Cera Bellina

What is it?

Cera bellina is a modified beeswax (“the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerols esters“) that thickens oils and butters into very cool, glide-y oil gels.

INCI

Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax

Appearance

Small off-white pellets/beads

Usage rate

This really depends on what you want to make. I did an experiment using it at different levels that you can review here. You aren’t likely to need more than 30% cera bellina in products.

Texture

Creates rich, slippy oil gels.

Scent

Nothing noticeable

Absorbency Speed

Quite slow

Approximate Melting Point

63–73ºC (145–163°F)

Solubility

Oil

Why do we use it in formulations?

Cera bellina does a few very cool things! Its primary use is as a thickener/solidifier, creating very smooth, slippy oil gels. It also helps with pigment distribution, reduces sweating in solid balms, and can function as a co-emulsifier. I love using it to create ointments and lip glosses, where it thickens and gives a beautiful gel consistency that is really well suited to those types of products.

Do you need it?

No, but I would recommend it if you are especially fond of ointments or lip gloss.

Refined or unrefined?

It only exists as a refined product.

Strengths

Creates very cool, smooth oil gels.

Weaknesses

Not vegan, harder to acquire than most waxes.

Alternatives & Substitutions

Nothing really works the same way as cera bellina; you can try using beeswax instead, but you won’t get the oil gel effect.

How to Work with It

Include cera bellina in your heated oil phase; it must be melted to use. Products made with it can feel quite greasy, so I’d recommend shifting your oil balance towards faster absorbing oils.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, cera bellina should last at least two years.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

The inclusion of cera bellina in your formulas can help prevent graininess in butters like shea butter.

Recommended starter amount

100g (3.3oz)

Where to Buy it

Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier.

Some Formulations that Use Cera Bellina

Originally published on January 14, 2019