Lanolin

What is it?

The refined waxy substance removed/expressed from sheep’s wool.

INCI

Lanolin

Appearance

Unrefined lanolin has a thick, yellow ointment-like (semi-transluscent) pastey goo.

HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin is white and thinner/softer than unrefined lanolin.

Usage rate

Up to 100%

Texture

Thick, greasy, sticky

Scent

Unrefined lanolin smells heavy, oily, sort of musty—typically described as “characteristic”. It’s not a smell I like at all, and it will come through in your projects (even at low levels) and make them stink.

HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin doesn’t smell like anything, and it’s definitely what I prefer!

Absorbency Speed

Slow

Approximate Melting Point

40°C (104°F)

Solubility

Oil

Why do we use it in formulations?

Lanolin is a wonderful skin protectant, moisturizer, softener, and occlusive. I enjoy including it in products where an ointment-y consistency is needed.

Do you need it?

No

Refined or unrefined?

You’ll typically find Lanolin Anhydrous USP (United States Pharmacopeia grade), and that stuff is good, but it typically smells bad and that smell (and taste) can come through in our formulations if you use much more than 5%.

I highly recommend picking up some HPA (highly purified anhydrous) lanolin (USA / Canada / UK / Aus / NZ); I find it’s much more versatile because we aren’t limited by its smell!

Strengths

It’s an excellent moisturizer and helps boost skin barrier repair.

Weaknesses

The smell of unrefined lanolin can be unpleasant, it isn’t vegan, it can be sticky.

Alternatives & Substitutions

Pomegranate sterols are a great vegan alternative—similarly sticky, rich, and gooey.

I’ve also heard that the orange wax sold by Shay & Co is a good lanolin alternative, though I haven’t tried it myself. Their orange wax is very different from the orange wax I’ve used, so don’t assume every orange wax will work similarly!

How to Work with It

Include in your heated oil phase or cold blend into anhydrous products—it does not need to be melted, but can be.

Storage & Shelf Life

Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, it should last 1.5–2 years.

Tips, Tricks, and Quirks

It can hold up to 50% its weight in water!

Recommended starter amount

 100g (3.3oz) or less (think about how much you like greasy stuff!)

Where to Buy it

 Unrefined lanolin is easy to source at online DIY ingredient suppliers.

If you want HPA (highly purified anhydrous) you’ll likely need to purchase it from the drug store. Check the baby aisle; it’s often sold as breastfeeding ointment (I use Lansinoh brand).

Some Formulations that Use Lanolin

Originally published on November 21, 2018