stuff is the reason why I fell victim for all the marketing. I slowly learn to stick to old school ingredients, tried and true ones, used medically ones (Urea, Tretinoin, Sulfur for instance).
I notice Castor Oil shines. This is really bad for my already oily skin (more like the face than anywhere else on my body! Ugh!) Will Cetyl Alcohol’s prowess mitigate the shine of Castor Oil?
How does Cetyl Alcohol work on the shine? I mean, how long will Cetyl Alcohol remain dry-powdery-matte-lookin’ before my sweat/oil shines through?
Good morning Christopher!
Alas! PEG 40 is only really effective in an oil-in-water emulsions such as body washes, facial cleansers (liquid), bubble baths (liquids) and the like. As a complete emulsifier? It just won’t work, the whole stability issue. Tell me about that deep dark whole that is DIY ingredients and my pocket book. It seems like there is some new fancy ingredient that pops up daily that I just have to have. And what sucks most of all is that unless you test it out, you have no idea if it works or not for your skin! I’d strongly suggest picking up some ewax of some kind, Marie seems to be partial to Polawax, whilst I’m more partial to Emulsifying Wax NF for body and Olivem 1000 for the face.
My skin is considered to be normal (winter time) and wickedly oily come summer, with a strong tendency to break out. I do find that cleansing balms (this one is my favourite one to play with) are the most effective cleanser for my skin in keeping the shine at bay during the day. Be sure to keep your skin hydrated! I typically stay away from anything with castor oil in it for leave on products due to the shine factor.
Your next question of cetyl alcohol vs stearic acid I’ve included some links to the encyclopedia. The sad news is, that cetyl alcohol won’t keep your skin looking matte and powdery dry looking for long. Skin should have some oils on it, this helps to prevent transdermal water loss which is a huge sign of aging.
I can’t edit my post/comment?!?!?! A real bummer! Oh well, this comment of mine acts as an update if I cannot edit my previous comment. I hope your readers may benefit from my humble, informal, simple AF research experimentation.
Here is the thing, I managed to get a tiny sample of BTMS 50, which I was understood that it is 50% Behentrimonium methosulphate and 50% Cetyl Alcohol. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil miraculously emulsified/solubilized BTMS 50! With the help of heat, of course. Never mind the cationic surfactant as I did not give it water, so I presume I singled Cetyl Alcohol out as such.
1% PEG-40 HCO
0.5% BTMS 50
This mixture does not allow Cetyl Alcohol powdery and silkiness perform. The PEG-40 HCO per se is already extremely tacky, but its tackiness is way better than that of Glycerin.
Next is I added some (Yes, some. Random amount of water) as I thought it must have water for Cetyl Alcohol to give that slip/glide and then turns powdery, velvety, smooth-ery. I was God damned wrong. PEG-40 HCO still wins in this department.
I guess probably PEG-40 HCO is too much. I put it 4 times as much as Cetyl Alcohol because I thought Cetyl Alcohol is very hydrophobic. And above all, PEG-40 HCO is known to be required 4 to beyond 20 times the amount of oil that will be solubilized.
If you had tested Cetyl Alcohol with PEG-40 HCO, what is the best ratio for Cetyl Alcohol to be properly emulsified (by PEG-40 HCO) and still performs what it is famous for? If you never personally did the both of them, how about from your findings/many years of practical experience, and from others/your peers, et al?
Not really sure what you are asking, but Hydrogenated castor oil is not going to emulsify cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol is an oil based ingredient so is never mixed with water without a proper emulsifier. BTMS- 50 can most definitely be used to emulsify cetyl alcohol. The cetyl alcohol will just give it more slip and glide and more thickening power. Have you considered just working on some beginner recipes, getting to know your ingredients, and then trying some of the more complex recipes?
Hello Christopher!
Hopefully my previous reply helped you out a little bit! Since you got a wee sample of some BTMS-50, why not try giving that a chance in an emulsified product? I’m partial to this one as my oily skin adores aloe, cucumber, panthenol… well every single ingredient in that formula! Swap out the Polawax for your BTMS-50 (I made mine with Olivem 1000 though).
