| What is it? |
The refined waxy substance removed/expressed from sheep’s wool. |
| INCI |
Lanolin |
| Appearance |
Unrefined lanolin has a thick, yellow ointment-like (semi-transluscent) pastey goo. HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin is white and thinner/softer than unrefined lanolin. |
| Usage rate |
Up to 100% |
| Texture |
Thick, greasy, sticky |
| Scent |
Unrefined lanolin smells heavy, oily, sort of musty—typically described as “characteristic”. It’s not a smell I like at all, and it will come through in your projects (even at low levels) and make them stink. HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin doesn’t smell like anything, and it’s definitely what I prefer! |
| Absorbency Speed |
Slow |
| Approximate Melting Point |
40°C (104°F) |
| Solubility |
Oil |
| Why do we use it in formulations? |
Lanolin is a wonderful skin protectant, moisturizer, softener, and occlusive. I enjoy including it in products where an ointment-y consistency is needed. |
| Do you need it? |
No |
| Refined or unrefined? |
You’ll typically find Lanolin Anhydrous USP (United States Pharmacopeia grade), and that stuff is good, but it typically smells bad and that smell (and taste) can come through in our formulations if you use much more than 5%. I highly recommend picking up some HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin (USA / Canada / UK / Aus / NZ); I find it’s much more versatile because we aren’t limited by its smell! |
| Strengths |
It’s an excellent moisturizer and helps boost skin barrier repair. |
| Weaknesses |
The smell of unrefined lanolin can be unpleasant, it isn’t vegan, it can be sticky. |
| Alternatives & Substitutions |
Pomegranate sterols are a great vegan alternative—similarly sticky, rich, and gooey. I’ve also heard that the orange wax sold by Shay & Co is a good lanolin alternative, though I haven’t tried it myself. Their orange wax is very different from the orange wax I’ve used, so don’t assume every orange wax will work similarly! |
| How to Work with It |
Include in your heated oil phase or cold blend into anhydrous products—it does not need to be melted, but can be. |
| Storage & Shelf Life |
Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, it should last 1.5–2 years. |
| Tips, Tricks, and Quirks |
It can hold up to 50% its weight in water! |
| Recommended starter amount |
100g (3.3oz) or less (think about how much you like greasy stuff!) |
| Where to Buy it |
Unrefined lanolin is easy to source at online DIY ingredient suppliers. If you want HPA (highly purified anhydrous) you’ll likely need to purchase it from the drug store. Check the baby aisle; it’s often sold as breastfeeding ointment (I use Lansinoh brand). |
Some Formulations that Use Lanolin
- Extra Creamy, Extra Minty Lip Balm
- Creamy Overnight Lip Mask
- Hot Chocolate Lip Butter
- Peppermint Beeswax Lip Balm
- Candlelight Lip Butter with Hyaluronic Acid
- Creamy Almond Lip Balm
- Almond & Olive Creamy Lip Balm
- Nourishing Lip Mask
- Watermelon Mint Cuticle & Lip Butter
- Soothing Hand Butter
- Moisturizing Overnight Lip Mask
- Mom’s Creamsicle Hand and Body Lotion
- Chamomile Winter Hand Butter
- Protective Pooch Paw Wax