After years of DIYing, I’ve got a pretty good cache of acne-fighting ingredients. From clays to herbs to essential oils, my basement cupboards are a veritable arsenal of zit-busting weaponry, and these bars of soap have it all. They’re designed to clobber zits and stop acne before it starts. They’re also pretty groovy looking.
I no longer recommend using alkaline cleansers like soap or baking soda on your face; read this for more information.
The base recipe is my lightly tweaked all-in-one bar, just with a bit more beef tallow for a harder bar. From there I have added all the things (as Allie Brosh would say).
In the powders department, we have French green clay, zinc oxide, and activated charcoal. French green clay has been a long time friend and ally in my fight against zits, emptying out my pores and boosting healing in mask form. I love French green clay and would never, ever be without it.
Zinc oxide is one of the starring ingredients in my blackhead busting silver powder. It’s astringent, so it helps control oil on the skin, as well as boosting healing.
Activated charcoal is a potent detoxing powder, often employed in cases of food poisoning. It is also black, giving this soap its characteristic colour. I’ve included it for a pore-o-riffic detox.
In the herbs and plants corner, we’ve got soothing, healing aloe vera and some moisturizing, irritation-busting colloidal oatmeal (USA / Canada). Famous acne-busting sea buckthorn seed oil makes an appearance, and anti-bacterial, healing essential oils like tea tree and lavender round out the bars.
I’ve also done a cool swirly bit on the top by blending some mica with some liquid oil, drizzling it across the top of the loaf, and twirling it about with a toothpick. Cool, eh?
I no longer recommend using alkaline cleansers like soap or baking soda on your face; read this for more information.
Über Anti-Acne Soap
25% olive oil (pomace) (USA / Canada)
25% refined coconut oil (USA / Canada)
30% beef tallow or lard (why?)
15% unrefined shea butter (USA / Canada)
5% castor oil (USA / Canada)Calculate at 5% superfat
Per 500g (1.1lbs) of oils:
- 1 tsp sodium lactate (USA / Canada) (optional—hardens the bars)
- ¾ tsp activated charcoal
- ¾ tsp non-nano zinc oxide
- 1 tbsp French green clay
- 1½ tbsp colloidal oatmeal (USA / Canada) or ground oatmeal
- 1 pinch aloe vera 200x powder
- 1 tbsp sea buckthorn seed oil or sea buckthorn fruit oil
- 7g | 0.25oz peppermint essential oil (USA / Canada)
- 7g | 0.25oz lavender essential oil
- 16g | 0.53oz tea tree essential oil
- 1/16 tsp silver mica + 1 tsp liquid oil (optional—for the swirl on top)
Use SoapCalc to calculate your final amounts of oils, lye, and water based on the size of batch you want to make.
Follow my standard soap making instructions. If using, add the sodium lactate (USA / Canada) to the lye water after it has cooled and stir to combine. If you’re using the sodium lactate (USA / Canada) I strongly encourage you let your fats and lye water come to room temperate before combining. I haven’t tried using the sodium lactate (USA / Canada) above room temperature, but I did notice a much, much faster trace than I would usually get at room temperature, and it’ll only get faster at higher temperatures.
Once the soap has reached a reasonably thick trace, blend in the activated charcoal, zinc oxide, French green clay, oatmeal, aloe vera, and essential oils. Use an immersion blender here so you can be sure all the powdery clumps are broken up, giving you a smooth bar without lumps in it.
Pour the soap into your mould. Blend the silver mica and liquid oil together in a small dish and drizzle it over the soap. Use a toothpick to swirl, and then discard the toothpick.
Cover, lightly insulate, and let saponify for 24 hours before slicing. Age for at least 3–4 weeks before using. Enjoy!
Do you use non-nano or nano zinc oxide?
Always non-nano 🙂
What a wonderful recipe and great looking bar…
Thanks for all your info you give.
🙂
i would like to try the uber acne soap . tallow is listed as a fat. what is it other than a fat and where can i purchase it. thanks love the blog
Hi Susette! Tallow is rendered cow fat and it makes beautiful soap. You can learn more here and here 🙂
Looks like a super-soap! One question: Which coconut oil do you use in soap making? Soap Calc has 3 choices, 76 degrees, 92 degrees and fractionated.
I choose the 76° stuff—be sure to avoid fractionated, it has a different SAP value and functions differently in soap to boot 🙂
beautiful recipe! Thank you! What is unit of measure on colloidal oatmeal?
