| What is it? |
St. John’s Wort is a flowering plant with a long history of use for treating depression as well as topical use for its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. |
| INCI |
Hypericum Perforatum (the part of the plant used and format is also noted, i.e. flower/stem/root, extract/macerated oil/distillate, etc.) |
| Appearance |
The plant has small, star-shaped yellow blossoms. An infused oil should be a deep red colour, indicating high hypericin content. |
| Usage rate |
This varies with the format (macerated oil, powdered extract, hydrosol, etc.). Check with your supplier. |
| Scent |
Herbal/botanical |
| Solubility |
This depends on the format. The petals themselves are insoluble, but you can also purchase calendula hydrosol (water soluble) and calendula extracts (oil or water soluble). |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
We use extracts of St. John’s Wort in our skin care products to harness its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. These properties make it especially useful in salves and balms. |
| Do you need it? |
No |
| Refined or unrefined? |
Either—both the dried plant matter and more refined extracts have their uses. I have both the dried petals and a water soluble extract and both are useful in different projects. |
| Strengths |
A good botanical source of anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. |
| Weaknesses |
As with all botanicals, allergic reactions are a possibility. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
A different herb (or blend of herbs) with anti-inflammatory/antimicrobial properties (chamomile, calendula) would be a good place to start. |
| How to Work with It |
This varies with the format; check with your supplier. Generally speaking, extracts go in the cool down phase of recipes. Check the solubility of whatever you have to ensure it is miscible with the formula. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, the dried plant matter will last approximately two years. Check with your supplier for specific extracts and infusions as there is quite a lot of variety. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
St. John’s Wort is poisonous to livestock. Taking St. John’s Wort internally can conflict with many medicines, including antidepressants. Be sure to check with your physician before taking St. John’s Wort. |
| Recommended starter amount |
50–100g (1.76–3.3oz) for the dry herb. 30mL (1fl oz) for the liquid extract. 250mL (8fl oz) for a pre-made infused oil. |
| Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |
St. John’s Wort
Originally published on March 18, 2019