Penstia™ powder

What is it? Penstia™ powder is a white powder additive for our emulsions and makeup to improve slip and feel.
INCI Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer
Appearance Clumpy white powder
Usage rate 3–5%
Scent None
Solubility Insoluble
Why do we use it in formulations? Penstia™ powder makes our products feel more luxurious and higher end—it almost feels a bit like cheating! It adds a silky, creamy feel to emulsions and makeup. It is made up of porous spheres that roll across the skin on application, giving excellent slip. It also helps reduce sensations of tackiness and greasy/oiliness.
Do you need it? No, it’s definitely a luxury ingredient.
Strengths Stunning skin feel!
Weaknesses Poor availability outside North America.
Alternatives & Substitutions There’s nothing that’s quite like Penstia™ powder so it can be a bit tricky to substitute. If you’re looking to improve the slip of a recipe you could try including 1% dimethicone 350 to the oil phase. If you don’t have Penstia™ powder you can generally leave it out without drastically impacting the recipe. In a lotion you can substitute Penstia™ powder with more water. In a cosmetics you could replace it with more sericite mica.
How to Work with It In emulsions, include it in the cool down phase. It is not heat sensitive (so you could add it at the same time you combine your heated phases if you like), but it will not melt in the oil phase or dissolve in water, and that can be a bit disconcerting if you’re waiting for it to dissolve.
Storage & Shelf Life Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Penstia™ powder should last 1.5–2 years.
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks Try incorporating Penstia™ powder into anything you find sticky!
Recommended starter amount 30g (1oz)
Where to Buy it  Buy it from Windy Point (Canada) or Lotion Crafter (USA).

Some Formulations that Use Penstia™ powder


Posted on

December 2, 2018