Thanks, Diana! And tbsp, good catch 🙂
I liking soap making too. But my soaps always appear DOS. Can you tell me how to avoid this ? Thanks !
What superfat are you using, and how are you storing your bars, Anita?
I usually surfat 5~6% and I will wrap my soaps with plastic paper after curing. I don’t think surfatting caused DOS in my soap because soaps that without surfatting same got DOS. I liking making soaps but DOS makes me frustrated. Thanks for sharing 🙂
By the way, your answer to me was few days ago but how come I can only got it just right now.
Marie, you are such a talent lady !
Hmm. I’d try ditching the plastic paper—that will trap in moisture and create a better environment for bacterial growth 🙂
me gustaria que siempre agregue la mezcla de lejia y agua.
I would like to always add the mixture of bleach and water.
I’m not sure if this is the translation not being quite accurate, but please don’t put bleach on your skin!
What is the oatmeal measurement?
Tablespoons 🙂
Hey Marie! This soap looks amazing (as does everything you do, ever). I was wondering if you had any ideas as to how I could make this soap into a scrub bar? Bad, bad things happen to my skin when I don’t exfoliate! Also, would it be possible to make a similar recipe as a liquid cleanser? Thanks; you da bomb!
Hi Heather! You could easily add something mildly scrubby to the soap bar to make it exfoliating—I really like ground up rice 🙂
For a liquid cleanser, you could add the anti-acne ingredients (so not the mica or sodium lactate) to a liquid soap paste as part of the softening process 🙂
O, I need this one! Thank you, Marie.
I love your swirls! Cool! I see you could tell me it’s addictive, eh?! 😉
Thanks, Iryna! I LOOOOOOVE swirls! 😀 Thanks for getting me hooked 😉
This sounds great. I’ve been meaning to make an anti-acne bar for one of my friends for ages now and have been umming and ahing over whether to use activated charcoal or a clay – for some reason I never considered using both 🙂
I’m wondering if I should still super fat the soap or whether this would be counter productive for oily skin?
I superfatted at 5% and would definitely recommend keeping it in there as a safety buffer, if nothing else 🙂
What percentage did you choose to superfat?
5% 🙂
Hi Marie,
I can’t wait to try this recipe for my friend’s teenaged daughters.
Can you please clarify whether the measurement on the colloidal oatmeal is in tsp or tblsp, although I suspect personal preference plays into it.
I usually use the Soap Calc super fatting default of 5% but i’m thinking that maybe I should drop it a tad because of the sea buckthorn oil added at trace?
Thanks! Kim
Hi Kim! I used 1.5 tbsp of the colloidal oatmeal, and a 5% superfat 🙂
Do you sell any of the item you make?
I don’t, sorry!
Yay! Thanks for sharing this! I have ordered the ingredients and can’t wait to make it! I wonder too about the oatmeal measurement, is it 1 1/2 teaspoons or tablespoons?
Tablespoons 🙂
To do this in your liquid soap, would one simply mix in the acne-busting additives to the softened soap paste? I love love love this idea! … but I’m nowhere near tackling bar soaps yet…
KM
Yup! I’d probably let it sit for a day and pass it through a fine sieve as well to ensure it’s smooth 🙂
Hi Marie!
Another great recipe I want to try. I was wondering if you have made a blog post about natural skin care? I have questions about toner. I was having acne problems and they almost cleared up entirely when I started using toner (and stopped touching my face with my hands). Do you have a post about complete facial skin care? Thanks in advance.
Hi Pamela! At this point the closest this I have is this older article on things my face likes 🙂 I have been meaning to do a more up to date article on my routine these days, though, so stay tuned!
do you by chance sell your items you make? This soap perhaps?
Many thanks
I don’t sell anything 🙂
Hi!
What a wonderful site you have here!!
I am wondering if you have a suggestion about which oil/oils I can use to substitute tallow or lard for… I really only want to use plant-based ingredients…. Thank you so much, and I very much look forward to your response!
Hi Cindy! I have an entire article on this 🙂
Are there any vegan alternatives to tallow?
I’ve written an entire article on it 🙂
Hi Marie,
I love tallow in my soaps. Unfortunately, I’m out. Could I substitute lard?
Thanks,
Heather
Hi Heather! You can use lard, it’ll be a touch softer, though, so you might want to age the bars for another week 🙂
Hi Marie!
Thank you for your inspiration! You totally got me hooked to this new realm of DIY cosmetic and soap! My oldest daughter just started having acne and I’m excited trying your recipes.