Greetings! I am probably being daft, but I have a question about preparing the calendula infusion. The %’s don’t add up. Such as if I were to make 100 g, the percentages of calendula, vitamin E and olive oil add up to 95%. Can you clarify? “To prepare the calendula infusion: Weigh 5% dried calendula, 0.5% vitamin E, and 89.5% olive oil into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. ” Thank you so much!
D’oh! Fixed 🙂 When I first went to make the infusion I was aiming for 10% calendula but that ended up being way too much herb and far too little oil so I dropped it to 5% and it looks like my notes didn’t fully catch up LOL.
1. I wrote PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (PEG-40 HCO) very clearly and many times.
2. How do you mean “beginner recipe”? We think we know, but we don’t really know what we know. There is a difference between listening to what others say and listening to the correct thing.
I know you are trying to help and you meant well. But you assume all wrongly. Perhaps is the way you phrase things.
My questions are directed at Marie, who I thought should be more experienced than most of us including my good self. Why should I reinvent the wheel? Likewise, why are you all here asking questions? Why not do your own tests at the expense of your own money? Why need to ask Marie before you even try? So you see, I am the same as y’all!
It takes a wise person to learn from his or her mistakes, but an even wiser person learns from others.
Anyway, Marie failed to answer me. Maybe she, too, doesn’t understand what I was ranting. Oh well. But it is okay as I already got my answers and tested and worked.
Since comments are vetted, I dont know if this even gets through. I will be talking to myself otherwise. LOL! But, oh well.
Hi Marie! I’m out of polysorbate 80 and have to wait until may to get some. Can I use polysorbate 20 instead?
Yup, that should work 🙂 I wouldn’t if poly 80 was the only emulsifier, but since we have some emulsifying wax in there as well it should do just fine 🙂
I just made this over the weekend and I LOVE the texture. Neat-o! Almost like ice cream that you leave out for 5 minutes 🙂 I usually avoid cleansing balms because many have beeswax and I don’t like the feel of that on my face. This one is very creamy, cleanses really well, and is easy to wash off. I used calendula infused in sunflower oil because that’s what I had on hand. Thanks so much Marie for one fantastic recipe!!
I am so thrilled you are loving it! I’ve been toying with other cleansing balm formulas that use fewer ingredients and I just keep coming back to this base because the texture is so dang lovely 😀 Thanks for DIYing with me and happy making
Hi Marie! This is great stuff, absolutely gorgeous! I’ve just made it and I am loving it. It removes all of my make up and it leaves my skin soft and not at all oily. And I find that I don’t need to use a surfactant cleanser after it. Thank you so much!
Good evening Stella!
That’s amazing to hear! Have you posted your final product pictures on Instagram and shared with #humblebeeinspired?
Hi Barb!
To tell you the truth I do not have an Instagram account, not just yet and I don’t use much the social media in general. But I might just open an account just to keep track of all of Marie’s great recipes and I will definitely shared with #humblebeeinspired!
Hi Stella!
I only really pop over to Instagram these days just to look and see what people are making Marie-inspired. It is quite jaw dropping to see some of the creativity of everyone! Some of the colour combos rock in the cosmetics whilst others have me so envious of their containers!
Is it possible to sub PEG 40 for the Polysorbate 80 in this recipe?
Good morning Sarah!
Did you take a look at the possible substitutions Marie mentions at the footer of the formula section if you don’t have Polysorbate 80? I wouldn’t suggest PEG 40 as a swap. If you have Olivem 300/PEG7, that could be a possible swap. Be sure to check out the encyclopedia, and this handy guide to swapping!
This is lovely! Do you have a recipe for a more oil to milk concept? Something that incorporates a surfactant like coco glucoside?
Check out oil gel to milk formula 🙂
Would the consistency of this allow for it to be used with a squeeze tube? Many thanks.
Definitely not, sadly.
hi marie,in my country are only polisorbate 60 and 20.how do you know which is for what? greetings from chile.
