| What is it? |
Alkanet root is used as a dye, typically through infusion. It is usually sold in powdered/ground or chopped form. The colour varies with pH; it is a ruby colour around pH 6, purple around pH 9, and blue around pH 10. |
| INCI |
Alkanna Tinctona Root |
| Appearance |
Dark, slightly purple powder or small flakey chunks. |
| Usage rate |
Infuse in oil until desired colour is reached. |
| Scent |
Tangy/musty. |
| Solubility |
The colour infuses well in oil; solid matter is typically strained out before the coloured oil is used. |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
As a colourant. In cold processed soap it lends a dusty purple hue. Infused in oils for balms and butters it gives a ruby-plum colour. |
| Do you need it? |
No |
| Strengths |
Stable in soap, beautiful botanical colourant. |
| Weaknesses |
Not particularly potent, so not very useful for coloured cosmetics. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
A coloured mica that is approximately the desired colour is a good alternative, though it will add shimmer. You can also look at pigments like ultramarines, which are available in purples and blues. |
| How to Work with It |
Infuse alkanet root in oil until the desired colour is reached, strain, and then use the oil. I’d start with a 1:10 to 1:20 (by weight) infusion ratio. If you’re using the powder you can add it straight to soap batter, where it will add a bit of a dark speckle-y look and some mild exfoliation, depending on the amount used. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, alkanet root should last three years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
Alkanet root shifts colour with pH, from ruby to blue as it gets more basic. |
| Recommended starter amount |
30g (1oz) |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier—shops focussed on soap supplies are more likely to carry it. |
Alkanet Root
Originally published on December 12, 2018