I was wondering about the tea tree oil: whenever I add it even in small amounts to anything it is really irritating to skin and eyes. Normally we don’t tend to being sensitive to anything ; therefor I am wondering if we have different tea tree oil here in Europe or if we indeed react to it? Especially this recipe contains a lot of it.
Hi Bianca,
I thought I’d just jump in here, I am really sensitive to it on my face, I can use it everywhere else just fine but even a little bit makes my face red, blotchy and itchy, so you may have the same problem. It is annoying as I have problem skin so you’d think Tea tree would be awesome, but for me it doesn’t work.
Thanks, Julia!
Hi Bianca! The tea tree oil I use is Melaleuca alternifolia, and it is completely possible that you are sensitive to it. For an alternative you can take a look at the other members of the Melaleuca family (though use caution, you may be sensitive to those as well), or the different varieties of eucalyptus 🙂
Hi,
Just wondering if you can think of any reason why this recipe would not work with a goat’s milk melt and pour soap base? Would I add any sodium lactate? Assuming I could just add all the additives in…charcoal, EOs, etc, and even do a swirl with the mica and liquid oil as well? What do you mean by “liquid oil, BTW? Just any liquid oil like olive, for example? Please excuse my ignorance, I am a newbie to soap making world. Am just hoping to use up a big brick of melt and pour first, before delving into cold processing. Thank you for all you share with us! I look forward to reading your posts each time! Best, Diana
I can’t think of why not. I probably wouldn’t add the sodium lactate since I imagine your base is formulated to be hard as is, but from there I’d just add all the additives I’ve used. And yes, I really do just mean any liquid oil 😛 Have fun!
Hi Marie,
If I don’t have tallow, can I sub lard for it? I don’t have palm either or seabuckthorn oil. Thank you.
Jolene
Hi Jolene! Lard will work instead of tallow, but you may want to add another week or two to your aging time as it is a bit softer than tallow. You can probably get away without the seabuckthorn oil, or perhaps consider rosehip oil as an alternative 🙂
Thanks Marie! I read through the comments and saw that someone had already asked about lard. Sorry for the repeat question. I don’t have rosehip either but I have camillia seed oil…maybe I will sub that. Thanks again!
Your blog is awesome!
🙂
Cool. Your formula is high in oleic acid, not lino(something)…or whatever. 😉 Anyone with acne-prone skin should use soaps higher in oleic. Regular soaps tend to be higher in the other, which can make acne worse. Those with problem skin need the oleic to balance and clear their skin and keep it clear.
Are you referring to linoleic verses linolenic fatty acids?
🙂
Thanks for the tip, Debbi! My general figuring was that the soap is barely on your skin and is rinsed off quite promptly, but my skin is not terribly acne prone, so for those who are, my skin is not a great proving ground 🙂
Does the Aloe Vera Powder need to be 200x? Or can I use the other powder form listed on Saffire Blue??
Well, it does it you want to get a potent aloe vera hit. You could use the other stuff, but you’ll be getting a far lower dose of aloe vera. I do see that SB has run out of the smaller amounts of the 200x stuff, though, so YIKES on the price! I would recommend just using pure aloe juice (not the food stuff from the grocery store or the green goo) instead of water 🙂
Could I use aloe vera gel instead of powder? I have everything except that. If I can, how much would you recommend? Thanks!
I wouldn’t recommend it unless it’s straight from the plant—the gel has lots of other stuff added to it that could react with the lye.
I have a bunch of aloe pants. Would it work to just press the gel strategy from the plant into my soap instead of getting the powder?
Hey Kristine! Normally I wouldn’t recommend using aloe pulp ’cause it’s super delicious bacteria food, but because this is a soap recipe, it should be ok—just blend it into your water part (keeping the weight of the water the same) before adding the lye 🙂
Hi Marie,
Could I use calcium lactate instead of sodium lactate?, I cant seem to find anyone that sells sodium lactate in my country 🙁
Thank you!
I wasn’t really able to find anything about using calcium lactate as an alternative to sodium lactate, so I’d just save your money and use neither 🙂
Hello!
This sounds amazing! I have been making homemade soap for a little over a year – just for homemade gifts. I love it! (However, mine doesn’t look so pretty LOL. I’m working on the presentation of the whole thing… 🙂 )
I would love to try this recipe for my daughter, who has terrible acne. Do you sell your soap? I would have to buy most all of the added ingredients so I thought I would just check to see if you have a soap shop somewhere online, rather than me buying all of the ingredients. I would love for my daughter to try it to see if she has any success with her skin.
