What is it? |
Cera bellina is a modified beeswax (“the free fatty acids have been converted to polyglycerols esters“) that thickens oils and butters into very cool, glide-y oil gels. |
INCI |
Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax |
Appearance |
Small off-white pellets/beads |
Usage rate |
This really depends on what you want to make. I did an experiment using it at different levels that you can review here. You aren’t likely to need more than 30% cera bellina in products. |
Texture |
Creates rich, slippy oil gels. |
Scent |
Nothing noticeable |
Absorbency Speed |
Quite slow |
Approximate Melting Point |
63–73ºC (145–163°F) |
Solubility |
Oil |
Why do we use it in formulations? |
Cera bellina does a few very cool things! Its primary use is as a thickener/solidifier, creating very smooth, slippy oil gels. It also helps with pigment distribution, reduces sweating in solid balms, and can function as a co-emulsifier. I love using it to create ointments and lip glosses, where it thickens and gives a beautiful gel consistency that is really well suited to those types of products. |
Do you need it? |
No, but I would recommend it if you are especially fond of ointments or lip gloss. |
Refined or unrefined? |
It only exists as a refined product. |
Strengths |
Creates very cool, smooth oil gels. |
Weaknesses |
Not vegan, harder to acquire than most waxes. |
Alternatives & Substitutions |
Nothing really works the same way as cera bellina; you can try using beeswax instead, but you won’t get the oil gel effect. |
How to Work with It |
Include cera bellina in your heated oil phase; it must be melted to use. Products made with it can feel quite greasy, so I’d recommend shifting your oil balance towards faster absorbing oils. |
Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, cera bellina should last at least two years. |
Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
The inclusion of cera bellina in your formulas can help prevent graininess in butters like shea butter. |
Recommended starter amount |
100g (3.3oz) |
Where to Buy it |
Buy it from an online DIY ingredient supplier or Amazon. |