Today we’re doing a thing that is long overdue—a Soothing Under Eye Gel! It’s part of our soothing series, and it is lovely. It’s also the first recipe I’m sharing using Aristoflex AVC, a very cool cold-process gelling agent and emulsifier that I’ve been working with for over three years now, but for some reason or another nothing has made it to the blog—until now!
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The bulk of this Soothing Under Eye Gel is refreshing, hydrating watery things. There’s some super moisturizing hyaluronic acid, some calming chamomile hydrosol, and some refreshing cucumber distillate. You’ll notice there’s no aloe, even though it would be fitting—aloe contains lots of electrolytes, and Aristoflex AVC + electrolytes = instant runny slime.
Propanediol helps further amp up the hydrating goodness of this gel, while panthenol brings regenerative, hydrating goodness. Some caffeine helps reduce puffiness, and calendula brings even more anti-inflammatory, skin-soothing goodness. I’ve included a touch of dimethicone 350 for two major reasons: firstly, it’s a good skin protectant and occlusive, but more importantly, I find it keeps this eye gel silky smooth. I find formulations that are mostly water tend to start to feel sticky really quickly—the dimethicone counters this with all kinds of super-slippy glidey goodness. If you are looking for a substitution, please read the substitutions list at the end of the recipe.
And now for the gelling magic—the Aristoflex AVC. We’ll sprinkle it over everything, blend it in, and watch the mixture turn into a silky smooth, thick gel in about a minute. It’s so freaking cool—you’re going to love it!
The finished gel is softly scented, silky and slippy, and ultra hydrating for that delicate skin around your eyes. The caffeine helps reduce puffiness and increase circulation, while the anti-inflammatory botanicals helps soothe the skin. Enjoy!
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Soothing Under Eye Gel
0.2g | 1% Propanediol 1,3 (USA / Canada)
0.2g | 1% panthenol powder (vitamin B5)
0.06g | 0.3% caffeine
0.1g | 0.5% calendula extract
0.4g | 2% dimethicone 350 (USA / Canada)
0.1g | 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus™ (USA / Canada)
Weigh the first four ingredients into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup or beaker and stir to combine. Add the next six ingredients and blend together until the powders have dissolved. The dimethicone won’t emulsify yet; that’s ok.
Sprinkle the Aristolflex AVC overtop and blend with a mini mixer or whisk until the entire mixture has thickened and emulsified. That’s it!
When made as written the pH of this gel is ~4.5. I would recommend checking yours and adjusting if necessary, especially if you make any changes.
To use, spread a small amount of the gel over your under-eye area.
Shelf Life & Storage
Because this gel contains water, you must include a broad-spectrum preservative to ward off microbial growth. This is non-optional. Even with a preservative this project is likely to eventually spoil as our kitchens are not sterile laboratories, so in the event you notice any change in colour, scent, or texture, chuck it out and make a fresh batch.
As always, be aware that making substitutions will change the final product. While these swaps won’t break the recipe, you will get a different final product than I did.
- As I’ve provided this recipe in percentages as well as grams you can easily calculate it to any size using a simple spreadsheet as I’ve explained in this post. As written in grams this recipe will make 20g.
- To learn more about the ingredients used in this recipe, including why they’re included and what you can substitute them with, please visit the Humblebee & Me Encyclopedia. It doesn’t have everything in it yet, but there’s lots of good information there!
- If you’re like to use a different preservative, please review this page.
- DO NOT substitute the Aristoflex AVC.
- Aristoflex AVC is very sensitive to electrolytes; do not add anything to this formula that contains electrolytes.
- The theme of this formula is soothing and hydrating; keep that in mind when choosing alternative ingredients.
- You can try different hydrosol(s) in place of the chamomile hydrosol, and/or cucumber distillate. Try to choose things that will smell nice together!
- I really, really don’t recommend dropping the hyaluronic acid.
- Panthenol is included for its humectant and skin-soothing properties. Read the encyclopedia post (linked in the previous sentence) for substitution ideas.
- You could use a different soothing/calming botanical extract in place of the calendula extract.
- Vegetable glycerin would work in place of propanediol.
- You could replace the caffeine with more water.
- You can replace the dimethicone with a natural silicone alternative like LuxGlide 350, or a very slippy oil. A non-silicone alternative will likely make the end product more sticky.