Thank you!
Gina
Nevermind LOL. Sorry, just saw your FAQ and note above.
I’ll have to get an order placed and get to making this recipe!
Gina
Have fun!
Hi Gina! I don’t sell anything 🙂
Hi There,
I started looking into soap making about 3 months ago and thanks to your basic recipe I am thinking about making my first bar of scented soap. I stumbled across this and thought that it would be Excellent for my brothers Acne. Then I realised that acne treatments aggravated his eczema to the point where he looks like he’s been attacked by a giant Chicken.
My mother isn’t so hot when it comes to natural remedies so I know most of the ingredients in this soap have not been tried for him (although I do beleive that I bought him some skin cream with charcoal in it once).
But I digress, this a really long way of asking if this soap would Aggravate his eczema?
Hi Beth! It is really impossible for me to say, it sounds like your brother has quite sensitive skin. That said, I’ve been doing some experimenting with adding evening primrose oil to my skincare, and I’ve found it to be amazing for acne (in just 2 weeks!), and it’s also supposed to be wonderful for eczema because of its Linoleic and Gamma Linolenic Acid content. Read this, it’s very informative 🙂 Good luck!
Hi Marie,
Great place this. Like you I DIY, but mostly carpentry and photography, so I’m new to the soapmaking. Mostly it seems pretty straightforward, particularly with soapcalc, but thanks for your super friendly advice and recipes. One thing puzzles me and that is the coconut oil designations. Am I correct in thinking that the 76 deg designation is a melting point? Thing is when I’m buying the coconut oil none of the products I’ve looked at have this stated on the packaging. How do I know I’m buying what I want without actually buying it and melting it to see what temperature that happens at? Or am I missing something gloriously simple here?
Hi Graham! Normal coconut oil will melt around 24°C, which is ~76°F, so that’s the one you want. 92°F coconut oil has been hydrogenated, hence the higher melting point, but I’ve never seen it for sale. I’d say if you don’t see “hydrogenated” anywhere on the package it’s the 24°C stuff 🙂
So I’m a little newer to soap making so I apologize ahead of time because I am also not amazing with math. My question is when it says per 500grams of oil how do you calculate out the amount of each you need? Im used to measuring it out with a scale. Thank you.
Hi Matt! It’s just a simple ratio. If you calculate the recipe with 500g of oils (using something like SoapCalc), then you’ll need the ingredients in the quantity listed per 500g (1 tsp sodium lactate, etc). If you were making a 1000g batch, you’d double that (2 tsp sodium lactate, etc.). If you were making a 750g batch, it would be x1.5 (1.5 tsp sodium lactate, etc.). Most of the amounts are in volume as they are quite small and no everybody has a scale that’s accurate below 1 or 2 grams.
Hi Marie !
this looks so AMAZING !!
I finally drummed up the courage to try something so complicated.
however i dont quite understand the lye calculation.
– on the site you provided, is number 3 ( water as % of oils) is that always a default number? ( i entered 0% – is that right?)
– after entering the recipe oil list (6), for 500g of oil, the “NaOH SAP” ( 0.128 – what is this number?) 70.31 is the amount of lye i am suppose to use? and it is in grams and before dissolved in water?
Im so lost … haha
Hey Annie! I always use the default number for water as a % of oils; it should be 38, definitely not 0!
The SAP value basically reflects how much lye you need to convert the blend of oils you’ve specified into soap, but represented in a way that’s not terribly apparent. Ignore it, basically 😛
The lye measurement will be presented in several units, so it might be grams; check and see what the calculator says. And it’s ALWAYS pure lye and pure ingredients—think about cooking; no recipe that calls for 1 tsp of salt would assume you’d mixed that salt with water first and then added a tsp of that salty water 🙂
Hi Marie,
This recipe looks fantastic! I was wondering if Neem oil would be an acceptable substitute for seabuckthorn? I saw in another comment that you suggested rosehip seed oil, which sounded good but Neem is a pretty commonly used anti acne oil where my family is from…do you think it would behave in this soap?
Yup, it should work—and the smell shouldn’t come through in such a small amount, either 😉
Hi Marie!! *waves from Lloydminster* I don’t have access to tallow….would lard be a good substitute? And can I use kaolin clay instead of french clay? (just building up my supplies, so I don’t have any on hand) Thanks!
Hey Karstan! Both of those are great swaps 🙂 You’ll find the lard soap to be slightly softer than tallow soap, but not in any way that’ll noticeably impact the final product 🙂 Happy soaping!