Generally speaking, 20 is better for solubilizing lighter oil-soluble things like essential oils, while 60/80 is more useful for heavier oil soluble things, like carrier oils 🙂
Hi Marie, i wanna try this recipe, can i blender oats into fine powder? to get colloidal oatmeal? because i looked up from your encyclopedia it can be substituted with panthenol, but i can’t find any of them in indonesia. 🙁
is it ok if i’m not using any bisabolol ?
Yup!
For this formulation that will work 🙂
WOW!!! I just finished making this and WOW!! It is sooo lovely. foams up more than I expected :)) and leaves my skin so soft. Big plus, is its so easy to make, just a little tricky getting the oat stirred in and poured before it sets up. Instead of lavender, I used some geranium absolute I had. Thank you so much, my new favorite facial cleanser.
YAY! I am so dang thrilled you’re loving it—I still love this cleansing balm as well ❤️ Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Sorry I don’t know how to create new comment. My question is, for a complete anhydrous balm if I wanted to add colloidal oatmeal. Do I need to add something like a emulsifier to keep the colloidal suspended in the oil. Please help. I’m trying to make a balm salve for my son’s eczema.
No, you don’t—emulsifiers don’t keep things suspended, thickeners do. In this formulation, it’s the stearic acid/cetyl alcohol keeping the clay + colloidal oatmeal suspended. Happy making!
I’ve made this receipt several times and I LOVE it!! Curious to know if there is a way I can get it to foam up a wee bit more, making a nice creamy fluffy foam?
FYI- love the book!!
Hello! I love cleansing balms for my skin! I was thinking giving it as a gift to my mom… but I have a question.
Cleansing balms help to remove makeup?
Thank you in advance! I really enjoy DIY with you!
Cleansing balms are great for removing makeup 🙂 Happy making!
I was wondering about adding a liquid ingredient to this. The directions say the emulsifying wax can emulsify 0.5% liquid germall. Can it emulsify about 5% liquid ingredient too? I would like to add white willow bark to my oil cleansing phase, but my extract is liquid. Buying the powder or oil version would cost 3x as much, so I wondered if the polawax would emulsify that much liquid, and if so, how it could be added.
It should work—check out my newest conditioner bar formulation for ideas on incorporating tiny amounts of water into otherwise hard, anhydrous things! Make sure you add a preservative as well 🙂 Happy making!
I can’t seem to get colloidal oatmeal where I live. Could I just leave it out? Perhaps increase the amount of kaolin clay to keep the proportions the same, or is there another ingredient that I could increase instead?
Whoops, I seem to have overlooked your comment in the substitutions about using a different clay in place of oats and/or kaolin, so i’ll give that a try! 🙂
This cleansing balm is perfect for a stick. I don’t know how he’ll do it when it’s hot – it’s winter here and my bathroom is cold – but right now he’s holding beautifully in a deodorant stick.
Great recipe, Marie, thank you!
I realize that once again I answered as a European. In my language, things are not gender neutral, which is why I write ‘he’ when I talk about a deodorant stick. I understand that this once again comes across as quite ridiculous 😉
So, the deodorant stick is ‘it’.
Please read it like this.
🙂
Thank you for sharing this insight! ❤️
Could you add or substitute ground walnut shells to make this a cleansing scrub?
I don’t recommend it—that’s a very aggressive level of exfoliation for the face. Take a look at this formulation instead 🙂
Thanks Marie, that’s a perfect formulation not sure how I missed it . Can’t wait to try it.
I was thinking of using calamine powder since it’s also very soothing an dsince I can get bisabol thinking of using chamomile infusion or chamomile oil
Sounds fun! Thanks for DIYing with me, and happy making 🙂
Hi Marie, is it a good idea to include 2-3 % glycerin in this formula?
No, as this is an entirely anhydrous formulation 🙂
hey marie!
so i’m not a fan of the colloidal oatmeal’s smell when heated, but i still want to include it. could i add it in after the heated phase right before the ice water bath?