Penstia™ powder

What is it?

Penstia™ powder is a white powder additive for our emulsions, body butters, and makeup to improve slip and feel.

INCI

Adipic Acid/Neopentyl Glycol Crosspolymer

Appearance

Clumpy white powder

Usage rate

3–5%

Scent

None

Solubility

Insoluble

Why do we use it in formulations?

Penstia™ powder makes our products feel more luxurious and higher end—it almost feels a bit like cheating! It adds a silky, creamy feel to emulsions and makeup. It is made up of porous spheres that roll across the skin on application, giving excellent slip. It also helps reduce sensations of tackiness and greasy/oiliness.

Do you need it?

No, it’s definitely a luxury ingredient.

Strengths

Stunning skin feel!

Weaknesses

Poor availability.

Alternatives & Substitutions Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane (DryFlo TS) or polymethylsilsesquioxane (PMSQ) could be good alternatives; both are slippy, luxurious-feeling powders that offer blurring.

If you’re looking to improve the slip of a recipe you could try including 1% dimethicone 350 to the oil phase.

If you don’t have Penstia™ powder you can generally leave it out without drastically impacting the recipe. In a lotion you can substitute Penstia™ powder with more water. In a cosmetics you could replace it with more sericite mica.

How to Work with It

In emulsions, include it in the cool down phase. It is not heat sensitive (so you could add it at the same time you combine your heated phases if you like), but it will not melt in the oil phase or dissolve in water, and that can be a bit disconcerting if you’re waiting for it to dissolve.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, Penstia™ powder should last 1.5–2 years.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

Try incorporating Penstia™ powder into anything you find sticky!

Recommended starter amount

30g (1oz)

Where to Buy it

 As of late 2025, both Lotion Crafter & Windy Point have discontinued Penstia™ powder (sob). The only place I’ve found it for sale is now My Skin Recipes.

Some Formulations that Use Penstia™ powder

Originally published on December 2, 2018