Have you thought about putting eucalyptus oil in this soap bar? Eucalyptus has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. It’s quite commonly used to get rid of acne here in Australia at least. You might want to look into it anyway.
I’ve used eucalyptus in many soaps before, and you could certainly try replacing the tea tree oil in this recipe with eucalyptus if you wanted to. As I’m sure you know there are hundreds and hundreds of ingredients that are said to be helpful in fighting acne in one way or another, and packing them all into a single bar of soap seems a bit insane 😛
Hello,
where could i get these ingredients. If i lived in Canada,vancouver
Hey Emily! I’m Canadian, too (Calgary represent!) so these ingredients are definitely easily available in Canada 🙂 Shopping online is your best option for the best prices; check out my big list of places to shop here. These guys are pretty close to you and many BC readers recommend them.
thank you ！！！
A great supplier that is in BC is https://www.voyageursoapandcandle.com
I would like to make this soap, however, I only have these additives…
activated charcoal
non-nano zinc oxide
French green clay
colloidal oatmeal or ground oatmeal
lavender essential oil
tea tree essential oil
How do I calculate for 30 oz of oils?
Hey Beth! The amounts of additives are specified for 500g, which is about 17oz, so you will just have to scale accordingly. That would be, approximately, a scant 2x. So if the recipe calls for 1 tbsp (3 tsp) of something for 500g of oils, you’d probably want to use 5 tsp. Hope that helps!
This soap caught my eye because of it’s beautiful, dark color and it’s anti-acne properties. I was so excited to make it! Unfortunately, mine doesn’t look at all like yours. I can still use it, of course, but it’s not pretty at all 🙁 Mine came out to be more of a muddy sage green color and is not a dark, black-ish forest green color like yours. The soap also stained my silicone mold (I think because of the seabuckthorn oil). I followed the recipe exactly except I substituted palm oil for the tallow. Do you think that could have caused it? Do you think it would be okay to decrease the amount of seabuckthorn oil and increase the amount of activated charcoal? I want mine to be prettier so I can give them to friends and family as gifts. Any advice would be great. Thank you!!!
Hey Corinne! Seabuckthorn oil can vary a lot in terms of strength—mine’s pretty mild, but I’ve heard from readers that the tiniest amounts can stain skin! So yes, go ahead and decrease the amount of that—I’d bet that’s why yours is a different colour, too. You can use more charcoal, just be careful not to overdo it or you might get staining from that instead!
Hi Marie,
I seem to have been able to find or have all the ingredients except the aloe vera powder. Could you be able to tell me who has it? I did fine one company that has the 100x powder. Would ha work in the 200x place? Thanks!
The 100x will work—just use twice as much 🙂
Hi Marie
I have sea buckthorn extract. How can I use this instead the oil.
I bought it from NDA.
act
I would probably use 2tsp of the powdered extract instead of the oil. This swap really wouldn’t work in anything other than a soap recipe (sort of like using almonds instead of almond oil), but soap is very forgiving 🙂
Thanks again for replying. Great that I can substitute it in making soap. I used my first bottle of sea buckthorn EO in a soap batch and didn’t realize that it called for so much. It’s expensive so I ordered the extract. So glad that I can use it for some recipes.
Rose
I’m sure you’ll have lots of fun with it! Try it infused in toners or added to face masks as well 🙂
Hi Marie. I made this with the sea buckthorn extract two days ago. There are brown spots on my soap. I think it’s from the extract. I didn’t make a tincture from it. Do you think it will be ok? Or is it a throw away?
Hope you have good news.
Thanks Rose
Hey Rose! Did you use an immersion blender to thoroughly incorporate the powdered extract? Basically, I’m asking if the spots are just clumps of powder.
Hello,
Beautiful soap!!!!!
Can I be able to do it as a hot oil soap? Probably by discounting some water? Thanks
Charity
Hey Charity! I’m not sure what hot oil soap is—is it the same as hot process? In any event, I do not make either, so I’m not a great resource for that sort of thing. Sorry!
Hi! I’m really excited to try this recipe out! But I have a few questions. Do you think that upping the additives so that I’m adding 1tbsp of bentonite clay and 1tbps of kaolin along with 2tsp of activated charcoal be okay? Would it affect the curing of the soap? I have been making mp soap and soaps with heaps of activated charcoal has been a miracle to my skin! Also, would palm oil be okay? I am planning on ordering a bucket so I just wanna check. Last question! I have read on some forums that sodium lactate only quickens the saponification process and make the bar harder until it is cured. And then after it has fully cured, I read that the sodium lactate doesn’t actually change the hardness of the bar (so same as a non-sodium lactate bar) Would you consider this to be true? My supplier only carries masses of sodium lactate and really its just too expensive if I’m only making soap for myself. I would love to hear a reply. Thanks!
Hey Laura! Did you read the note above the recipe and the associated linked post? I really, really don’t recommend making this if you are suffering from acne; scientific studies show it will exacerbate the issue!
I just read the article. It’s a shame that cp soap shouldn’t be used on the skin… Do you think that making liquid soap or one of your facial cleanser recipes then correcting the pH would be better? My skin is totally in love with activated charcoal and I am drying to make one that I can alter to my skin!
Liquid soap is just as basic (if not moreso, due to the preference to avoid superfat) as CP soap, so it is just as bad or worse. If you want lather, you’ll want a surfactant powered cleanser as those can be pH adjusted, and sometimes don’t need to be depending on the blend you use. Check out this cleanser for an idea of what I mean 🙂
hello.. the soap looks wonderful. Can you please tell me a substitute for tallow or lard?
Please read this 🙂
I made this recipe the other day and I am really excited about it but it’s been 2 days and it’s still too soft to cut without it smearing. I substituted Lard for the tallow. Is that why and when would you recommend cutting?
Just wait until it’s hard enough to slice; I didn’t encounter this at all so that’s the best advice I can give, sorry!
Hi Marie, I see that you no longer recommend this soap for your face – do you feel this way about body soap as well? Or what are your opinions on this? Thanks!
I’ve discussed this towards the end of this post 🙂 That said, I haven’t been using any soap on my body this winter as I’m testing so many different body washes and syndet things, and I do think my skin is happier for it. Definitely do what works for you, though! I know loads of people happily use soap for all kinds of things and their skin is very happy 🙂
Hello Marrie,
this link may help you about argument on pH level. I believe Natural cold process soap is much healthier to use rather than sythetic detergents.
https://www.chagrinvalleysoapandsalve.com/blog/posts/what-is-ph-balanced-skin-care/
hope this one helps.:)
I would invite you to review all the scientific papers I reference and source in my post, and compare them to all the references in that post (not the links to more articles on the same website, written by a person who makes their living selling soap). If you can’t get past the pay walls use Sci-Hub to gain full access.
That post is written with an extremely clear bias towards natural products—their natural products. The ones the author makes money selling.
I don’t really care what you use; I continue to share recipes for both traditional soap and syndet products. I don’t profit off of one any more than the other.
The science is pretty clear. Mildly acidic cleansers are better suited to our skin. I’ve linked to plenty of papers that have come to the same conclusion. Please read them with an open mind 🙂
That said—use whatever you want. Use what makes your skin happy. I know soap works well for many people, despite the science findings that it shouldn’t. But don’t blindly use natural products just because you believe they are healthier, either. What, after all, is natural about NaOH—a completely synthesized (the “lye” derived from ashes is not NaOH) and highly caustic chemical?
And what about those cleansers that has ingredients that I cannot even pronounce properly? Sounds suspicious. They can even strips skin’s natural Even water has a pH 7. So after washing a “pH balanced cleanser”, then rinse it with a pH 7 water. Did it make any difference? There are no Lye in Soap (Sodium Hydroxide) because its been converted into a Soap with Fatty Acid right? Theres no longer Oil and Lye remaining in it. Plus, humans has been using soaps for a thousands of years using ashes and natural oils and butters. Thousands of years before those syndets has been created. Soap is even mentioned in the Bible few times. I might be wrong, You might be wrong. Whatever. Our skin is Unique, Our body is Unique. Skin’s pH will be back in just few minutes. Just like a bleaching product, if we stop using it, our skin tone will be back to its original color. Soap made with simple ingredients: Natural Fats + Water + Lye = Soap. That’s it.
It’s your skin—feel free to use whatever you like 🙂
hey ! i wanted to ask. i got a very nice bar a soap that i knew the ingredients and it heal my face that any other soap couldn’t! since you are so experienced, can you please help me to figure the ratio out? it contains activated charcoal, menthol, peppermint oil, castor oil, palm oil, olive oil and coconut oil. but i just dont know what’s the ratio…it’s a miracle soap ! please help me outtttt
I’m afraid I can’t, sorry! There are just way too many variables—it’s a bit like me giving you a list of vegetables and saying I had the best ever salad using them, and can you re-create it? Sorry!